Over the last two days, I decided to take a solo trip to Fukui Prefecture, one of the 6 prefectures of Japan I had yet to visit. My main two reasons for going were to see the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum and Ono Castle, which appears shrouded in clouds under certain weather conditions. The best time to photograph it is during the fall season so I decided to seize the opportunity in mid-October. Though very rural, Fukui has a rustic charm to it and also has delicious seafood since it is close to Kanazawa. I would recommend coming here after you have explored all of the major cities of Japan and are looking for something different as there is a lot of history here. The dinosaur museum is definitely the major draw for tourism but there are a lot of temples and castles to see too!
Getting to Fukui
Fukui is quite remote from Tokyo, so I flew from Haneda Airport to Komatsu Airport for around 25,000 yen through JAL Airlines then took a local bus to central Fukui. The flight took around one hour, and the bus ride took an additional hour. From Tokyo Station, the trip to Fukui Station is 3.5 hours and costs 15,000 yen one way, so flying is the cheaper option especially if you can book in advance.
While at Fukui Station, I enjoyed seeing all of the dinosaur themed foods, including sushi! Of course the sushi was mackeral flavored and not dinosaur flavored, but they really went hard with the marketing here and I respect the hustle. I treated myself to a crab ekiben which tasted amazing and went outside to see the giant dinosaur at the station square. It sure was a sight to see! Afterwards I decided to head directly to the city’s prized dinosaur museum.
Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum
From Fukui Station, I took the local train to Katsuyama where the dinosaur museum was located. On the way there, a the train attendant offered me a discount ticket to the museum which included roundtrip train and/or bus fare. The ticket cost 2600 yen but she subtracted my train ticket expensive from it so I only paid 1900 yen for it. This offer is currently available until the end of the year and I highly recommend it!
I was surprised to find that the dinosaur museum was larger than I expected with 4 floors, 2 cafes, and outdoor parks with large dinosaur models and a safari. There is a huge collection of fossils, dioramas, and skeletons that really do a good job in showing how these magnificent creatures came to life and evolved. My favorite part was the animatronics which looked shockingly realistic:
Out of all of the prefectures in Japan, the most dinosaurs have been unearthed from Fukui, including the Fukuititan! For a full list of everything that has been discovered here, please check out the Katsuyama City website. Additionally, each season a temporary exhibition is held, and during the time I came here it was sea dragon themed. It was really cool to learn that sea dragons actually existed in the form of the GurifoderumaKangi that was originally discovered in China. They really put a lot of effort into making their exhibits interactive and appealing to all ages which is why I give this museum a high rating.
Before leaving, I decided to grab a bite at the Saurus Kitchen and Dino Cafe. Both have very similar menus, but I wanted to try the dino pancakes and the tyranno parfait which are exclusive items. I was not disappointed because these two desserts really hit the spot and looked aesthetically pleasing. There’s also dino curry, ramen, and other dishes you can try here. You really can’t go wrong with this menu:
Overall I spent around 1.5 hours at this museum and could see why it was so hyped up. The dinosaur exhibits truly are massive and immerse you in a jurassic world. I have a newfound appreciation for Fukui Prefecture after seeing how much history it has!
Thank you for reading the first part of my Fukui article series. In my next article I will be talking about Ono Castle, more food, and accommodations so please stay tuned!
After an extremely fulfilling first day in Naha sipping on premium fruit cocktails and chilling at the Sanrio Resort, I planned to wander through neon aesthetic paradise at two recent attractions that had been added to the city since my last trip: Stem Resort and DMM Kariyushi Aquarium. I also wanted to hit the infinity pool at my new resort and reflect on life before flying to Miyakojima the next day.
I had a busy day ahead of me but fortunately was able to accomplish everything on my itinerary and meet many new friends in the process! If you come to Okinawa, you will never forget the friendliness of the people or the vividness of the city. I’m happy to say that day two of my trip was another brilliant success.
