Meditating in the House of Light (Hikari no Yakata) by James Turrell

*At the House of Light, you can experience an indoor neon sensation that contrasts with the outdoor lighting displaying a tatami room of art.*

Recently due to the chilling winter season, I’ve been on a hot spring tour across Japan during my free weekends. Last month I visited the Tengu Onsen of Tochigi for a unique experience like no other, and this month I decided to visit House of Light (Hikari no Yakata in Japanese) for another one of a kind experience. House of Light, invented by American artist James Turrell, is a “meditation house” designed with traditional tatami rooms and fiber optic lighting to transmit light from natural sources. Both the rooms and the private onsen, which is shared between guests at different time intervals, incorporate light and darkness

This house has only two tatami rooms to stay overnight in making it a very intimate and private experience. Reservations are generally needed four months in advance due to the limited space, so be sure to plan ahead if you want to stay here. It is worth mentioning that this onsen is very bare-bones and only has the basic essentials so you can focus more on the art. Though this may be disappointing to those seeking a luxury experience, there’s nowhere else in Japan where you can experience this neon sensation, so I still highly recommend it to other onsen enthusiasts like myself.

If you are new to onsen, please consider checking out Kusatsu and Gunma first as they are more natural and accessible. After visiting many onsen, you will come to appreciate the features of House of Light even more!

Getting to House of Light

Unlike other onsen in Niigata, you can easily reach House of Light by taking a combination of trains and taxis, and the journey is quite scenic. From Tokyo Station, take the Jōetsu Shinkansen to Echigo Yuzawa Station. Then take the Hokuhoku Line to Tokamachi Station. The Hokuhoku Line is very unique because it consists of a single train car with a bunny mascot on it, and you can see the snowy mountains of Niigata outside of your window. Such a contrast from Tokyo! Once reaching Tokamachi Station, take a taxi (which will be waiting outside of the station) directly to House of Light. The journey will take a little less than three hours but is very exciting because there is a lot to see. The cost will be around 12000 yen including the taxi, which isn’t bad for a trip of this caliber.

There are a lot of things to do at Echigo Yuzawa Station too! This is the home of the famed festival Fuji Rock too.

Experiencing the Neon Light Display

In the next part of this article, I will cover the pros and cons of staying at House of Light.

Pros

This onsen only cost 25,000 yen per night, which is a really good price when split between a group of friends. Please note that you must pay for other amenities like towels and garbage disposal, but overall it is still an amazing deal. Compared to other onsen it is much smaller in size, but its minimalistic design is ideal for those who wish to mediate with nature and art. I enjoyed the quiet and intimate experience compared to other places I stayed. It was definitely a welcomed change!

Once we arrived, the staff was extremely welcoming and spoke both Japanese and English. They gave us a lot of information to read and were helpful with explaining how to use the bath and available amenities. The neon light display lasted for quite some time, and it was nice to meditate after doing some photography with my tripod. I definitely felt my body getting lighter as I focused on the beautiful light and nature around me. The art room combines concepts of both Japanese and Western art giving it a nostalgic feel. James Turrell based his design with concepts of the book “In Praise of Shadows” in mind it proudly shows in this display. Even if you don’t understand art, the theme is crystal clear.

The final point is the bath looks absolutely gorgeous at night. I loved the neon fiber optic colors because I’ve never seen them used anywhere else that I’ve stayed. Since the bath is private, you are free to take pictures of it too. This image is forever burned in my mind and I will never forget it:

Cons

The major con of House of Light is there are no meals available to order—you are expected to do all of the cooking yourself. We bought ingredients from the local supermarket to make nabe and also packed bento, but this took time away from enjoying the bath. Fortunately cooking utensils are provided, but other things such as seasonings you must supply yourself. When I stay overnight at onsen, I usually order the breakfast and dinner meal sets so I can experience the local ingredients of the prefecture that I’m visiting. Cooking was fun for the comradery, but you also must consider sharing the kitchen space with the other group that is staying with you.

That brings us to another point; since the utilities of House of Light are shared, the staff leaves it up to you to communicate with the other group of what time you want to use them. Fortunately the other group we shared the onsen with was nice and communicated well via text, but this would be an issue if they didn’t communicate frequently or if there was a language barrier. Though I didn’t realize this before, I think House of Light is best reserved with people you know. If I visit again, I will definitely reserve it with another group of people that I know.

The final con is that due to snow, we were unable to open the square roof and see the sky in the art room. This was a little disappointing but unpreventable, however the light show definitely still impressed me even without the natural lighting from above.

It’s up to you to weigh the pros and cons of staying here, but overall I give it a thumbs up!

Dining at Echigo Yuzawa Station

Before heading back to Tokyo, we decided to bathe in the sake onsen and eat some delicious hegi soba that is unique to Niigata Prefecture. Yes you heard that right, there is a sake onsen that you can bathe in at Echigo Yuzawa Station! It’s very small but only costs 800 yen to enter. I enjoyed the uniqueness of the bathe and felt extremely refreshed after bathing in two different baths this weekend. I hope to review more hot springs in English so I can recommend them to my friends.

The soba restaurant we visited was called Kojimaya and was located near the sake bath in Echigo Yuzawa Station. Hegi soba, one of Niigata’s specialty dishes, is smoother in texture comapred to regular soba and goes well with many different toppings. Whether you eat it hot or cold, you are guaranteed to enjoy its savory taste! Kojimaya also has a great selection of sake you can try. The menu is in both English and Japanese.

Final Thoughts

Though I wished the amenities were a bit better, I overall had an amazing time at the House of Light. My only regret is that I didn’t bring better photography equipment with me or take better photos for this article, but the whole point of coming here was to relax and take a break from the city which I accomplished.

Next month I plan to visit another onsen, but I have no idea where yet! If you have any suggestions, please feel free to drop them in the comments

A Summer Trip to Nagoya, Kyoto, and Osaka featuring Kuramadera

*Kuramadera rests on Mt. Kurama north of Kyoto.*

It’s been a few months since my last Japan update due to my extended trips to Europe and America, but I am happy to be publishing a lengthy article on my recent trip to Nagoya, Kyoto, and Osaka this summer! The purpose of this trip was to attend the World Cosplay Summit of 2023, and also cross off some more hiking trips and cafes off of my bucket list. This is the first summer in almost 3 years that Japan has been open for tourism since the emergency state regarding the pandemic, so many accommodations have risen in price. However, I was still able to find some nice last-minute deals and the increase of tourists didn’t get in the way of anything I had planned. I’m happy to report that even though I’ve been to these cities many times, there are always new things to discover!

For a detailed guide on World Cosplay Summit, please see my review from last year.

Nagoya and the Oshi no Ko Exhibition

Before changing into cosplay, I decided to buy tickets to the Oshi no Ko Exhibition titled “Lies and Ai” held in the Nagoya PARCO art gallery. This exhibition mostly focused on scenes from the very first episode featuring Ai’s mysterious life and Ruby and Aqua’s childhood. I loved all of the tiny details that were put into the entrances, the life-sized rooms from the anime, and the official costumes on display. The tour comes with an optional voice guide using Ai’s voice actress which adds emotion to the experience. I definitely felt like I had stepped into the anime and was watching all of the events unfold firsthand.

Unfortunately this exhibition was only held for a limited time and is now over, but there should be more in the future as season two of the anime has already been announced.

