After having some unique dining experiences in Ho Chi Minh, I decided to get out of the city and explore Black Virgin Mountain and the Cao Dai Temples on my 2nd day in Vietnam. These are two very historic places in the southern part that I highly recommend checking out. I booked a private tour through Get Your Guide because I wanted to hit as many destinations as possible and some are very difficult to reach alone. This journey also brought me to the Cu Chi Tunnels which is a massive underground network around the country. Seeing remnants of the Vietnam War was surreal and a memory that I’ll always carry with me.
The tour was a little over $100 which is pricier than most I’ve gone on, but my guide was excellent and matched my pace. This price also included the entrance fee to all of the places I was going to. I prefer spending my days outside of the city learning about history and culture while spending my nights at the local bars so I have a complete experience abroad. I was able to see and learn a lot in the time that I had which I am grateful for.
Black Virgin Mountain
The tour started at 7am and I was picked up directly from my hotel by my friendly tour guide. She was a Vietnamese student who spoke polished English and was very skilled at conversation. I was lucky to have met her! We boarded a small van and made our way to Black Virgin Mountain, an inactive volcano in the south of Vietnam. What makes this mountain so famous is its legend that has been passed down for generations.
As we boarded the cable car to the peak of the mountain, my guide told me the full story. The Legend of the Black Virgin actually has two variations. In one version she falls in deeply in love with a Khmer soldier. When he is drafted to war, she jumps off the mountain out of heart break and agony. In another version, she jumps off the mountain to protect her virginity when she is forced into an arranged marriage. In both versions, she is a lady with black skin who is highly devoted to Buddhism and purity. The legend is quite sad, but her faith and unyielding spirit is admirable. There are many altars where you can leave offerings in her memory.
When we got off the cable car we reached a market area and a series of temples. The cable car doesn’t take you all the way to the top, but you can easily reach the pagoda within 15 minutes of climbing. According to other travelers, the mountain takes around 6 hours to climb to the top and back. I am happy I rode the cable car because this was only my 2nd day here and I had a lot planned. Perhaps in the future I will attempt to climb a Vietnamese mountain!
It was fascinating seeing the design of the temples here because they were painted in extremely bright colors. They are similar to those in Thailand and Cambodia since they are bordering countries. The fresh fruit being sold at the market also tasted amazing! I also grabbed a bowl of Pho because it was cheap and the perfect food for exploring Vietnam. I also noticed some scorpion wine at a gift shop but I didn’t buy it.
My guide took me to a temple where you first pray and make a wish, then pick up 3 splinters of wood and drop them on the ground to determine your fate. If they all face the same way, then your wish will come true. I was fortunately able to make my wish come true on the very first try (you get 3 tries total). If you fail, it is highly implied that you can climb the mountain on another day and try again.
I’m not allowed to tell anyone my wish, but it has to do with traveling and connecting my aesthetic tastes with my career. Maybe starting this website was part of the prophecy…
After I finished paying my respects, I Mario Karted down the mountain. It was honestly the perfect way to end my trip to Black Virgin Mountain because my body was surging with adrenaline!
Cao Dai Temples
Our next stop was Cao Dai Temple that sits not far from the base of the mountain. It is famous for its beautiful architecture and the articulate painting of the sky in its main hall. This is hands down the most impressive temple that I saw while I was backpacking through Vietnam, so please check it out if you get the chance!
Caodaism is a mysterious religion that was founded in Vietnam in 1926, so it is fairly recent. The majority of Vietnamese people are non-religious or follow the teachings of Buddhism, but this religion is gradually gaining followers even in western countries. Cao Dai means “high tower” and is represented by the divine eye. Cao Dai blends Buddhism, Christianity, Taoism, Confucianism, and Islam. The worshippers wear white robes and perform several chants at the temple every day:
There is a scene from the movie Ghost in the Shell: Innocence that looks like it was influenced by Cao Dai Temple:
Though I’m not religious, being here made me feel very alive. It’s amazing to think about how much this religion has caught on!
Cu Chi Tunnels
The Cu Chi Tunnels are perhaps the most iconic attraction around Ho Chi Minh City because they were utilized in the Vietnam War. Fortunately we came late in the afternoon when not as many people were here. The cool thing about this museum is that it’s almost entirely outdoors and encased in a green forest. The tunnels have been widened so they’re easier for tourists to get through. I enjoyed see all the trap doors and hideaways hidden in foliage. There is also a large tank and shooting range you can check out. This museum doesn’t highlight the horrors of the war so much like the Hoa Lo Prison (which I’ll get into later). The Cu Chi Tunnels show a more strategic approach to how the Vietnam War was originally fought. I was surprised to know that there were a number of woman soldiers involved as well.
Overall, this was an amazing tour that lasted the whole day. I couldn’t believe that this was only my 2nd day here and that there were many more ahead! Look forward to the rest of my adventures~