Stem Resort is a 4 floor amusement park that just opened last year consisting of the Hitasura Kawaii Museum, a dinosaur park, a waterpark with inflatables, and a rooftop bar with hot tubs. No matter what age you are you’re bound to find something here that strikes your interest here. Given my love for neon colors, the Hitasura Kawaii Museum is what attracted me here the most. When I first walked in I was greeted by a wall of donuts and rainbow popsicles dangling from the ceiling. There was a room with a giant high heel you could sit in and watch looping BLACKPINK music videos. The lip-shaped couch in the adjacent room was definitely relaxing to sit on and the room full of lanterns made me feel like I was back at the teamLab Borderless museum. Holy nostalgia. The neon sides and donut slide were also a great touch but I think my favorite room was the final one that had a ball pit full of rainbow alpacas. I took a nap in there and replenished my MP. I am so happy I could finally experience this new museum because it’s been on my bucket list for quite a long time.
Since it was still raining this day I was unable to check out the outdoor attractions, but I was extremely satisfied with what I saw indoors. I have already been to a dinosaur park in Okayama and plan on going to the unicorn inflatable park once I can finally enter the Philippines, so the Kawaii Museum was what I was truly most interested and fortunately got a ton of pictures there. For all of my life I will never forget the ball pit full of rainbow alpacas.
Address: 901-0225 Okinawa, Tomigusuku, Toyosaki, 3-35 屋上 Entrance Fee: Depends on what you want to see but I paid 1800 yen to enter and thought the experience was worth it!
DMM Kariyushi Aquarium
Have you ever dreamed of walking through an LSD aquarium filled with jellyfish tanks? Well look no further! And believe it or not, this is just one small exhibit that makes up the DMM Kariyushi Aquarium.
Though the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium that I visited in 2016 takes the crown for being the biggest and most diverse aquarium in Japan, the DMM Aquarium combines art with underwater life and also has a rainforest area. Its creative visuals and lighting definitely enhance the experience and almost make you feel like you are part of the exhibit! There is a room where you can take off your shoes and walk on a sealed panel to view all of the fish and sting rays swimming beneath your feet. I also got to see a sloth up close for the very first time in the rainforest area, and they even had a rare species of turtle here too!
I highly recommend trying the churros at the cafe. I bought them for the cute packing because I love tiny eels. This experience was so fun and had the best jellyfish exhibit that I had ever seen. If you’re looking for an artsy aquarium that is centrally located in Naha then this is your place!
Address: 3-35 Toyosaki, Tomigusuku, Okinawa 901-0225 Entrance Fee: 2400 yen
Vegan Omurice and Falafels at Ukishima Garden
Continuing my theme of trying new vegan restaurants, I decided to stop at Ukishima Garden to try some vegan omurice stuffed with rice and vegetables and order some falafel on the side. Instead of egg they used tofu to give this dish the classic fluffy texture. It was so creative and tasted even better than the usual omurice. I think this was actually the best dish that I had on the island! It was home cooked and made with love! They also have vegan burgers and taco rice on the menu as well as organic teas and wines. Check it out if you ever get the chance because this food is top notch!
Although I adored the Sanrio Hotel I stayed at the night before, I really wanted to stay somewhere with a pool so I chose Naha Aqua Citta which is rated as one of the top city resorts. With its beautiful infinity pool, free welcome drink tickets, and friendly atmosphere, I can definitely see why! I met so many amazing people on the rooftop bar that invited me to play drinking games because I was alone. We even ended up going to a hookah bar called Silver Ren which had the best hookah that I’ve ever smoked in Japan. People of all ages, races, and cultures were here so it was truly an international experience. The cheapest rooms are around 6800 yen per night which are more than worth it for the amenities. I would definitely stay here again just so I could mingle and meet more awesome people.
In my next article I will talk about my trip to Miyako Island! Thank you for reading and please look forward to it~
It’s been quite a long time since I last paid visit to Nagoya—one of the most charming cities in Japan as I see it—but with the emergency state now lifted in several prefectures outside of Tokyo and the sakura in bloom, I figured last weekend would be the ideal time to visit. One museum that I’ve had my eye on for quite a long time is the Mikawakougei Glass Art Museum that houses Japan’s largest kaleidoscope. This museum is roughly an hour and a half outside of Nagoya city and is comparably small in size to other art galleries, but the vivid colors of stained glass and the wondrous kaleidoscope that shows the origins of the universe made it worth the journey.
In year 2000 this kaleidoscope, called “Sphere”, even held the Guinness World Record for the largest kaleidoscope in the world. Though others have surpassed it now, it is still the largest kaleidoscope in Japan and walking inside of it creates a euphoric sensation that I have never felt before. In addition to the kaleidoscope, there are many other fantasy themed glass works that you can enjoy. One of my favorites was an army of frogs on a record player that mimicked a swimming animation when you hit a switch. This place definitely had an air of mystery to it and it was fun to watch other visitors’ reactions as I walked through. There are many different concepts that you could take away from this place, but the theme that I thought was most prominent was “things aren’t always what they seem”.
Entering the kaleidoscope is quite an unforgettable experience because it plays an animation that simulates the big bang and then turns into a series of bright psychedelic colors that reflects off of all surfaces. During this time your body will appear completely silhouetted against the neon glass making it the perfect photo opp. Your time inside of the kaleidoscope is limited, but you can keep lining up until you are satisfied with your photos. I think I entered it around 3 times and the wait time was only around 5-10 minutes each time. I even made a short dance video of it! Que the Persona Dancing All Night music because a new character has been unlocked (the song I actually used in this video was Point by Perfume):
Since it was hard to predict the lighting prior to visiting, the video quality isn’t the best but I will never forget the sensation of dancing inside of Japan’s largest kaleidoscope to one of my favorite songs! I look forward to seeing what other photos and videos people take because it truly feels like a theater in here.
From Meitetsu Nagoya Station, take the Meitetsu-Nagoya Line Express to Nishioguchi Station then wait for the Rokumangoku Kururin Bus 4 that will take you directly to the museum. You can also take a taxi from the station if you do not wish to wait for the bus. This journey takes roughly an hour and a half but only costs 1010 yen.
The entrance fee is only 700 yen which is a deal for what you can experience. This is way cheaper than what I am normally used to paying for a museum!
After experiencing some amazing visuals inside of Japan’s largest kaleidoscope, I decided to meet my Japanese friend in central Nagoya for some mouthwatering eel. I had forgotten that besides Shizuoka, Nagoya is also extremely famous in Japan for its freshwater eel. According to my friend who is a local, the eels in Shizuoka have more of a light and fluffy texture while the eels in Nagoya are more charred. After tasting both, I can happily say that each cooking style has its merits. I wasn’t sure if I would like the thoroughly cooked Nagoya eel at first, but when paired with a fluffy omelette on rice the taste is out of this world! The eel and egg are best eaten together because not only do their textures balance, but their flavors do too!
The restaurant we chose to eat at was Unagi Kashiwa Nanatsuboshi near Issha Station, but you can find a number of eel restaurants around here. This restaurant also has chicken and fish for those who are not up for trying the eel/egg combo, but I highly recommend it!
Overall this was a perfect first day back in Nagoya. Seeing a noteworthy museum + fine dining = always a win in my book. I would recommend the Glass Museum to those who have already seen most of the museums in Nagoya and are looking for something different, as it is a bit far from the city but was a pleasant ride. It feels so great to finally be traveling again!
Over the recent three-day holiday known as “Labor Thanksgiving Day” in Japan, I decided to venture to Kyoto once more in hopes of capturing the beauty of the red maple leaves on camera. The previous weekend I traveled to Ginzan Onsen and had a lovely experience there, but unfortunately since it is located in the north of Honshu most of the leaves from the red maples had already fallen. Since Kyoto is more to the south, I figured that mid-November would be the ideal time to visit. Fortunately I was able to do a ton of photography with both my new iPhone 12 Pro’s camera and my trusty GoPro Hero too. I also managed to eat at a lot of cute cafes and meet up with some old friends while experiencing the true Autumn essence of Japan. Yet another great adventure for the archive!
Nanzenji Architectural Temple
I departed from Tokyo immediately after my job on Friday via the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to avoid the holiday rush. After spending a quiet night at a guesthouse near Nijo Castle (read further below), I made my way to Nanzenji Temple, one of the most famous Zen temples in Japan that practices Buddhism. I’ve been to numerous temples and shrines in Kyoto already, but what drew me to Nanzenji was its aesthetic brick aqueduct that is frequently used as a photoshoot location for visitors wearing kimonos and weddings. During the Meiji Period it was actually used as part of a canal system from Kyoto to Lake Biwa in Shiga. Now its colors and architecture have weathered and faded making it look like a beautiful backdrop with the surrounding forest looming behind it.
I spent about an hour here doing self-portrait photography then wandered through the large complex of temples and gardens that are around here. I highly recommend visiting Tenjuan Temple because it has both a rock garden and a pond garden that make it look lovely in Autumn. I finally got to see the bright red maple leaves that I was dying to see here! The entrance fee is only 300 yen.
If you are interested in additional sightseeing, Kinkakuji and the Philosopher’s Path are really close to Nanzenji. But after all of this walking, I was hungry so I decided to grab some dessert!
Kotoba no Haoto
Since my next destination was located in the mountains north of central Kyoto, I decided to stop at a cozy bookshop that also serves adorable parfaits called Kotoba no Haoto. They have quite the impressive collection of books from everything from Kyoto guidebooks to cat-themed novels and are very welcoming to guests. I decided to order the seasonal parfait which consisted of a cat crafted out of vanilla ice cream and chocolate shavings and fresh fruit. It tasted even better than what I had imagined and was completely refreshing. I liked this cafe because I didn’t feel rushed here and could peacefully enjoy my dessert. After feeling fulfilled, I made my way to Mt. Hiei with renewed energy.
Originally I passed by the base of Mt. Hiei while I was on my way to the famed Rurikoin Temple. This temple is situated in a forest and has a pool of water inside that perfectly reflects the surface of its surroundings. The best time to go is in Autumn when the red maple leaves match the same red color of the interior of the temple. However, unbeknown to me entrance required prior online reservation from the months of October to December and I was not able to enter. Since I had traveled an hour by bus to get here, I decided that I would ride the cable car up Mt. Hiei instead and do some photography in the mountains. Fortunately it was only a 5 minute walk from the queue to Rurikoin so I did not lose much time. This is actually the longest cable car in Japan so I’m happy I went for the experience!
Mt. Hiei actually has both a cable car and a ropeway. To ride both roundtrip it costs around 1800 yen which is a bit expensive but the view is overall worth it. At the top you can see Garden Museum Hiei and also hike to see some temples in the mountains. I loved this museum because it had a lot of beautiful oil paintings that were carefully placed around groups of wild flowers and bushes. There was also a pond and you could see all of the mountains surrounding Kyoto and Shiga. The natural lighting and cool mountain air really added to the experience. If you come this far out it’s definitely worth the ascent because it gives you an entirely new view of Kyoto.
I descended around 4pm which was just in time to catch the golden hour when the sun shines through the trees and gradually begins to set. The path around the base of Mt. Hiei started to gleam with the flicker of lanterns and I felt as if I had been transported to a beautiful red world. Luckily I caught it all on camera. I loved how the Eizan Railway train I took back to the city center was marked with a red leaf too. This entire day went better than how I had originally envisioned it despite the minor setback.
Celebrations at L’Escamoteur
After experiencing the golden hour and feeling satisfied with the photos I had taken for the day, it was finally time for celebration! Coincidently one of my friends from Yamanashi was also in Kyoto and invited me to come to L’escamoteur with her. This bar is near Kawaramachi and is named after the French word for “magician” or “illusionist”. As the name implies the bartenders can whip up some pretty mysterious cocktails here. My friend and I have the same taste so we both ordered chocolate cocktails with brandy first. After kicking back the first round, we next ordered matching Kyoto-themed matcha cocktails that kind of look like おっぱい when placed side by side. We laughed at that and shared stories of our experiences in Kyoto. She also tried to go to Rurikoin Temple and could not get in without a reservation. Small world! We vowed to both see it next year during Autumn.
This bar definitely had the perfect atmosphere for catching up with old friends and I am happy I went here. Next time I would like to try a cocktail with an egg and this mysterious concoction I happened to capture on camera:
Due to the reduced prices of the hotels that are participating in the Go To Travel Campaign, I was able to stay at a backpackers guesthouse called Hostel Mundo for less than 1000 yen for 2 nights. I liked this guesthouse because it was located in a quiet area away from the crowds, but still had easy access to Kawaramachi and Kyoto buses. The rooms had cozy futons and the interior decor made me feel like I was in Thailand, but Hostel Mundo simulates the feeling of staying at a traditional Japanese house. Bike rental is also available and there are many hot springs nearby. Only a few other woman were staying here so I was able to sleep peacefully each night and wake up early for my next adventure. I would recommend this place to most people as it is very affordable and clean.