Aesthetic Food Finds in Nagoya

Nagoya has some of the best cafes in Japan and I was happy to discover more of them on this trip. Above all, I recommend the panda cheesecake from yama cofee. With a touch of lemon flavor and adorable chocolate panda toppings, this cheesecake is one of the best that I’ve ever had! It was almost too cute to eat. Almost. Next is the strawberry cake from Amanda Sweets Gallery. Shaped like a real strawberry, it has a sweet fruity filling that will definitely satisfy your sweet tooth. Lastly there is the Alice in Wonderland parfait from Cafe de Lyon. This parfait is quite fancy with fresh fruits, both whipped cream and ice cream, and cake and pudding inside! While eating it I felt like I had stepped into a wonderland of flavor with every bite. Honestly all of these places are worth checking out!

Kyoto and Kuramadera

Since my last trip to Kyoto, I’ve seen all of the noteworthy temples in the main part of the city so I decided to go off the beaten path and see Kuramadera in the mountains this time. Mt. Kurama, which you need to hike in order to reach the temple, is said to be the home of tengu deities. Tengu are mischievous red creatures with long noses who are fabled to be demons of war. Whether they are good or evil is unknown, but I sensed a welcoming presence from the tengu statues around Kurama Station. You can find tengu masks and souvenirs all around the shops in Kurama to satisfy your inner yokai.

Hiking up to the temple takes about one hour and the mountain is pretty easy to climb. However, you can also take a cable car from Kurama Station for 200 yen that will take you to the temple. I decided to hike the way up and take the cable car down since I had already gone running this morning. The views from Kuramdera are incredible so if you’re up for the hike then I definitely recommend it!

You can also combine a trip to Kurama with Kibune Shrine. Please see my article here for directions and more information.

Address: 1074 Kuramahonmachi, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 601-1111
Entrance Fee: 300 yen

Aesthetic Food Finds in Kyoto

Kyoto has no shortage of aesthetic food from sushi to ice cream and I’m happy to recommend more of my favorite places. First up is This is Shizen which is a nature store that serves realistic flower bouquet ice cream. Though there were a few different options, I decided to try the sunflower bouquet since it was the newest addition to their menu. I loved the sweet frosting that was paired with the ice cream—it definitely hit the spot on a hot summer day. Next is the seasonal peach dessert from Gion Sakai which is shaped like a water balloon. Picture fresh peaches coated in white chocolate and this is what you get. Though it was a little difficult to eat at first, I highly recommend it. As for lunch, I recommend the sushi course from Gion Ichiho because it is made with local ingredients and is filling. Though I’ve eaten a lot of great meals, this was one of my top picks in Kyoto! Finally is the chilled summer soba from suba. I’ve written about this place before and will gladly recommend it again because the noodles here are out of this world!

Osaka and the Family Guy Bar (The Drunken Clam)

One of the most meme-worthy bars in Osaka is the Family Guy karaoke bar, better known as The Drunken Clam. At first I thought this bar was a myth, but after hearing about it from multiple friends and making the journey there myself, I can confirm that it does indeed exist! This English speaking bar attracts both tourists and locals so it is a great place to socialize and make friends while singing your favorite tunes. The menu has a wide selection of cocktails and specialty drinks which are quite large in portion size. I enjoyed seeing all of the art and decorations because it truly felt like the bar from the hit anime Family Guy. Come here for the memes and stay here for the good times.

Address: 喜久ビル 3F, 6-26 Souemoncho, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0084

Aesthetic Food Finds in Osaka

My top two recommendations for sweets in Osaka are Locanda for their moon mille-feuille made with fresh fruits and custard, and Poire du nord for their selection of sweets and strawberry delicacies. The moon mille-feuille tasted similar to a crepe and was hands down the most aesthetic thing I ate on this trip. The way the chef creatively placed the strawberries on my plate reminded me of a flower arrangement. The strawberry cake I ordered from Poire du nord was like a combination of strawberry shortcake and sweet candy. I loved the little ribbon they used to tie the candies around the cake; it was truly a nice touch that made it Instagram worthy. I can’t recommend both of these places enough!

Summary

Though tourism has soared this year, there were no issues with overcrowding and minimal wait times in all of the places I mentioned. If you’re traveling this summer, my advice is to be careful of the heat and reserve shinkansen tickets ahead of time if possible. I won a portable mini fan from the game center that has greatly aided my in my travels. My next trip will be to Dubai and Spain next week! I hopefully will have more time to write this summer, as I enjoy sharing my experiences with you. Safe travels, everyone!

Experiencing the Wonders of Central Ubud & Canggu

After spending 4 days on the Gili Islands, I decided to make my way into the heart of Bali for the purpose of seeing temples and beautiful destinations. Two of the most popular places to stay in are Ubud and Canggu. Ubud very close to Bali’s famous rice terraces and jungles, plus has a palace and a large market making it a popular place for those looking to experience the cultural side of Bali. Canggu is close to the beach and has more of a wild nightlife, so it’s better for backpackers and travelers who want to mingle and do activities together. I spent the majority of my time in Ubud, but I recommend checking out both because they each have amazing food and places worth seeing.

This article will list some of my top recommendations in Ubud and Canguu, and my next article will cover my favorite temples and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Flower Bath at Udaya’s Kaveri Spa

One super popular thing to do in Bali is take an aroma bath filled with arranged flowers that make beautiful designs. Since I live for photography, I decided to book an appointment through Udaya’s Kaveri Spa, which has a reputation of being one of the best spas in Ubud. Though normally expensive, I got a 50% off coupon through their website because there are always online deals. The bath was around $39 but completely worth it for the once in a lifetime experience. The aromas and salts they put in the bath left my skin feeling amazing.

One thing to be careful of is these flowers are fresh and will attract bugs, so I recommend taking a flower bath in an indoor spa versus outside. Overall this was a wonderful memory and I am so happy the kind staff helped me take such wonderful photos.

Staying at a Traditional Indonesia Resort

On my first night in Ubud, I thought it would be fun to stay in a traditional Indonesian resort so I booked a room for around $60 at a beautiful place called Gayatri. This resort is in the heart of Ubud near the palace and the market so it’s in an ideal location. I really enjoyed seeing the stone statues that decorated the outdoor garden and the beautiful designs and patterns on the doors of the bungalows. When I entered my room, I noticed the spelt “Hi :)” in flowers which I very much enjoyed. The service here is great, and you can also try a unique kind of breakfast here!

If you love aesthetic food, then one fun thing to try in Bali is ordering a floating breakfast! This meal is served on a huge basket so you can eat it in a hot tub or pool. It’s very relaxing and gives you more privacy than going to a restaurant or buffet for breakfast. Though people usually try it for the photo op rather than the taste of the breakfast itself, I genuinely thought that my floating breakfast that I reserved at Gayatri was delicious! My meal included an avocado jaffle (toast with smashed fruit in it), warm noodle soup, dragon fruit juice, and pot of tea. You can customize your order with many different options which makes it very fun. Most resorts with pools in Bali offer it so it’s relatively easy to find.

I will be listing more of my favorite food places in Ubud in my next article!

