Three years ago I decided to go backpacking through Okayama for the main purpose of visiting Washuzan Highland so I could ride the infamous pedal-powered roller coaster of terror through the sky, but I got sideswept into come crazy adventures in the city before I even made it there. Some of these are too good not to share so I’m writing this story in three separate articles.
It all started while I was walking from Okayama Station to Jiyuu Kuukan, the net cafe where I was staying for the night because I didn’t have much money, when a Japanese guy around my age started talking me up. Unlike most people I encounter in this type of situation, he wasn’t trying to hit on me (or at least he didn’t make it obvious). He invited me out for drinks because he was taking the TOEIC [English proficiency exam] soon and wanted to practice his English. He also noted that it was quite rare to see solo woman travelers here in Okayama, but I get that a lot wherever I travel. It doesn’t really phase me at all. I agreed to go out for drinks with him because well, I love drinking!
I didn’t really teach him much English because I don’t consider myself qualified (despite being an English teacher previously), but I did answer his questions and make him feel more confident. He informed me he worked at a car company nearby in Kurashiki; a place in Okayama that I had planned on visiting. In return for my English lesson (if you could call it that), he offered to drive me around Okayama since many parts of the prefecture are difficult to reach by just using the trains. So the next day I hit him up with a series of destinations I had come up with. Buckle up because this is a crazy ride!
Le Soleil Patisserie
My favorite dessert place in Okayama is hands down Le Soleil. Their double-layered cheese cake (literally called double cheese cake) is the best cheese cake I’ve ever had in my life. The whipped cream on top is immense, but not overpowering. It melts like butter in your mouth. They have tons of other delicious sweets and pastries available too. What originally inspired me to come here was banvox’s birthday post:
He originally used to reside in or near Okayama so the chefs of Le Soleil sent him this giant cheese cake. Since you can’t order this specific cheese cake in Tokyo, I made it a mission to try it here. The bakery is conveniently on the way to Kurashiki so it’s easy to stop here even if you don’t have a car (though it may be a bit of walk, it’s not too far).
88-3 Nakaobie, Kurashiki, Okayama 710-0013
Kurashiki is the beautiful canal town of Okayama with a European aesthetic and design. You can go for canal rides and browse the traditional shops that line the riverbed. There are beautiful buildings covered with ivy in the Ivy Square and the Ohara Museum, which is the oldest Western art museum in Japan. I didn’t have time to check everything out but I did manage to take some awesome photos. Being here was extremely relaxing.
While I was here, I convinced my friend try the local dish, takomeshi, with me. Despite being an Okayama native, he had never tried it before. This consists of chopped octopus with rice and is very delicious! I forget the name of the restaurant we went to, but most seafood restaurants will have it or some kind of variation.
Kurashiki Station is only 15 mins and 330 yen from Okayama Station (no car needed).
My friend asked me if I wanted to go to a hotspring, and I said sure, why not! Yubara Onsen is probably the most unique onsen I’ve been to because it’s outdoors, mix-gender, and open 24/7. Plus it’s completely free unless you need to rent towels or swimwear. The hotsprings are remote and secluded enough to where it pretty much has developed its own nudist culture. Of course you can choose to wear swimwear, but be aware that many people will bathe naked. Though once you start soaking in the hotspring, you completely forget about the other people and focus on the nature around you. The backdrop of the mountains and the dam is simply breathtaking. This was the first time I had ever bathed naked in a mixed hotspring but I felt very safe and welcome.
Yubara Onsen is about an hour away from Okayama City by car, and 2 hours by bus (for 2600 yen one way). Since the onsen is free, this is not a bad price to pay.
Makido Rainbow Caves
After a relaxing trip to the onsen, my friend and I decided to end the day with a trip to some psychedelic rainbow caves. I’m not making this up. I’ve been to caves all over Japan, Thailand, and Vietnam, but I’ve never seen any cave as colorful as the Makido Caves in Okayama. These look like something straight out of a Final Fantasy game:
They nickname this place the “Dream Palace” for a good reason. Makido is a limestone cave brought to life with carefully placed illuminated lights. These lights bring out the colors and beauty of the cave and make it a very fun place to explore.
For those who are looking for a more normal cave experience, Makido has you covered. You can find a non-illuminated section of the cave by following the main route. They have an area where you can throw coins into the lake for good luck:
It takes about 30-40 minutes to see everything here. We walked around the cave twice so we could watch all of the changing illuminations.
2276-2, Toyonagaakouma, Niimi City, Okayama Prefecture
This cave takes about 1.5 hours to reach from Okayama City. Some of the roads are quite narrow so it takes a lot of concentration to navigate (fortunately I was with an experienced driver). If you are going by train, you must first take the Hakubi Line to Niima Station then take a bus to get here which takes around 2.5 hours and is 2000 yen.
I could not wrap my head around how amazing this day was. We had managed to see so many things and I felt extremely grateful for this experience. I owe it all to my friend who drove me around! Unfortunately I lost contact with him after this trip, but I sincerely am thankful for his kindness and hope he passed his English exam.
Here is a video I took in 2017 on Snapchat to commemorate my hitch-hiking experience. I remember playing all of my favorite Nakata Yasutaka-produced songs for my driver: