After going on a grand tour of Phu Quoc Island on the day of my birthday, I decided to spend my final day in Vietnam going to Hon Thom Sun World amusement park. To reach this amusement park, you must go to the south end of the island by taxi and ride the world’s longest cable car to another island. You will pass over a cluster of fishing markets on your way there so it really is worth it for the view. I remember the ocean looked so beautiful from above. I’m really grateful I got the chance to swim in it when I landed!
As soon as I entered the park I noticed I was starving, so I ordered some vegan spring rolls, a seafood noodle dish, and a strawberry smoothie. I was surprised at how big the serving sizes were! There are restaurants all over the place so you’ll never go hungry:
Next I decided it was time to explore the park. I’ll admit that my main reason for coming here was to ride the cable car. I didn’t put much research into what attractions there were, but I figured I’d go and have fun no matter what. I looked at a local guidepost for direction, except there was only one destination on it:
There is only one direction!! ONE!
I thought this was some kind of joke until I looked on Inspirock and realized others had run into this same situation:
So okay, Trao Beach it was! At least I could ride a air-conditioned van there from the park for free. Since it was October, there wasn’t many people there so I could relax and enjoy it all I wanted. It was essentially a private beach. This was one of the scenarios where it was not about the destination, but they journey. I had a lot of nice time thinking to myself and listening to all my favorite music. The tiki statues and chairs made out of tires that I saw here also added to the ambiance:
Even though there wasn’t a lot to see at Sun World, being on a remote tropical island was more fun than being stuck in the city. What’s interesting is that some pictures of the park online show a water park, but it only seems to be open during certain seasons. There was no mention of it when I went in 2018 so I wonder if it’s under renovation. I saw all sorts of construction going on in the main pavilion near the restaurant I was eating at. I would guess that there is some plan to expand this park because it is in a beautiful area that has a lot of nature. It really could become something amazing!
Is it worth it?
The cost for the cable car ticket is around $15 USD (roundtrip) and entrance to the park is around $25 USD. This actually isn’t that bad for a day on an island in Vietnam, but you could definitely go cheaper. If you have an extra day to kill this excursion is great because of the unique cable car view—especially if you have a camera. However, there may be only one destination available when you reach the island… you won’t know until you get there!
Upon further research, I noticed there is another amusement park called Sun World Ba Na Hills in Vietnam with the same logo (so they must be owned by the same company). Search engines are likely confusing them in English. Perhaps Phu Quoc’s Sun World (the one I visited) is going to be designed as a miniature version of the larger one. Who knows? I hope to return to Vietnam and visit the other, larger, park when it’s safe so I can expand this article!
In my last article I talked about my expedition of Long Beach on Phu Quoc Island, but in this article I will talk about some of the other places that I ventured to outside of my hut! I would recommend staying at least 3 full days on this island because between the beaches and the central town, there’s a lot of neat things to see. I spent my mornings swimming on the beach and evenings chasing sunsets. It was truly the best 25th birthday I could have imagined!
The inside of a mini Cao Dai Temple in Duong Dong Town.
Since I wanted to see as much as possible on the island, I booked a day tour of the north and south sides of the island through Viet Fun Travel. This is a completely private tour run by Phu Quoc locals, so it’s very high-rated and you can customize it to your liking. I asked that they please take me to the Ridgeback Dog Farm because I wanted to feed the Phu Quoc dogs. They happily complied with my request and created a custom itinerary for me.
Unfortunately because I was by myself this tour cost $195 USD which is very expensive, but since there are not many ways of transportation on Phu Quoc Island it was worth the money. If you bring more people with you the price will drastically decrease. Since these islanders don’t always make a lot during the low season, I didn’t feel regret spending this much for a quality tour. It was fun and I got to experience so much! My tour guide was very nice too.
Here are the places that we stopped at. This tour lasted about 10 hours and included hotel pickup:
Pearl Farm & Fish Sauce Factory
Truc Lam Ho Quoc Meditation
Sao Beach
Coconut Tree Prison
Phu Quoc Ridgeback Dog Farm
Nguyen Trung Truc Temple
Passing Cape Ganh Dau
Vung Bau Beach & Ong Lang Beach
Our first stop was the pearl farm and the fish sauce factory. Fish sauce is Phu Quoc’s most famous food and is exported all over the country. I got to see how it was fermented in giant barrels which was pretty neat. The “pearl farm” was a museum of pearls mostly geared towards selling them, but I didn’t mind seeing it for a short amount of time. The pearls were so gorgeous. If only I could afford them! My tour guide bought me a sugar cane drink to sip on during the drive. It was super sweet and full of sugar as the name implies. There was also some mysterious green seaweed-like vegetable we tried.
The temples we saw on this tour were really beautiful too (unfortunately my photography skills from 2018 do not do them justice). Truc Lam Ho Quoc Meditation has a beautiful garden you can see when you reach the top. I enjoyed seeing the Choco-Pies that were placed in front of the deity at Nguyen Trung Truc Temple too. If I ever become a deity, I hope people place Choco-Pies in front of me too.
We next stopped at the Coconut Tree Prison that was built by French Colonists to imprison Vietnamese soldiers during the Vietnam War. Many tortures were performed here such as caging humans and burning off their flesh. I didn’t take many photos because it was grotesque, but you can Google it for yourself and see just how horrible it was. I was grateful for the personal tour because I never knew that there was a prison here! Most people that visit Vietnam only get to see the Hoa Lo Prison in Hanoi, as the Coconut Tree Prison is quite remote.
After that gruesome reminder of Vietnamese history was over, we stopped for my birthday lunch at a local Vietnamese restaurant. Everything was on the house~ Cheers to turning 25 on Phu Quoc!!
At the restaurant we ate octopus, fried rice with blue crab, and I tried snails for the very first time! The snails kind of taste like sautéed mushrooms but are chewy. I recommend trying them at least once if you get the chance. The flavor is actually quite enjoyable. The best part about this restaurant was definitely the atmosphere. Even though I was a tourist, I felt at home here.
We rode briefly through the central town of Duong Dong so our driver could get gas. This is the largest town on the island just north of my island hut. There is a seafood market and many temples and pagodas you can see. We stopped briefly to see a Cao Dai temple before continuing our tour so I could rest for a bit. If I ever some back to Phu Quoc, I would like to stay in this town for just one night to see what it’s like!
Next we stopped at the Phu Quoc Ridgeback Dog Farm so I could feed the dogs. For some reason this was one of the most anticipated stops for me! Phu Quoc dogs are some of the rarest and most expensive breeds in the world. They are extremely independent and love roaming the beaches. During the high seasons you can watch them race through courses and place bets on them. Since I was here in October, I could only pet and feed them, but that was fine by me. They were absolutely adorable:
My tour guide was extremely kind and gave me an extra bag of food. He knew pretty much everyone on the island so people were always giving us souvenirs. After I had fed every dog on the farm (and I mean EVERY dog), we decided to hit the southern Sao beaches. I didn’t take a lot of pictures because I was swimming, but it was extremely surreal to see cows grazing out here:
While I was swimming my tour guide told me I could stay out here as long as I liked because he was practicing meditation with an mp3. I stayed until sunset and got to soak up a lot of sun. Everyone that is native to this island practices spirituality, but they never try to force their beliefs upon you. I really enjoyed every single moment here even though my time was short.
I would recommend this tour to fellow adventurers because it truly takes you everywhere. I was exhausted by the end of my trip and was thankful I could rest in my hut. My next article will be the last of my Vietnam series! Thank you to all that have read up to this point.
When people think of tropical destinations in Asia, Vietnam usually isn’t high on the list. Most people in Japan flock to Okinawa, Thailand, Philippines, Guam, or even the Gold Coast in Australia for vacation. I wanted to experience something different so I decided to fly to Phu Quoc Island in Vietnam from Hanoi and stay in a beach hut on my 25th birthday in 2018. This was one of my first times staying on a remote island alone, but it was completely safe and turned out to be one of the best birthdays of my life!
I stayed on Phu Quoc for four days and three nights and managed to learn a lot about the island culture of Vietnam. Being here is completely different than from being in the city which is truly eye-opening. In Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh you’ll get a lot of stares and attention from the locals, but here you’ll find complete and total privacy:
Getting to Phu Quoc
A roundtrip flight from Hanoi to Phu Quoc only costs $65 through VietJet and takes two hours so it is quite cheap and easy to plan out. I’ve researched other islands in Vietnam such as Cat Ba, but Phu Quoc is by far the most beautiful. Long Beach is the best place to stay on the island because it has a lot of restaurants and you can see the best view of the sunset. The beach looks pretty 24/7, but swimming in the ocean and watching the sky turn that lovely mixture of pink, blue, and red makes it feel as if you are living inside of a painting:
The island hut I stayed at was called Viet Than Resort. I chose this resort because I liked the design of the thatched huts and it was only around $35 per night. Plus it was right on the beach and had a swimming pool too! I came during the off-season in October, but I still had a lot of fun here because the weather was perfect. I spent my entire first day here exploring Long Beach and going swimming. It was definitely the relaxation that I needed after several days of trekking through the populated cities.
Cuisine on Phu Quoc is cheap, healthy, and extremely satisfying. I tried a restaurant near my hotel and ordered seafood ramen and an omelette. After hours of swimming, this was exactly what I needed!
Another perk of staying here is you’ll often run into Phu Quoc dogs. An islander informed me that these dogs are friendly towards people but completely independent. They’ll let people wash and feed them, but they spend most of their time frolicking on the beaches. I wish I were a Phu Quoc dog!
Unlike places in Thailand and Bali, Phu Quoc is NOT a party island. It does have a lot of bars and places to socialize, but you won’t find any recreational drugs here. I really wish that there were more islands in Japan like this. I went to Okinawa for my first birthday in Japan and had fun, but it does not have a lot of beach huts and the best beaches require renting a car or riding a infrequent bus to reach. I liked Phu Quoc because everything was accessible, and if I needed to get somewhere I could use Grab or ask my hotel to call a cheap taxi service. This would honestly not be a bad place to retire.
In my next article, I’ll be talking about my island tour and how I rode a cable car to Sun World! Thank you all for reading my Vietnam article series! Though this happened almost 2 years ago, this island is still a very popular resort destination and a place that I would recommend to all my friends. It’s really easy to have fun here no matter what your budget is.
After exploring the east and west side of Jeju Island and climbing Mt. Hallasan, I decided to spend my final day on the island relaxing and seeing some of the places that most tours don’t cover (such as the sex museum and private beaches). Since I don’t have an international license, I had my hostel help book me a private taxi driver. The average cost of private taxi drivers in Jeju is about $150 USD per day but hiring one is much easier than trying to use the local buses. The duration of the taxi session is around 9 hours and you can easily see all of the things you want to see without hassle. Hilariously, all the English-speaking drivers were booked already due to high demand but I was able to book a Japanese one. Without further hesitation I set off for my fifth and final day on the island and hoped for the best! Fortunately the weather was on my side.
See Iho Tewoo Beach & Gwakji Beach
Jeju has around eight popular swimming beaches in total, but I chose to travel to the two most photogenic ones. Iho Tewoo Beach is famous for its two horse-shaped lighthouses. I wanted to see them in person so this was the very first destination I chose! Unfortunately it was bit too cold to go swimming, but I just liked being on an empty and relaxing beach. Apparently this beach is extremely popular during the summer because you can go for boat rides here, but during late April when I went it was extremely peaceful and quiet. Just what I wanted after all of the exhausting hiking that I did!
I picked up some amazing octopus at a nearby restaurant here. Raw Korean octopus tastes amazing:
After I had my fill, I decided to head to Gwakji Beach which is much livelier because there are a lot of resorts around it. None of the resorts on Jeju are particularly fancy, but the cafes sure are. I decided to try Mônsant which is owned by G-DRAGON purely because of its flawless architectural design. You can see the ocean through the panes of glass while sipping on delicious coffee. I ordered a strawberry smoothie and couldn’t believe the view that I was seeing:
I tried to go swimming here, but the beach shore was a bit rocky so I was reluctant. Jeju’s beaches are more designed for soaking up the atmosphere rather than actually getting soaked. I didn’t mind though, because Gwakji Beach definitely had a nice vibe. In addition to posh cafes there were squids being sun-dried and local food stalls around. I appreciated the diversity of food here.
One hilarious and slightly creepy trend here I saw was having photos of couples and babies printed onto lattes. I’m usually quite adventurous when it comes to food, but I don’t know if I’d have the courage to drink myself… This is just too realistic:
WOW!
Nexon Computer Museum
The next stop was my favorite museum of all time in Korea: The Nexon Computer Museum. Nexon is the company responsible for creating Maple Story and the longest running commercial graphic MMO in the world: Baram, also known as Nexus: The Kingdom of the Winds. I was really surprised to see that a modest company in Korea had this award; which makes me think that Nexon is seriously underrated so naturally I wanted to learn more.
I featured this museum in my Top 3 Most Innovative Art & Technology Museums article, so please check it out for the full description! If you travel all the way to Jeju, you need to come here. You won’t be disappointed.
Museum of Sex and Health (Jeju Loveland)
Ah yes, the infamous Sex Museum of Korea. I’ll admit I was a bit embarrassed coming here by myself, but I was on vacation so I figured why the hell not? Jeju Loveland is an art museum of erotic outdoor sculptures and has an indoor collection of various adult toys. What’s good is that it promotes a safe approach to sex and only admits entry to adults (honestly I’ve seen enough pedophilia in Japan bookstores and this was a much classier attraction). “Various romantic and sexual art works are waiting for you.” the official website says. I liked the ambiguity of the upside-down sculptures submerged in water… But I’ll leave the rest up to your imagination. Definitely see it if it fancies you!
Entrance Fee: $9 USD (not bad)
Jeju Horse Park
Before having my driver drop me off at the airport so I could take my flight back to Seoul, I decided to make one more stop at Jeju Horse Park. I was wearing the most extra outfit because I was shooting pictures on the beach just before, but once again I figured why not! I was on vacation and I wanted to ride a horse one last time. This was the perfect way to end my Jeju Chronicles. I had successfully accomplished everything that I had planned so this was yet another perfect trip to commemorate. The park has a really laidback approach and you can choose multiple routes around the mountains and seaside. I couldn’t use my camera because I was riding, but I had an amazing time! There was a guide who was keeping close watch on me so I felt safe at all times. Horseback riding is a great way to see Jeju Island and is relatively cheap so you should try it at least once while you’re here.
Entrance Fee: $10-$20 USD depending on how long you go.
Final Remarks
As this article implies, I had a phenomenal time on Jeju Island and would recommend it to all my friends. There were a few issues with the language barrier here and there, but island people are some of the friendliest people that you will ever meet. I really treasured all of my time here. I was also able to speak Japanese in a few instances and find my way around. Google Maps aren’t always reliable in South Korea so I would do your research on what attractions you want to see before coming here. That’s it really. Once you arrive at Jeju, you’ll find that the island is small enough that you can easily navigate and fit in all the activities you want. Jeju is by far the most beautiful place in South Korea and you should definitely give it a chance because it has activities for everyone!
After getting a good dose of cycling and an impromptu dance party on Udo Island, I figured I’d spend my 2nd day in Jeju climbing Korea’s tallest mountain: Mt. Hallasan. It’s actually not just a mountain— it’s an active volcano too! Fortunately for us, it hasn’t erupted in over 1,000 years and doesn’t spew lava so it’s safe to climb. Reaching the summit will give you the best view of the island which is why I wanted to take on the challenge. I’ve climbed Mt. Fuji in Japan which was quite the strenuous hike of 3,776 meters. Hallasan is still challenging, but is only 1,947 meters and has a lovely forest you can see on your way up. I found the hike to be pleasant and surprisingly relaxing.
Hallasan National Park is in the center of the main Jeju island and is quite easy to get to from any accommodation. It only took me around 45 mins via bus from my hostel. The mountain has four main trails, but only two will take you all the way to the top. I decided to start at the Seongpanak Trail then take the Gwaneumsa Trail down. This is the best way to see Hallasan as you can reach the summit and fully experience all the sights on the main trails within 8 – 10 hours. If you want a shorter hike, you can try Eorimok Trail or Yeongsil Trail which only take 2 hours. I did not hike them, but from looking at pictures that others have posted I can see that they have similar scenery to the beginning of the main trails. I never guessed that Korea would have such beautiful mountains, but I was surprised to see how jaw-dropping the views were the further I climbed:
I started climbing around 8:30am and bought a small bottle of Korean Sochu from a convenience store at the base so I could take little shots of it as I climbed up the mountain. Fortunately my hostel provided free breakfast so with 3 pieces of egg toast I knew I would have the energy to go all the way. I listened to all of my favorite music while walking through the forest and had a nice little reflection on life. Here I was in Korea again. I found out there’s way more to this country than K-pop, cosmetics, and partying in Seoul and Busan. These violet flora I kept seeing were absolutely beautiful. Before I knew it, I was walking up the stairs and could vaguely make out the peak. Of course it looked closer than it actually was, but it was still within my sight. This was honestly much more peaceful than my Fuji hike because there weren’t nearly as many people. I could focus on the views and climb with ease in anticipation of climbing my first active volcano.
Initially the temperature was mild so the climb was very easy. I wasn’t sweating or noticing a huge incline so I didn’t need to stop for many breaks. As I started seeing signs that indicated the summit was near, the air felt cooler and I noticed there was snow on the ground. It was then I realized the mistake that I had made—I wasn’t wearing enough layers!! I was only wearing a t-shirt, shorts, and a waterproof Nike jacket so I didn’t have any heatwear. Fortunately the cold didn’t bother me due to the adrenaline that was pumping through my veins. Plus I’ve gone running in the snow in Michigan wearing shorts before, so I suppose this wasn’t the first time I had been exposed to this kind of temperature. The wind started to make my cheeks turn red, but by that point I had already reached the top.
Seeing this beautiful crater lake Baengnokdam (백록담/白鹿潭) was my reward:
The lake at the summit of Mt. Hallasan.
I was so happy to not only have climbed Japan’s tallest mountain, but now Korea’s too!! I actually enjoyed this more than Fuji due to it being shorter and having the crater lake at the top. Not to mention that there were far less people. I would recommend climbing both if you are a nature enthusiast traveling through Asia. The feeling of looking down at the island once you’ve reached the top is one of pure victory. I enjoyed experiencing snow on a sub-tropical island even if I was unprepared for it too.
Here is a video of us climbing towards the top:
After snapping a bunch of pictures, I started my descent on the Gwaneumsa Trail. I was still freezing, but fortunately the further I climbed down the faster my body temperature returned to normal. I was high on adrenaline and knew food was waiting for me at the bottom too, so that was my main motivation!
The Gwaneumsa Trail was initially a bit steep to climb down, but provided me with some gorgeous mountain views. There was also a sign warning us to steer clear of wild boars. Who would have guessed they were native to Korea!! I found that getting down took less time than I expected, so I completed the climb in around 8 hours. Not bad for my first big climb of the year. I celebrated with some Korean seafood pancakes by a place near the trail entrance. I tried to use a map to figure out the bus schedule, but unfortunately I didn’t have any service and was informed that buses are really infrequent here. Despite the language barrier, the store owners were kind enough to call a taxi for me that wasn’t very expensive. I was very thankful for my experience and also that the weather stayed nice!
After my hike I decided to try a hot spring in Jeju, because why not? Tapdong Seawater Sauna (which is now sadly closed) was closest to my hotel so I decided to walk there. Two things about it really amazed me. The first was that you could go swimming in certain baths. Usually at Japanese onsen, swimming is forbidden. However, Jeju has a huge female diving community, so I could see where this makes sense. The second was that Korean people brought water with them into the sauna. That is also not allowed in Japan, but with the super hot temperature I could see why people did it. The culture here was a lot more laid back which I really enjoyed. The concierge jokingly called me an alcoholic because I was still carrying soju around with me, but I laughed and said it’s because I just climbed Hallasan and I was on vacation. It was hard to believe that this was only my second day!!
During Golden Week of 2018 I decided to venture to Korea for the 2nd time and explore its most famous beach resort island: Jeju. This island is extremely unique because not only does it have the best beaches in Korea, but it also has the Nexon Computer Museum with the world’s longest running MMO. There’s also the tallest mountain in Korea (Mt. Hallasan), a folk village with traditional houses, and a fairly famous sex museum. As you can see, Jeju has something for everybody because there is a huge diversity of attractions to see. A lot of people that live close to Korea come here to spend their honeymoons or school vacations, but there are many backpackers like me who travel here too. In this article series I will be detailing my 5 day stay in Jeju in hopes that other people will decide to come in the future.
Traveling to Jeju
The best way to travel to Jeju is to take a direct flight from Seoul. Jeju Air has the cheapest flights that range from $30 – $50 USD roundtrip. The flight only takes about an hour. Jeju is comparable in Okinawa in Japan, but is much smaller and doesn’t have as many islands you can travel to. However, traveling here is much cheaper than most islands in Japan and it has a different vibe. One of the best islands you can visit in Jeju is called Udo which is the very first place I went.
Udo Island Day Trip
Udo Island was my first destination once I reached Jeju Airport. Fortunately you don’t need to fly here and can instead take a relaxing 15 minute ferry. The reason I wanted to go to Udo is because it is the perfect cycling destination. The island was named for its somewhat rectangular shape that looks like cow lying down. I also chuckled because the name reminded me of U-DO in Xenosaga. You can see most of the attractions on Udo within 3 – 4 hours via electric bike. E-bikes can be rented for around $10 per day and are extremely worth it. This was my very first time riding an e-bike, but fortunately it wasn’t scary! You can see the ocean from any point in Udo making it a wonderful spot for photography. Everyone rides slow so they can stop to take pictures.
Since I was starving, I stopped at a local seafood restaurant near the bike rental shop. I couldn’t speak much Hangul but I was able to place an order. They whipped me up some spicy crab and muscle stew which tasted amazing. For dessert, I decided to try the peanut ice cream that Udo is famous for. They placed two adorable teddy bear crackers on it too. The salty and sweet combination makes it worthy of all the praise that it gets. You can find this food literally all over the island and it’s much cheaper than food in Seoul.
Finally feeling full, I decided to make my way down to the beaches. Gwakji Beach and Hamdeok Beach were my two personal favorites. Both can be reached via e-bike in less than 30 minutes and are found on the north side. Exploring these beaches can take up to an hour. I came here in late April so it was a bit cold to swim but the weather was near perfect. Korea’s weather is similar to Japan’s but is slightly more mild.
Besides the swimming and biking, there are many other exciting things to do on Udo. You can go horseback riding for a short time if you talk to someone near the stables. If you like art, most of the buildings are painted in bright colors and there are murals all over the island. The food here never disappoints. The octopus-shaped bread I tried was filled with cheese and absolutely amazing. Just the atmosphere of being on a small beach island is awesome too. I enjoyed walking inside the the giant shells that were near the pier and also petting the store owner’s dogs. Everyone here is extremely friendly so you don’t have to worry about the language barrier.
On my way back to return my e-bike, I stumbled upon one of the best DJ booth turned ice cream shop ever. The chef was spinning some fresh island beats as he was whipping up ice cream. This was an extremely rare vibe that I was not expecting:
The store Udo Prince Story (우도왕자이야기) has both phenomenal food and music. If you come all the way out here, be sure not to miss out. This was the best instant dance party I ran into here and was the perfect way to end my day trip.
After an exciting first day in Udo, I rode the ferry back to the main island where my accommodation “GreenDay” was. There are a few hotels on Udo, but there is much more selection and nightlife on the main island of Jeju.
I chose GreenDay because I thought the name was hilarious and the dorms are only $15 per night. I couldn’t pass up staying in this colorful little house:
Taking a “Holiday” at GreenDay.
GreenDay Address: 251-9 Samdoi-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
Udo Access
I took a cheap taxi to Seongsan Port, then a 15 minute ferry to reach the island. The ferry ticket is only $10 one way. Please see the Udo Ferry Time Table for reference.
In my next article, I will be talking about some of the quirky museums that I explored. Please stay tuned for more!
Welcome to Naoshima—Japan’s obscure avant-garde island full of art museums, beaches, and outdoor sculptures. Since I am a lover of all things aesthetic, I couldn’t pass up the chance to go here while I was traveling through Okayama. This island is very small but has a lot to see. It’s well-known among art enthusiasts and travelers that like to go off the beaten path. The most iconic piece of art you’ll find is the giant yellow pumpkin at the pier designed by Yayoi Kusama, but there’s an artistic sense all around here. Even if you’re not a huge fan of art, it’s really fun to go cycling and swimming here because it’s quite secluded from the rest of Japan. This island is actually part of Shikoku though you can access it from Honshu too. I’ll be detailing my full experience in this article!
Getting around Naoshima
From the net cafe I was staying overnight at (Jiyuu Kuukan), I walked to Okayama Station and rode the Seto-Ohashi Line to Chayamachi Station, then took the Uno Line to Uno Station for 50 mins total. From Uno Station, I walked to the nearby port and rode a ferry for 30 mins to Naoshima island. These ferries are frequent and leave almost every hour (see time table here). It was a very fun ride and the weather was perfect too!
I rented a bike for 500 yen/day because cycling is the best way to see all of Naoshima. The whole island takes about 2.5 hours total to cycle around and is pretty easy to navigate because it’s circular. However, it’s easy to spend a whole day here because there are so many museums to see. There are many hostels and resorts you can stay overnight at too. I didn’t stay overnight here, but I really want to next time!
I started my trip by riding my bike to Gotanji Bathing Beach where the giant yellow pumpkin is. I spent around an hour here swimming and seeing all of the Picasso-esque statues that line the beach area. I met a mix of both Japanese and international travelers who were very friendly. There was a giant raft in the middle of the swimming area where I actually took a nap on! That’s how relaxing it is here~
After feeling refreshed from the ocean, I decided to make my way around to the major museums. Some are free to enter but others have admission fees. I would research them beforehand budget around 3000 – 6000 yen depending on what you want to see.
Exploring the Museums
The main museums worth seeing on the island are:
Benesse House – Museum by the beach with indoor and outdoor exhibits. They combine their hotel with the “coexistence of nature, art and architecture” and are responsible for many projects on the island.
Chichu Art Museum – An ambient museum built mostly underground. The natural light plays a huge role in seeing the artwork here.
Lee Ufan Museum – A contemporary art museum consisting of stones and two-dimensional paintings. His art has a tranquil feeling when paired with the seaside viewpoint.
Ando Museum – A traditional wooden house that uses creative architecture to contrast light and shadow and the past from the present.
Teshima Art Museum – This is a famous art museum located on the nearby Teshima Island that resembles a water droplet and is perfect for photography.
Art House Projects – A series of small houses with a variety of different art from different artists. For a full list, please see the Benesse Art Project Site.
*Please note that photography is not allowed at all museums, but is okay outside most places.
One of the most interesting things I saw was the light-up ‘Live & Die’ piece at Benesse House (pictured in the very top photos). The words on the boards all have different associations with life and death. While the lights faded, a Japanese man walked up and spread his arms out, as if embracing the words it had projected. It was one of the coolest reactions I have ever witnessed at an art museum in my life. I also saw a graveyard outside of the Lee Ufan museum. Its juxtaposition with the art made me think more on the concept of life and death. I did a lot of reflecting this day and it was very good for my mental heath. That’s why I’m planning to come back here in the summer again and see all the spots that I missed!
Food & Drinks
There are restaurants, bakeries, and cafes all over the island so you can easily find a place that catches your interest. I had cold soba noodles and matcha bread with anko for lunch at a place called Aisunao. It was all homemade food and tasted amazing! When I got back to Okayama, I drank a drink that smiled back at a Tiki Bar. You seriously can find great selection here wherever you look!
Bathing in a Artsy Bath
Before I took the ferry back, I decided to bathe at the artsy bath called I♥湯 (I love you). The outside of the bath house has an aesthetic mosaic design that looks like no other bath house in Japan. The indoor area has equally beautiful architecture. It was a great way to end the trip. The entrance fee is only 660 yen.
Exploring other Islands
One regret I have is that I didn’t look into exploring the two smaller art islands you can access from Naoshima: Inujima & Teshima. Both islands can be reached from Naoshima in less than 20 mins. Benesse has a nice two-day itinerary where you can see all the major works of the three islands. I will be going back hopefully later this year to see the small things that I missed!
Access
I mentioned the route that I took above, but there are multiple ways to get to Naoshima. Please see the Benesse site for more information.
After riding camels through the desert of Japan, I decided to take a day trip to Iwami—a beautiful beach town on the west coast of Japan; also known as the real-life location of the swimming anime Free! Iwami is a small and rural town, but doing sightseeing around the beaches will keep you busy for hours. This place is perfect for people who love water sports and fishing that need a break from the city. Besides Okinawa, I think Iwami has some of the best beaches in Japan. If you rent a bike and ride around the coast it’s quite easy to find your own private beach to relax on. It truly felt like a hidden oasis to me. Plus I got to see yet another inspiration for one of my favorite series!
When I arrived at Iwami Station, I was thrilled to to find a mini Free! shrine dedicated to all of the characters. A life-sized version of the bird-like school mascot also greeted me. There were framed photos, guestbooks that you could draw in, and a whole desk of fan-made items dedicated to Rin’s birthday. Seeing all of the time that went into this made me happy that I could be a part of it too. Iwami is definitely a gem even if you aren’t a fan of the anime.
In addition to all of the character goods, they also had maps that mark all of the major sightseeing points from the anime (they hilariously said “Take Free” on the front):
I decided to rent a bike at the Iwami Tourism Office located next to the station for 500 yen per day. Biking is the best way to see the entire town and saves you a lot of time and money. I would allow 4-6 hours here depending on how long you want to go swimming.
The old-school road bike I rented wasn’t half-bad. I also bought some cookies as an offering to my favorite character Haru. After checking my map, I decided to head to the Uradome swimming area because that is the main beach featured in the anime. It’s fortunately just a short ride from the station, and seeing all of the rock formations that surround the town on the way there is amazing. I spent about an hour here swimming then road my bike to a rockier area with less people. Treading the rocks hurt my feet a bit, but once you get in the water you will feel the best adrenaline rush.
This was my favorite beach that I found (you can search “Uradome Coast Oguri beach beaches” on Googles Maps to find the exact location):
Please swim here with caution because there aren’t as many lifegaurds here as the main swimming area. There are literally beaches all over the town so you can find the one that suits you the best. There are sandier ones in central Uradome you can easily access.
In Uradome you’ll also notice an island with a torii which is quite a famous lookout point. Near it is Tajiri Port which is used for fishing and transporting goods. These places were referenced in the anime as well:
After swimming to my heart’s content, I decided to explore more of Iwami by going on a boat tour at Uradome Coast Island Tour. The “Pleasure Boat” boat tour is 1400 yen and around 40 mins. I highly recommend this tour because you can get up and close to the unique rock formations that this area is famous for. Plus it feels like an adventure:
After my little boating excursion, I decided to end my trip by hiking to Tajiri Shrine. Luckily it’s not too far from the port. One of the most unique parts of the town is you can actually see Makoto’s house here! It is located near the top of Tajiri Shrine:
The real-life version of Makoto’s house from Free!
When I reached the top of the shrine, I was surprised to find a Rin cosplayer there! Like me, she was a huge fan of the series and decided to spend her time here during the summer. We talked and actually became really good friends. I still stay in touch with her though I traveled here nearly 3 years ago. I really regret not staying in Iwami overnight so I could see the sunset and the sunrise, but I plan on coming back here in the future!
Access
From Tottori Station, take the Nikko Bus for either Iwai/Kabushima or Iwai/Nagatanibashi and get off at Iwami Station. This takes around 50 mins and costs 700 yen.
If you are coming from a larger city, I highly recommend flying to Tottori Station because you will save a lot of money. Please see my previous article for more information.
While I was in Tottori, I stayed in a net cafe that is now permanently closed because I was short on cash. However, there are more net cafes and better places that you can stay in. Please see booking for better options!
Throughout my travels in Asia, I’ve managed to stumble upon some pretty awe-inspiring museums. I enjoy traditional art as well as hands-on modern exhibits found in galleries around the world today. My favorite museums are those that combine innovative technology with art and science—shattering perceived ideas and adding a whole other dimension to the viewer’s experience.
I’ve compiled a list of my top 3 favorites museums in Asia that are phenomenal examples of how innovative technology can be used to break the borders of art as we know it (starting from the top):
1. The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (Kanazawa, Japan)
ｐｏｏｌ’ｓ ｏｐｅｎ
Mana Pool. What you see here might just be my favorite exhibition in the world. This image looks like some kind of mirage or frozen frame from a vaporwave music video, but there are actually living, breathing people going about their daily routines under the waters of this pool. You can even “dive in” and join them—but you can’t jump or use the ladder. Instead you must reach the underwater zone from another entrance (which can easily be found by following the signs).
This pool was constructed with a limestone deck at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa, Japan (shortened to Kanazawa 21). A thin layer of water is contained in transparent glass giving it the look of a real swimming pool. However, underneath the glass is an underground room that is completely empty. From the point of view of those who stand at the surface, you can create the illusion that you are walking underwater by taking a staircase beside the pool. It truly is a vaporwave dream that has been realized by the power of aesthetics and science.
In addition to the pool, there are various rooms with simulations you can enter. My personal favorite was “The Killing Machine”. Photography was not allowed in some areas, so I will leave the contents up to your imagination. I found some neat aviation and space exhibits when I first visited. Some exhibits rotate, so please check the Exhibition page for the most recent ones.
This museum is an important part of Kanazawa’s culture because it draws a large number of people to the city. Its design is very modern but somehow fits in the center of Kanazawa’s historic streets because it has a beautiful outdoor park and is near the Kenrokuen Gardens. The outside of the museum has free exhibits you can see as well.
Here is my pool-walking video that I took in 2017. The Swimming Pool is a permanent exhibit that can be seen year round so I hope to return and take better quality videos in the future.
Access
1 Chome-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-8509 Entrance Fee: 360 yen for temporary exhibitions (some exhibits are free)
2. Nexon Computer Museum (Jeju, Korea)
Over Golden Week I traveled to the island of Jeju in Korea, but instead of the beaches (which are by far the best in Korea) I was most drawn to the iconic Nexon Computer Museum. Nexon is the company responsible for creating Maple Story and the longest running commercial graphic MMO in the world: Baram, also known as Nexus: The Kingdom of the Winds. I was really surprised to see that a modest company in Korea had this award; which makes me think that Nexon is seriously underrated so naturally I wanted to learn more.
When I entered the museum, a wall full of lockers shaped like keys greeted me. Instantly I was impressed with the on-point aesthetics here. The cafe also had keyboard-shaped waffles, or what you’d call “sticky keys” which was another reason I had to travel all the way out here.
The museum is split into 4 floors; starting with the history of computing, then videogames and educational programs, and finally arcades in the basement! I felt a strange sense of nostalgia but also was fascinated with some of the original things that Nexon had worked on. From fantasy MMORPGs to EA Sports, there was quite a repertoire of games you could play here. They also had collections of old Apple computers and the infamous Nintendo Power Glove on display here.
Here is the Guinness World Record for The Kingdom of the Winds on display which was originally launched in 1996:
Access
3198-8 1100(Cheonbaek)-ro, Nohyeong-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea Entrance Fee: ￦8,000
3. Open Air Museum (Hakone, Japan)
Arguably the best open air vaporwave museum in existence.
While day tripping to Hakone from Tokyo, I discovered the loveliest museum with a stained glass cathedral, Persona-esque sculptures, and even a foot bath outside of the cafe! The Hakone Open Air Museum is almost entirely outdoors and is close to Mt. Fuji so you have the perfect mountain backdrop for your viewing experience. Right as I entered I was greeted by a marble head floating in an empty pool that gave me massive リサフランク420 vibes. There is an indoor Picasso Exhibition Hall as well, but the main draw is the abstract sculptures and mysterious moats on the outskirts:
These sculptures are said to symbolize the balance of harmony and art, but some of them are warped beyond belief and seem to represent a feeling of discord or solitude. I personally thought they looked a lot like shadows from the Persona series; especially the ones wearing masks. However you interpret it, you’ll definitely have a good time here. Especially if you bring some good music.
Here is one of the best shots I captured by climbing up the cathedral with my old camera:
Mori Art Museum (Tokyo) – This museum is one of the most frequently visited ones in Japan due of its upscale art and central access. I visited it once and thought it was nice to see, but the exhibits change frequently so it’s hard for me to gauge it. There wasn’t a piece that really stood out to me like in other galleries I’ve visited, but it is worth seeing if you’re interested in modern art.
Benesse House (Naoshima) – An contemporary art museum on a remote art project island in Shikoku, Japan. There is a beach nearby that you can go swimming at, and it’s absolutely gorgeous! I will be writing more about this quirky art island in a future article.
teamLab: Everyone is talking about this “borderless” art museum, and it is undoubtedly one of the most high-tech in the world. I’ve been to both the Planets and the new museum that opened up in Odaiba. Both have blown me away with how much work was put into the lighting with the interactive exhibits. It almost feels like you’re living in a neon hologram when you walk through some rooms. However, due to this museum’s popularity, you can only see some exhibits for a short period of time. Unfortunately due to the crowds it is sometimes difficult to fully enjoy things here, but it is worth seeing.
*I will be expanding upon these honorable mentions in future articles. My travel plans have been slowed due to the COVID-19 pandemic so I am currently digging through my archive to create more content.
GoProing at the Gorge: Taroko Gorge turns out to not be a tourist trap, but instead an unspoiled private paradise for hikers.
After exploring Yehliu Geopark and Jiufen, I hopped on the last train from Taipei’s Main Station and made my way to Hualien, a beautiful town surrounded by nature and the ocean on the east coast of Taiwan. My main destination here was Taroko National Park, arguably the most beautiful park in the country with its marble cliffs and gorges. The gorgeous blue color of the water reminded me a lot of the ocean that surrounds the Phi Phi Islands in Thailand. Though Taroko Gorge is more of a hiking spot than a place to swim, my tour guide allowed us to go swimming at the base of the Shakadang Trail! Even in January, the water felt surprisingly warm and refreshing. This place is truly unlike anywhere else in Taiwan and I definitely recommend people visit.
Due to its massive size Taroko is very difficult to cover in a day, but with a lot of online research, I managed to find The Better Taroko Gorge Tour which not only lets you pay in cash, but also accepts solo travelers (most tours to Taroko are extremely expensive and require group reservations). It is also one of the few tours that includes lunch, so I was extremely fortunate that I chose it or else I would have been starving! My excellent tour guide, Alan, took our group of seven people through the Swallow Grotto, two suspension bridges, the newly opened Tunnel Of Nine Turns that was previously closed due to an earthquake, and scenic the Bell Tower Padoga. We unfortunately were unable to hike up to the Eternal Spring Shrine due to road conditions, but we were able to see all of the highlights of the park on this tour in one day.
The tour started early at 7:30am, but we managed to avoid the crowds and I had a lot of time to capture photos and video with my newly purchased GoPro:
Most articles you read online recommend spending 2-3 days in this park if you are a hiking enthusiast, but one was enough for me because I was planning on seeing all of the major cities in Taiwan and also meeting up with friends. I was extremely satisfied with the challenge of the hike (it really wasn’t hard at all, minus some stairs) and also with all of the shrines I got to see. I would DEFINITELY recommend coming here with a tourguide, because riding in a van will save you a lot of time on the roads, and the guides know exactly where all the scenic spots here are. Coming alone is possible, but I think it would take much longer and be difficult to navigate and know which paths are safe to hike on. This park is not dangerous, but some of the slopes are affected by the weather so you need to be cautious while climbing them.
The Official Taroko Gorge Website has a list of trails that are currently available. Shakadang Trail, Changchun Trail, Swallow Grotto, and the Tunnel of Nine Turns are the paths I recommend taking (you can see all in a day if you have a car or skilled tour guide). We managed to see waterfalls and many temples too! Throughout the park you will see signs that say you need a permit to enter, but we were informed that such permits do not exist–this is just to warn tourists of potentially dangerous areas so the park does not get sued in case of injury. Enter these parts at your own risk (I hiked through one part, but it was literally nothing but green forest so I turned around as to not lose my way). In the middle of the day, we had a delicious course lunch at a restaurant in the mountains, and I had the chance to try Taiwanese mochi too:
At the end of the day, our tour guide took us to a nearby beach in Hualien where we could relax after a successful day of sightseeing. We were all amazed with the creative rock stacks (called cairns) here. The beach was literally full of them:
At the end of the day, I was completely exhausted and wanted to return to Taipei, so Alan kindly drove me to my hostel (called Cave) to get my luggage, and then back to the main Hualien Station where I could take the train back. I made an extremely kind friend on this trip who is currently working in Okinawa, so I was very happy with my experience. Island Life Taiwan is one of the best local guides for Taroko Gorge, and I would happily book them again if I decided to come back here in the future! The total cost was only 2000 Taiwan Dollars, which is much cheaper than most advertised tour packages. This was one of the best days that I had in Taiwan, and I will not forget the beautiful unspoiled paradise that is Taroko Gorge!