Exploring Canggu

Canggu is a popular place to stay in Bali because it’s close to the beach and has a lot of amazing bars and restaurants around. It has much more of a party atmosphere than Ubud does which was quite welcoming to me. There are a number of resorts in this area, but the majority of people that hang around here are backpackers and into fitness, surfing, and yoga. I mostly came here for the food, but I also made a number of friends at the pool bar of my hostel. In fact, the budget accommodation I stayed at called Kos One Hostel was actually the coolest hostel I had ever seen in my life because it had a beautiful pool with a waterslide. It truly felt like I was staying at a waterpark resort, and the dorm rooms were only around $25 per night!

Though I didn’t have a very long stay in Canggu due to time constraints, I definitely had a memorable one. If you are interested in learning how to surf or take cooking classes, this is a great place to be. Also if you’re unsure what you want to do but really want to mingle and make friends, I recommend staying here over Ubud because it’s easier to find parties and meet people. Regardless, you will have a great time in Canggu!

Recommended Food & Drink

The best spot I found for happy hour drinks was a restaurant called Canggu Garden, because all of their fanciest signature cocktails were half off between 3pm – 7pm. I tried an orange infused vodka cocktail, a chocolate cocktail with cream and syrup, and the house white sangria mixed with fruit. All of the drinks tasted phenomenal and were reasonably priced. If you like pizza and Italian entrees, than you’ll love the food here too!

Another place that I had to try was the Avocado Factory, which was located just down the street from Canggu Garden so it was perfect. There are a lot of interesting options on the menu, including avocado pancakes and an egg katsu sandwich infused with avocado, but I chose the avocado and salmon bowl with cream cheese. I loved the rice and the cream cheese was definitely a nice touch! I wish I had enough room in my stomach to try more here, but one dish is pretty filling.

The final place I recommend is Café Vida for their smoothie bowls. I love the design of their smoothie bowls because they use multiple colors to create interesting patterns. I ordered the dragon fruit bowl and was impressed with its carefully curated sunset design. I also savored the fresh coconut shavings and granola and nuts on top. This bowl wasn’t overly fruity compared to others I’ve had in Bali, but it was one of the best I’ve tried. There are also a large amount of vegan entrees here, so you really can’t go wrong with what you order.

Thank you for reading the latest article in my Bali series. In my next article, I will be detailing my recommended temples and UNESCO World Heritage Sites that are accessible from both Bali and Canggu. Please look forward to it!

Exploring the Gili Islands of Indonesia: Gili Trawangan

*Gili Trawangan: A vibrant and tropical backpacking destination for those traveling to Indonesia!*

It’s been a bit since my last article series, but I am happy to announce that I am starting my next entry right before the holidays! For the last two weeks I’ve been backpacking through Bali, Indonesia, with my sights set on free diving on several of its gorgeous surrounding islands. Like the Philippines, Indonesia is a country that I’ve had on my bucket list for years due to its beautiful landscapes and beaches. If you live in Asia, then you probably are aware that it’s a popular destination for backpackers and travelers wishing to take tropical vacations. Food and accommodations are affordable and it is possible to visit many places in a single visit. Instead of traveling to the mainland, I decided to spend my entire time in Bali because I knew I wouldn’t want to leave the beach. I didn’t regret my decision one bit because there is so much to do in Bali that you can easily spend a month there!

My itinerary included the following destinations (all islands I visited were close to Bali):

Tokyo → Denpasar → Gili T → Gili Meno → Gili Air → Ubud → Nusa Penida → Komodo Island → Canggu → Denpasar ↺ Tokyo

In this latest article series I will start retelling the tale of my journey starting with the three Gili Islands: Gili Trawangan (frequently abbreviated as Gili T), Gili Meno, and Gili Air.

Getting to and around Bali

I booked a super cheap ticket from Tokyo to Denpasar through Singapore Airlines for $550. There was a 1 hour layover in Singapore, but enduring it was worth it for the discount. Direct flights post-pandemic are now usually over $900, so if you want a good deal from Japan definitely consider booking a flight with a short layover somewhere. December is during the rainy season in Bali, but it is still a pretty good time to viait. During my 14 day stay, it only rained briefly for 2 nights so it definitely felt like dry season to me!

The good thing about Bali is the majority of people in the areas that I was staying in spoke English and it was easy to communicate with them. In other parts of Indonesia, there is not much English guidance but fortunately I didn’t run into any problems. Compared to other countries I’ve been to, Indonesia is very religious with Islam being the most popular. Though very different from the religion I grew up with, I found learning about its practices to be quite interesting.

When traveling around the city, I recommend using the Grab app because it will always give you the lowest fairs. However, many people decide to rent scooters and motorbikes. If you decide to do this, just be aware that sometimes several vehicles share the same lane and roads are often narrow. Since I booked several tours to temples from Ubud that included transportation, I mostly walked to the places around the city that I wanted to go. Overall I didn’t have any problems at all getting around!

Adventures on Gili T Island

After I arrived to Denpasar Airport, I booked a private taxi to Padangbai Port through 12go Asia for $27 so I could reach Gili T Island via a 1.5 hour ferry ride. The average ticket price is around $32 one way for the fast boat, but your experience on the island will be more than worth the price. On Gili T, there are no cars so everyone gets around by horse and buggy and by road bike.

Gili T has an mixed reputation for being one of the biggest party destinations in Indonesia, but also for being one of the most relaxing getaways that attracts non-partiers. It additionally has beautiful waters that you can go snorkeling in which I will be covering in my next article. The east side of the island has the most bars, restaurants, and people, but if you want to escape, you can go to the north and west sides of the island which have tranquil beaches and resorts. Though it may not be for everyone, I personally liked how Gili T had a balance of peacefulness and nonstop partying. The surrounding Gili Islands are smaller and therefor have a lot less visitors if you’re looking for somewhere more private. I recommend visiting them all since they are very close to one another. It is easy to bike around the entire island within an hour, so I recommend renting a road bike to get around these islands. Your accommodation can point you in the nearest direction.

Some of my favorite bars in Gili T included Natys Restaurant, which was right on the beach and had amazing happy hour deals, and Blue Beach Bar, which had a bar with one of the nicest pools you could swim in. I also recommend going up north a bit and trying the bars near Turtle Beach. Gili Bong Bar and Turtle Beach Bar are tiny little bars that have warm and welcoming atmospheres. Gili T is also for its abundance of magic mushrooms. Like in Thailand, mushrooms are a gray area in the Gili Islands and many travelers consume them in shakes which makes it lowkey. While biking around, I saw many signs advertising them out in the open which was pretty hilarious coming from Japan. As I always say, do at your own risk and stay safe, but also enjoy.

Gili T Activities

Honestly the top activities on Gili T are swimming, drinking, and relaxing on the beach, but there are a few others that I recommend! The most fun thing I did aside from snorkeling was go horseback riding on the beach. Next to my accommodation was a stable of rescued horses called STUD Horse Riding where you can ride a horse for 30 mins – 1 hour. I decided to book the 30 min course on the beach. It was a little scary, but mostly fun! When we rode in the water, my horse named “Pegasus” stomped one of her front hooves abruptly, and I asked my guide if she was mad. He laughed and said “No, that means ‘I like it’!” I’m grateful that these rescued horses can enjoy a happy life on the beach, just like we can.

Other activities include bike riding, getting a massage, and joining a yoga group or a cooking class. If you ask your accommodation or walk around downtown, you can easily find someone that will point you in the right direction. Most activities really don’t cost much money—you’ll probably be spending most of your money on the delicious food and drinks here.

Recommended Food

Indonesia is probably the first country I’ve been to where I could walk into any restaurant and not have any issues finding something I could eat thanks to the large variety of vegetarian and vegan food here. All of the food on Gili T is amazing so don’t be afraid to try new things!

The restaurant I was looking forward to trying the most was called Banyan Tree in downtown Gili because it had some of the most creative dishes on the island. I ordered a beet hummus wrap filled with vegetables, and dragon fruit and banana pancakes for dessert with a side of honey. Both entrees tasted amazing and I wished I could have tried more of the vegan food here! The vegetable trays and coffee here also look amazing. If only I had a bigger stomach!

Kayu Cafe was another restaurant right down the street that I really enjoyed. For breakfast I had a vanilla latte with vegan waffles and scrambled tofu. I absolutely love the waffles in Bali because they come with an assortment of interesting toppings and dressings. I came back here another morning to try a giant vegetarian bagel and a green smoothie bowl. This is honestly the best place to grab breakfast on the island and I would recommend it to everyone!

The last place I recommend is Samadhi Living, which is a tiny café where I ordered a giant Buddha Bowl. I really loved the potato wedges, beet slices, and rice in this dish because all of the toppings packed a lot of flavor. I am so happy there were so many options for me on Gili T!

If vegan food is not your style, you can easily find grills downtown. I wanted to try the most unique dishes on the island which is why I mainly went to vegan cafes, but there really is great food for everyone here!

Accommodation

I stayed for 2 nights in a cute boutique hotel called Pink Coco Bali and had a phenomenal stay there. I loved the adorable pink décor and the outdoor pool with the plastic flamingos that is illuminated at night. Rooms are around $50 per night, but prices depend on the season. The advantage of staying at PinkCoco Bali is not only is it adorable, but it is also close to the beach and for adults only (no children allowed)! The staff was super friendly, and I was able to rent a bike here for a very cheap price. I loved both the aesthetic and convenience of this hotel, plus I think it had the most beautiful pool on the island. I would happily stay here again!

Thank you for reading the first article in my Bali series! My next article will cover visiting the other Gili Islands and going snorkeling, so please look forward to it.

Chasing Sunsets in Puerto Princesa and El Nido

*A timeless sunset at Nactan Beach in El Nido, Palawan.*

After spending a lovely four days at the Philippines’s #1 party destination, Boracay Island, I took a plane to to Palawan Island, which was the final destination on my itinerary before heading back to Tokyo. I decided to stay one night in Puerto Princesa and two nights in El Nido so I could explore some of the best beaches on the island. I expected Palawan to be somewhat similar to Boracay with a vibrant part atmosphere, but it is actually much more remote and private. There is a lot of farmland and lagoons in this area making it an interesting place to see. There are some good parties around the Nactan area at night, but during the day it’s quite peaceful. Nactan Beach was my favorite beach to go swimming at because the water was so crystal clear. Getting there is a bit of a journey, but you won’t regret seeing the beautiful sunsets there every night. Not to mention the happy hour specials on the beach are amazing!

Getting to Puerto Princesa & El Nido

From Boracay’s Godofredo Airport, I took a plane to Puerto Princesa Airport which had a short layover in Manila. The one-way flight was about $80 through Air Asia which was fair for the distance.

Getting from Puerto Princesa to El Nido is a bit of a long haul because it takes 5-6 hours by bus or van. I booked a van through 12goAsia for around $12. Fortunately there are a few rest stops and the van is air conditioned so it wasn’t a bad ride at all. Please note that El Nido has an airport too, but it is currently not possible to fly there from Puerto Princesa—everyone in Palawan travels there by bus. However, it is possible to fly to El Nido from other islands in the Philippines so that’s something to keep in mine while planning your itineraray.

I recommend spending at least 4-6 days in Palawan if you want to see both Puerto Princesa and El Nido. If you are short on cash or aren’t up for the long ride between the two, then I recommend choosing the one you like the most. El Nido was my favorite because it had better beaches and parties, but I’m happy that I had the chance to see both!

Honda Bay Island Hopping Tour in Puerto Princesa

I booked a Honda Bay Island Hopping Tour through KKday so I could see some of the loveliest beaches in Puerto Princesa. This group tour was around $30 and included lunch so it was a great deal. The island hopping tour explored 3 islands in Honda Bay which were all about 30-45 minutes away from one another, so it was an easier journey than to my favorite diving spots in Cebu. I would recommend this tour because it is cheap and my guide was super friendly. You get roughly 45 minutes – 1 hour at each beach so you can relax and fully explore them. These islands are quite tiny but have a lot of interesting characteristics.

Please note that the lifeguards are strict about where you swim in Palawan, so there are designated swimming areas on each island. This did not bother me because I was able to cover a lot of ground on each island even with the limitations in place.

Honda Bay’s Starfish Island

Seeing Starfish Island was actually my #1 reason for coming to Puerto Princesa. I’ve been to a lot of tropical countries in Asia, but have never seen so many starfish in the wild before! The tides on this island are usually pretty low so they are easy to spot both on the beach and in the water. Snorkeling equipment was provided on this tour, so I used my GoPro to swim underwater and take their photographs while having the time of my life. These starfish are known as Protoreaster nodosus, but are nicknamed chocolate chip starfish due to pointed projections on their bodies that resemble chocolate chips. I will forever treasure my memory with the chocolate chip starfish on Honda Bay!

Luili Island

Our next stop was Luili Island, which is another small island with beautiful waters and many tropical fish. The swimming area here was deeper than the shallow waters of Starfish Island, so I enjoyed wading in it and seeing all of the aquatic wildlife beneath the sea. One funny thing I noticed here was a starfish with four legs. At first I was a bit concerned for it, but I later I learned that starfish have the ability to grow their limbs back. I sure wish I could do that too! After swimming for a bit, I relaxed in a hammock before we went to our final destination: Cowrie Island.

Cowrie Island

Cowrie Island was the biggest of the three islands that we explored and had the largest swimming area of them all. This island also has a mini bar that serves frozen cocktails and shakes, so I immediately ordered a Long Island. By this time I was pretty exhausted from swimming, but I did go in the water for a little bit to feed the fish some bread I had bought for them. Watching them scramble to eat it was a fun experience. After the tour was over, I had the tour van drop me off at the bus terminal so I could catch my night bus to El Nido. I recommend buying some drinks for the ride because it’ll make the trip much easier.

Living it up on Nacpan Beach

I arrived to Nacpan Beach around 11pm and checked into my accommodation so I could drop off my things. As I was walking around the beach area at night, I heard dance music blaring down the street so I decided to go check it out. Turns out there is a free dance party in El Nido every Saturday where the locals gather and share drinks with one another. I was invited by a friendly group of Filippinos to join their table so I did and had a fun time talking with them. They even gave me free drinks which was too kind of them. The music the DJ played was a mixture of Filippino songs and western dance music. I heard Eminem at one point and cracked up. One Filippino girl invited me to dance with her and ended up introducing me to her entire family. I really think Palawan has some of the nicest people!

The next day I spent nearly all day swimming on Nactan Beach. This ended up being my favorite beach in the Philippines because it was such a pretty shade of blue and very fun to swim in. In the evening I partook in the happy hour specials and watched the sunset with one of my local friends who rode up to see me off. I was only in El Nido for two nights, but between the dance party and the beach I feel like I got the chance to experience a lot.

Recommended Food & Drink

Since Nacpan Beach is so remote, there are limited restaurants but almost all of the resorts have places you can eat. Since my hotel didn’t include breakfast, I had some cheap toast and eggs at Mad Monkey Hostel which was a good deal. I also had vegan goulash and buy one get one free banana daquiris at Sunmai Sunset Restaurant which was the best meal I had in El Nido. The tropical cocktail I had in an owl-shaped glass was also refreshing. I was impressed with the variety of drinks they had here. On my final day, I had cookies and cream ice cream from a stand located next to Sunmai Sunset. I really wish I could have tried every restaurant on the beach because everything I ate on this trip was satisfying.

Accommodation

While in El Nido, I rented a green cottage at Valine Grace Cottages which is a place that I’ve been looking forward to staying at since I first planned my trip to the Philippines in 2020. Prices start at $25 per night which is extremely affordable. The perks of staying here is it’s right on the beach and very quiet. I was actually the only person staying here and I couldn’t believe that I had the entire place to myself! The downside is there is no wi-fi here and sometimes the roosters and wild dogs barking will wake you up in the morning. However, you can ask for free wi-fi from the Mad Monkey Hostel around the corner from this place so don’t worry.

Final Thoughts

Overall two weeks was the perfect amount of time to explore four islands in the Philippines. I really covered a lot of ground on this trip and am proud of myself for accomplishing it. The weather in November was mostly sunny with minimal rain so it was the perfect time to come. The food was inexpensive and delicious, and I was happy to see there were so many vegan options around. My biggest regret was not seeing the lagoons in El Nido due to the distance from where I was staying. If I come to the Philippines again, I definitely want to see the lagoons and the Coron area because they have beautiful waters. I also wish to explore more culture festivals and music events so I can make more local friends. I am grateful for all of the Filippino friends I made because they showed me amazing hospitality and I will not forget their kindness.

Overall, the Philippines is a great destination if you enjoy warm weather and being on the beach! If you are unsure if you’ll like it, then I recommend traveling to Phuket in Thailand first to see what you think. Thailand has more sightseeing than the Philippines so it is a great place to start if you’re new to Asia.

Thank you for reading the final article in my Philippines article series! This two week trip was a blast and I hope to continue traveling like this so long as I can. My next article will be about going to an Autumn festival in Japan. Please look forward to it!

Finding Paradise on Boracay Island

After spending a relaxing weekending in Manila, I decided to fly to the Philippines’s #1 getaway and party destination: Boracay Island. Boracay is a small island located in the Western Visayas that boasts beautiful beaches and and arguably the best night life in the country. The majority of travelers stay on the main beach strip, known as White Beach, that is lined with restaurants, bars, and shopping centers and is always bumping. Most accommodations on White Beach are fairly priced, and the shore is just a few minutes by foot away. However, if you would like to book a more private accommodation, you can look into hotels further north of White Beach where less tourists flock. I decided to stay on White Beach to get the most out of the party life!

Getting to Boracay

Please note that getting to Boracay is a bit of a journey and there are no airports on the island. You need to fly to either Godofredo or Kalibo Airport, then take a taxi to the northern ferry port to sail to Boracay. Fortunately most hotels will offer a travel package that includes the taxi and ferry fare from the airport. I recommend flying to Godofredo since it is much closer than Kalibo (fortunately most roundtrip Air Asia tickets from Manila are under $50). Either way, the trip is worth it because Boracay is one of the most beautiful islands in the Philippines and it’s very easy to make friends there.

During my first night in Boracay, I mostly went swimming on White Beach and drank Long Islands under the sunset. My top recommendations for bars with a club atmosphere are Epic and OM. Some locals invited me to a place called Exit Bar where all of the drinks were under a dollar. The liquor quality wasn’t the best but it sure was a great place to drink cheap! Most bars are open from 10am – 3am or later, so no matter what time you feel like going out there is something to do. This is by far the best party island I have been to in Asia, besides Koh Phangan in Thailand. I liked Boracay better because the beaches were prettier and there were less tourists here. I would definitely come back here to try more drinks if I had the chance!

Island Hopping

On my second day in Boracay, I decided to book an island hopping tour through KKday. This group tour was only $12 which was a killer deal. Please note that you can book tours from various agencies on the island when you arrive, but they may be more expensive than if you reserve online in advance.

The tour included the following points of interest plus a free lunch:

Puka Beach
Balinghai Beach
Snorkel at Coral Garden
Crystal Cove Island
Lunch at Tambisaan Beach

Besides White Beach, Puka Beach was the best beach I went swimming at. Since it is located at the northern tip of the island, the waves are much stronger, but I loved how remote and private it was. The coral garden we went snorkeling at was also beautiful and I was happy to see that it was in healthy state. We only had 30 minutes to snorkel there, but I enjoyed seeing all of the aquatic wildlife because the visibility underwater was amazing.

Crystal Cove Island was also a treasure because it had two beautiful caves you can explore. I enjoyed taking a break from the sun and wading in the cool water there. Getting around the island is a bit of a hike, but I enjoyed working up an appetite before lunch!

The lunch at Tambisaan Beach was a bit disappointing because they only had prawns as a pescatarian option, so I mostly ate prawns and rice. Fortunately after this we headed back to central Borcay so I could eat some vegan food on the beach! Overall I highly recommend this tour, just be aware that your lunch options are pretty limited if you don’t eat meat.

Mermaid Swimming

A popular activity/photo opp on Boracay Island is mermaid swimming with a rentable tail. The tail has two flippers inside which makes it possible to swim in deep waters. When I arrived earlier this month, there were two shops that offered it. One was a small Korean-themed cafe on White Beach that offers fin rentals for photos only. The price was around $13 dollars for this activity. The place that I booked was the Mermaid Swimming Academy in D’Mall which was further up the main road. This shop offers both photos and a private swimming lesson that I wanted to try. The price was $35 dollars for this class, but I was able to wear the fins for much longer. My instructor, Megan, was very kind and taught me different strokes. I ended up hanging out with her later that night because she works at Epic too. If you have never tried this activity and are interested, then Boracay is the perfect place because it’s so relaxed!

Food Recommendations

Due to its tropical atmosphere by the ocean, there is no shortage of fresh fruit and fish on Boracay, plus the restaurants on White Beach have cocktails galore! I was delighted to see that a number of restaurants included vegan options too. Please note that some of the food here is pricey due to it being located in a resort area. To find the best deals, I would walk up and down White Beach in the morning and read the chalkboards that list happy hour specials in front of the shops you want to try. I was able to find some killer deals, like buy one get one free drinks before 8pm and rainy season specials. If you befriend the locals, they can help you find great places too.

Nonie’s

Out of all of the restaurants in Boracay, Nonie’s was by far my favorite! The cocktails and entrees here are to die for. The first time I went here, I had a tempeh bowl with banana pancakes and their award winning ube liquor cocktail. This was hands down the best meal I had in the Philippines because all of the ingredients were on point. I came back here another day and tried a tuna quinoa bowl with some vegetarian siopao and the taste was out of this world. The cocktail I had with coconut shavings in it really complimented my meal too I really wish I would have had time to try everything on the menu, because everything I ate blew my mind. Vegan restaurants in tropical locations rarely disappoint.

Café Maruja

Café Maruja is a mermaid-themed coffee shop and restaurant located on White Beach with amazing décor. I loved the boat-shaped bar table, the neon lights, and the floral seat designs, not to mention the mermaid-themed cups and silverware. I had rose coffee and an acai bowl here for breakfast one morning, and also tried a poke bowl one of the nights after I went swimming. Though a bit pricey, the food here has generous serving sizes and is pretty good. I would still say that Nonie’s is better, but this was my second favorite spot and a great spot to people watch.

Ice Cream & Yogurt

While walking back from the island hopping tour, I found a coconut ice cream place called Coco Mama’s that served coconut ice cream out of a shell. I really liked how refreshing it was. I also found an avocado ice cream shop near Nonie’s and had to try it out. Just like the place I went to in Manila, this stand had absolutely delicious avocado frozen yogurt topped with fresh pieces of the fruit. On my last day, I found a shop on White Beach that serves smoothies in a bottle! You really can’t go wrong with any dessert you order here because all of it is worth trying.

Accommodation

Since I love little island huts, I decided to book one with a single room at Roy’s Rendezvous. I loved this place because it was 5 mins away from White Beach by foot and had hammocks on the balconies of the huts. The average price of these rooms are $40 per night which I think is pretty fair because it includes breakfast too. I stayed for 4 days and 3 nights which was more than enough to see the entire island. The staff was extremely accommodating and helped me book my taxi and ferry ticket back to the airport in advance. I would highly recommend this place because it’s quiet at night too.

Overall I had a fantastic stay with sunny weather and minimal rain. The only thing that was annoying was all of the vendors that tried to sell me things while I was walking from the beach to my hotel, but I expected as much here. It’s important to note that in 2018 that Boracay was closed due to the destruction of ecosystems by tourists, but it reopened the same year with an entry restriction. The island has a capacity of only 55,000 people (and over half are residents) so I would recommend booking your stay here at least a month in advance, especially if you go during the high season.

Thank you for reading my Borcay article. I hope you have the chance to go here and enjoy the nightlife too! My next article will be the last of my Philippines article series and will detail my experience in El Nido. Please look forward to it!

Cebu City Highlights & Bohol Island (Part 2)

*A tiny Bohol Tarsier clings to a tree at the conservation area.*

After an adventurous day of getting acquainted with all of the major sights of Cebu City, I decided to take a ferry from Cebu Port to Bohol Island so I could see the precious Tarsiers and the Chocolate Hills. Bohol is a popular tourist destination because it has a lot of unique wildlife and geographical features. There are many lush forests, beaches, and conservation centers for animals too. I would highly recommend visiting this island in person because it will leave a lasting impression on you.

Getting to Bohol

One-way tickets to Bohol are around $9 for a high-speed ferry and the journey only takes around two hours (I booked mine in advance through 12goAsia). Though you can stay overnight on the island, a day trip is usually sufficient.

Since I wanted to know more about the history of the island, I decided to book a private tour with a local through Wow Bohol Tours. The tour was $50 and included the following things:

Blood Compact Shrine
Baclayon Church Ruins
Python Viewing
Tarsier Viewing
Man-made Forest
Butterfly Garden
Chocolate Hills
Souvenir Shop

Overall I had an amazing experience day tripping to Bohol and doing photography, so I encourage my friends to do the same.

The Chocolate Hills

The Chocolate Hills are Bohol’s most famous nature attraction because they have a unique color and shape. During the dry season they turn completely brown and resemble Hershey’s Kisses, but I came during the wet season in November when they were completely green. I think they look beautiful during all seasons regardless of color. You can see them best from viewpoints at Chocolate Hills Complex (where I visited) and Sagbayan Peak.

According to an article I read, the hills got their shape through a rare type of weathering:

Geologists believe that the hills were formed through weathering carving marine limestone on top of a clay layer. Its color is the main reason it’s called Bohol Chocolate Hills.
Unfolding the Majestic Beauty of Chocolate Hills in Bohol by Cielo Fernando

I would love to come back during the dry season and see them in their chocolate form too!

Tarsier Conservation Area

The second place we stopped was the Tarsier Conservation Area which is safe haven to the world’s smallest primates. The Bohol Tarsier is an endangered species due to having many predators in the wild so they protected here. Another interesting fact is that they can only have one offspring per year making it hard for them to keep their numbers up. Tarsiers are very shy but safe to approach them as long as you do not disturb them. Unfortunately you cannot hold or get super close to them, but the staff will take amazing photos from a safe distance if you lend them your camera. I was pleased with the quality of this conservatory and so happy that I got to see them. Hopefully they can continue to thrive in this jungle area and live a peaceful life.

Butterfly Garden

After the cute Tarsier overload, my driver took me to a small butterfly garden/conservatory. There were quite a lot of them fluttering around and some of them even landed on my head! The garden had an overhead net which protected the butterflies from bad weather conditions. I was informed by one of the butterfly keeps that sometimes the heavy rain damages their wings so they are unable to fly. This information made me sad, but fortunately they are able to reproduce enough so their livelihood can survive.

There were pythons you could hold here, but some had just eaten and looked sleepy so I opted not to hold them. Sometimes it’s better just to watch!

Lunch on a Floating Restaurant

After all of these exciting activities, my driver took me to an all-you-can-eat buffet at a boat restaurant called Rio Verde! The experience was fun because the turtle-shaped boat sailed down the river and there was live music that really brightened the atmosphere. I had a lot of fun trying different Filippino foods, especially the curry and fish. I was happy to see that they had vegetarian options as well.

The price was around $14 which was worth it for the amount of food you can eat.

Blood Compact Shrine

Our last stops were the Blood Compact Shrine and the Baclayon Church Ruins before returning to the Bohol ferry terminal. I was expecting the Blood Compact Shrine to have an altar, but actually it’s just a monument. This monument symbolizes the old ritual of cutting hands with an ally and mixing the blood in a cup with wine to drink as the sign of a treaty or close friendship. Many tribes in Bohol performed this ritual in the olden days, but it is not used anymore.

I sadly couldn’t go inside the Baclayon Church Ruins due to time constraints, but seeing the outside of them was sufficient enough for me. Additionally, I didn’t take many pictures of the man-made forest because there was a paved road for vehicles going through it, but it was fun to drive through. The trees were planted there as a reforestation project making the scenery look more green and I was happy to see them growing. Overall I was extremely satisfied with this tour, especially that I got to see the Chocolate Hills and the Tarsiers! My guide was very kind and let me wander freely around all of these attractions. If you are interested in seeing beaches or islands during your time on Bohol, there are other tours that you can choose from.

In my next article, I will be writing about the two best diving spots in Cebu. Please look forward to it, and thank you for your support as always!

Spending a day in Morioka City, Iwate

*The quiet shopping streets of Morioka City in Iwate Prefecture.*

After spending the night at a hot springs resort on the lake in Akita Prefecture, we decided to take a road trip to the very last of the 47 prefectures of Japan on my travel list: Iwate Prefecture. Iwate actually has the lowest population density of all prefectures on the main island of Japan (Honshu), so you’ll definitely feel like you’re in the countryside if you travel here. Taking advantage of the country roads, we decided to stop at a farm and one of Iwate’s nicest museums, Ishigami-no-Oka, before spending the night in the largest city named Morioka. Traveling to all 47 prefectures of Japan has been extremely rewarding, and though Iwate felt a bit less exciting than other cities I’ve been to, I’m very happy that I had the opportunity to visit.

Koiwai Farm

Koiwai Farm is a very tranquil ranch with animals, various dairy products for sale, and a fantastic view of Mt. Iwate. This farm is located between Akita and Morioka City, so we decided to stop here first because it was on the way to our hotel. Before even checking out any of the attractions, we bought some creamy vanilla ice cream because it was fresh and delicious. We mostly spent our time walking around the fields and gazing at the mountain in the distance, but it was fun to see all of the activities you could do here. One of the most interesting nature spots of Koiwai is a sole cherry blossom tree in it that’s ideal for photography in the spring, but unfortunately it wasn’t in bloom this season. What’s also interesting is that you can sign up for lessons on how to milk a cow! During certain times of the year there are festivals and illuminations, so be sure to see what’s in season when you visit.

Address: 36-1 Maruyachi, Shizukuishi, Iwate District, Iwate 020-0507
Entrance Fee: 800 yen

Ishigami-no-Oka Museum

Since I love art and nature, Ishigami-no-Oka Museum was the perfect destination in Iwate for me. Boasting a huge flower garden and abstract sculptures of animals with aerial views, this is a great place to enjoy a stroll and do photography. My favorite piece of art was the seahorse-like creature that looked like it was eating grass from a funny angle. I also liked the bear that was seated at the observatory point. What makes these kind of open air museums so unique is how the light and shadows hit the sculptures, and also how the surroundings change as the seasons change. I would love to come back and visit this museum again during another time of year if given the chance.

Address: Dai 10 Chiwari-121-21 Itsukaichi, Iwate, Iwate District, Iwate 028-4307
Entrance Fee: 500 yen

Exploring Morioka

Morioka is much smaller and more rural than what I initially imagined it to be, but here are some of my favorite recommendations in the city. Please remember that some businesses and attractions may close early since this is the countryside. One of my biggest regrets was not having enough time to make it to Jodogahama Beach because it was over two hours away from the museum, but I’ve also seen a lot of pretty beaches in Okinawa!

Morioka Castle Site Park

Since Morioka’s Castle Site Park was walking distance from our hotel, we decided to check it out before dinner. However, unlike Akita’s Senshu Park, there was sadly no castle here anymore because it was demolished in 1874 with the end of the samurai area. But the area that remains is quite lovely and you can see a nice pond and views of Morioka City by ascending the stairs here.

Food & Drink Recommendations

About 10 minutes walking from the park, I found an amazing vegan restaurant called Karakoma. I ordered a vegan teishoku set served with beet soup, brown rice, and an assortment of vegetable dishes and it tasted beyond amazing! They also have organic wine and vegan desserts. If I was more hungry at the time, I would have ordered more dishes, but what I had was filling enough!

Before calling it a night, we decided to head to a cocktail bar called esprit for some sweet drinks. I ordered a tiramisu cocktail and a White Russian. As you can expect from a bar like this, the quality was top notch and the drinks were just as good as the vegan meal I ate before. I really hope this bar gets more recognition because it clearly deserves it!

Accommodation

We stayed in Hotel Ace Morioka because it was centrally located and around 5000 yen per night, but I would not recommend it because the rooms were tiny and smoky. I would look at non-business hotels for a better stay because this one landed a bit below my standards.

This ends my adventure of exploring all 47 prefectures of Japan, but fear not! I have plans to still stay in the country and explore various culture festivals and other things I have yet to experience. I will likely be revisiting many of my favorite prefectures, like Kyoto and Osaka, again this year and look forward to what the future brings. My next trip is coming up in about a week and will be in the Philippines! Please continue to look forward to more exciting adventures from yours truly.

Exploring the Wonders of Teshima Island

*A very vibrant Japanese garden displayed outside the Yokoo House.*

After a successful two days of sightseeing on Naoshima and Shodoshima, our final destination was Teshima, the smallest of the three islands we visited. This island is famous for its art museum that contains a single sculpture called “The Matrix” and also has houses that were turned into art projects like on Naoshima. Teshima is ideal for a day trip because it is close to the other two islands, but I don’t recommend staying overnight here because it’s extremely rural and there aren’t as many food options available compared to the other islands. However, Teshima is just a 30 minute ferry ride from Naoshima making it very easy to access. You can easily see all of the majors sights within 4 hours so take that into consideration when booking a trip here. The buses here are limited but there is much less ground to cover so you can see things easily.

This is the final article of my art island series, so I hope you enjoy it!

Teshima Art Museum

The Teshima Art Museum is the most famous destination here and contains a single piece of art which is a giant shell called “Matrix” nestled in the hills of the island. This concrete shell has two oval openings at the top so streams of light can reach the inside and you can here the sound of the wind and the ocean when you enter the Matrix (pun intended). Little droplets of water continually trickle from the ground and are pulled by gravity towards the oval openings. The composition of this building is like nothing I’ve ever seen in my life and is said to represent the passing of seasons and flow of time. Though this was the only exhibition in the museum, it was truly awesome.

The disappointing thing about this attraction is that no photography is allowed inside, but it is definitely worth seeing if you come to this island because its architecture is one of a kind.

Entrance Fee: 1570 yen

Finding Food on the Island

We tried to go to two restaurants on the island, but they were full of reservations and had a waitlist which was really surprising because we went on a random weekday. Thankfully right outside of the Teshima Art Museum there was a pizza truck, and the gift shop had bagels and rice gelato (which had quiet the interesting texture). If you want to eat a proper meal at one of the restaurants here, be sure to call in advance or consider packing your own food for Teshima!

Yokoo House

The Yokoo House is a traditional Japanese house that has been completely transformed into one of the trippiest art museums you’ve ever seen. Some of the windows are tinted red which makes the outside area look very neon and retro. The outdoor garden has a golden turtle and the stones have been splashed with bright red, yellow, and green colors. Inside of the house photography is prohibited, but all of the works are worth seeing. There is a room full of mini waterfall tiles, DMT inspired artwork that depict various entities hanging on the wall, and clear glass on the floor so you can see fish swimming below you in the main room of the house. There are a lot of things to take in here. Even the outdoor toilets have metallic surfaces making them extremely aesthetic. The Yokoo House was my exhibition on Teshima for sure!

Entrance Fee: 520 yen

Art House Project (Your First Color)

“Your First Color” is an art house project that has an orb-shaped projector inside and flashes trippy images of flowers and different colors. It is very small and only contains a single room, but it is worth seeing to kill time while waiting for the bus. I personally enjoyed its visuals.

Entrance Fee: 300 yen

Dinner in Takamatsu

After 100% completing our travel itinerary, we decided to head back to Takamatsu via ferry so we could catch our evening flight back to Tokyo. We found a delicious seafood restaurant called Tenkatsu near the port and decided to get a teishoku set there. The meal was so delicious and looked even better than the picture online. In the center of the restaurant is a giant pool of fish that they use in their cooking. While we were eating, one of the larger fish jumped out of the pool, but fortunately one of the workers was able to help it get back in the water. What a way to end our long journey! I would recommend this place to people who love sushi and sashimi.

Final Thoughts

Visiting Naoshima after 5 years and seeing Shodoshima and Teshima for the first time made this trip worth it, because these islands have a lot of unique art that can’t be seen anywhere else in the world! The coexistence between art and nature is forever present in all of the works here, and all of the architects have such beautiful messages to deliver. Additionally, the architecture of the exhibits on these islands teaches you how beautiful natural lighting can be. It is up to you on how you interpret the true message of the artwork on these islands, but to me it shows how minimalism can have a huge impact on the way we view things. The Art House Project also shows how old and abandoned spaces can be completely transformed into something vinrant and new.

My favorite part of the trip was seeing the garden from Kiki’s Delivery Service on Shodoshima, but every day we spent on these three islands was memorable. I would recommend them to people who really love Japanese art and are down for a long adventure. I also would recommend traveling to Okinawa before coming to these islands because it is more accessible and there are more activities to do there.

My next destinations are Akita and Iwate later this month, which are the final two prefectures of Japan I haven’t seen yet! Please look forward to me writing about seeing the entirety of Japan!

Exploring Aesthetic Museums and Glass Shrines on Naoshima

*Glass shrine floating on a pond at the Benesse House Art Site.*

Over the last three days I have been traveling through a chain of tropical art islands in Shikoku with a friend and seeing a lot of aesthetic architecture. The main island we’ve been staying on is Naoshima, which I first visited roughly five years ago. The other two islands we visited are called Shodoshima and Teshima, which you can reach from Noashima by ferry. Naoshima is known for its works by artists like Tadao Ando and Yayoi Kusama which showcase the “coexistence of nature, art and architecture“. Shodoshima is famous for its Olive Park that inspired the location of Kiki’s Delivery Service. Teshima is famous for its large concrete shell called “Matrix”. In this article series I will be talking about the best things I’ve discovered on them all, starting with Naoshima!

Getting to Naoshima

The best two ways to get to Naoshima are to fly to Takamatsu or Okayama and take a ferry to Naoshima from their respective ports. Since tickets from Narita Airport to Takamatsu Airport were cheaper, we decided to fly there for around 27000 yen. However, you can purchase airline tickets at a much cheaper price if you buy them in advance. The ferry ride from Takamatsu Port is about an hour and costs 550 – 1200 yen depending on if you take the high speed ferry or not. The entire trip takes about 3 hours from Tokyo so plan to leave early and reference the ferry time table so you get their early. Most things on Naoshima Island close by 7pm. I recommend renting a bike near the port so you can cover the most ground.

Slowpoke is the unofficial mascot of Takamatsu, so be sure to keep an eye out for his vending machine and airport limousine (which fortunately was on time)! There is also Slowpoke Udon (called Yadon Udon) you can purchase in select omiyage stores.

Art Sites around Miyanoura Port

We arrived to Naoshima’s Miyanoura Port at 11am and decided to take some pictures of the Red Pumpkin and the Naoshima Pavilion, which are both two free exhibits that you can climb inside! Much like some of the art we saw in Aomori earlier this year, these works were vibrant and interactive. After snapping some photos, we rented electric bikes from a nearby store for the three days we were staying and decided to make our way around the island. The best thing about Naoshima is that it can be fully explored by bike so you don’t need to wait for any buses!

Go’o Shrine

The Go’o Shrine is a small wooden shrine atop a hill with very intricate stairs made out of glass. This was my first time seeing a shrine like this so it was very awe-inspiring. Go’o Shrine is actually part of the Art House Project that turns abandoned or destroyed places into works of art and is considered to be a real Shinto shrine. You should definitely stop by and pay your respects if you have the time because the entrance is free.

Entrance Fee: Free
Address: 〒761-3110 Kagawa, Kagawa District, Naoshima, 宮ノ浦820

Benesse House & Benesse Art Site

The Benesse House is arguably Naoshima’s most famous museum complex designed by Tadao Ando. My favorite work of art here is a neon sign that illuminates several phrases that have to do with living and dying. I first visited this museum five years ago, but it was so great to finally see it again! This time we decided to eat wagashi and green tea at the tea house attached to the Benesse Hotel. The tea was the best I’ve ever had in Shikoku so I definitely recommend it to my fellow tea enthusiasts. I also liked how they had a miniature model of the Go’o Shrine here! It felt so neat seeing it after seeing the real thing! There is also a glass shrine floating on top of water outside of the teahouse which was one of my favorite things that I discovered on this trip. The walkway has colorful sculptures of various animals you can see. The whole composition of the Benesse House is unrivaled, making it one of my top museums in Japan.

For a comprehensive list of Naoshima museums, please see my previous Naoshima article.

Yayoi Kusama’s Narcissus Garden

Outside from the Benesse House Museum is a garden full of metal balls called the “Narcissus Garden” designed by Yayoi Kusama. What I found amazing is how they were made of stainless steel and were resistant to the weather. Seeing them balanced on stairs and floating in the lake was quite impressive, especially with the natural lighting. Within this garden you will also find 88 Buddha statues made of industrial waste designed by Tsuyoshi Ozawa. These statues are said to inspire prayer within visitors to the garden. Since this exhibit is free if you have purchased a ticket to the Benesse House museum, you should definitely see it!

Lunch at the Benesse Cafe

While at the Benesse House, we decided to stop at the Benesse Cafe for lunch. Not only does it have a fantastic view of the outdoor sculptures, but the food is delicious too! I ordered the tomato pasta which was completely vegetarian, and a lemon float with served in an iconic Naoshima glass with a Yayoi Kusama print. Both tasted amazing, and the glass is purchasable in the shop if you would like to take it home as a souvenir.

Beach & Dinner at New Olympia

After a full day of sightseeing, we decided to relax at Gotanji Beach near the Benesse House and go swimming. When I first came to this beach 5 years ago, it was full of foreign tourists and quite happening, but since the pandemic it is more quiet and serene. We bought drinks from a nearby grocery store and spent quite a while watching the sunset. It truly felt like a private beach!

Afterwards we stopped at a nearby teishoku place called New Olympia for a sashimi set. When you’re by the ocean, you gotta have sashimi! I ordered grilled fish with my set and some cold sake too. I was not disappointed because the quality of this seafood was top notch.

I ❤ Yu

On the island there is only one bathhouse called I ❤ Yu that is perfect for taking a long soak after sightseeing. What makes this bathhouse so unique is it is designed with mosaic patterns and has a giant elephant statue mounted above the bathing area. The floor of the bath has a unique collage of old Japanese artwork that is semi-erotic and includes Angkor beer seals from Cambodia and images of animals too. I really enjoyed seeing the glitzy mesh of cultures while I reflected on everything that I had done this day. I recommend stopping by here if you get the chance!

Address: 2252-2, Naoshima, Kagawa District, Kagawa 761-3110
Entrance Fee: 660 yen

Accommodation

Last time I visited Naoshima I only did it as a day trip, but this time I wanted to try staying overnight on the island. We picked a small Japanese Inn called Oyaji no Umi that was roughly 4800 yen per night. The location was great because it was next to Naoshima Port and the Ando Museum. The Benesse House and the other art sites were easily reachable by bike. The rooms were very traditional with tatami floors and Japanese style, but it made the experience all the more wholesome. Breakfast was included in the price so it was very good deal! I enjoyed eating the warm toast with eggs, salad, and yogurt while I was here because there were not many breakfast places on the island. Some accommodations on the island are a bit pricey, but this one was perfect for our budget.

Thank you for reading my Naoshima artice. I will be publishing an article on Shodoshima next with instructions on how to reach the Kiki’s Delivery Service park.