Thank you for reading Part 1 of my Autumn Adventures in Kyoto! Part 2 is already being drafted so please look forward to reading more from me soon~
Yesterday I wrote about the popular mountainous hotspring getaway Hakone, so today I’m writing about Tokyo’s other most popular day trip: Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture. Like Hakone, Nikko is also a famous hotsprings area located in the mountains that has stunning nature, temples, and a lot of parks as well. Between the two of them, Hakone is my favorite because the hotsprings and museums are easier to reach by bus. Nikko is more spaced-out than Hakone and some of the hot springs take over two hours via bus to reach. That is a lot of traveling to do if you’re just coming for the day, but if you really like hiking you may find Nikko more interesting. Both are worth seeing at least once.
I’ve been to Nikko twice (once in the summer and once in the winter for the snow festival) so I will be detailing my favorite discoveries in this article. All of these places can be reached via bus from Nikko Station:
Kegon Falls & Toshogu Shrine
Kegon Falls is one of the most gorgeous waterfalls in Tochigi Prefecture. It was formed by lava that rerouted a river into Lake Chuzenji. We came here in the dead of winter when the surrounding area was covered by snow and slightly frozen, but the waterfall was still freely falling from the mountains. I will never forget how beautiful this scenery was. No matter what time of year you visit you will have an unforgettable view!
In the summer I visited Nikko’s most famous shrine: Toshogu. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a good reason. This shrine serves as remembrance for Tokugawa Ieyasu who ruled the Tokugawa Shogunate for over 200 years. This shrine complex consists of several buildings with the main one being adorned in golden architecture that gleams in the sunlight. The shrines are located in a forested area so visiting each of them is quite a nice hike. I’m glad that I’ve traveled here during both the summer and winter so I can see the lovely change of scenery.
Kegon Falls has no admission fees, but it costs 550 yen to go to the observation deck (which is worth it in my opinion).
Toshogu Shrine Entrance Fee: 1300 yen
Nikko is famous for yuba which is literally tofu skin. That might not sound very appealing by itself, but it’s quite delicious when paired with or added to other dishes. I tried Yuba udon with my friend and it tasted amazing! The soft texture of the yuba paired with the noodles and broth gave the dish a unique texture. I also tried some yuba slices on the side just so I could fully analyze the taste. They are not as solid as tofu and are easier to eat. My favorite tofu of all time is fried tofu or spicy tofu since they have the most flavor. Yuba is rather flavorless, but it’s good for your health if eaten in small amounts. We went to the restaurant across from the station called ゆば料理, but you can try it almost anywhere in Nikko.
Yumoto Onsen Snow Festival
Each year in February, Yumoto Onsen has a snow festival in which igloos with ice sculptures are illuminated similar to the Sapporo Snow Festival. However, since this hotsprings resort is secluded, there are not as many people here and you can fully enjoy the illuminations to your heart’s content. It was quite a long journey from Tokyo, but my friend and I managed to arrive here and back within a day. The journey took 3.5 hours one way, but Yumoto Onsen is one of the best hotsprings in Nikko. After doing some photography here, we used the hotsprings for under 1000 yen. Similar to Gero Onsen and Kusatsu, you can choose from a large variety of onsen. Many were available for day trippers like us. The snow festival is free to see.
Here is a video I took in early 2018 of the igloos. I hope to take higher quality footage of another illuminated snow festival in the future:
Tobu World Square
Because I’m a fan of museums and architecture, I had to check out Tobu World Square. This is a theme park at Kinugawa Onsen (another famous hotspring) that has over 100 scales models of iconic places from around the world. My personal favorite was the pyramids from Egypt. If you stand in front of them and take a picture of yourself, it looks like you’re actually in the desert! The coliseum from Rome is also aestheically pleasing to see. I loved the mini recreation of the Dragon and Taiwan Pagoda as well. Now that I’ve been there, it hold much more meaning to me. The more you walk through the park, the more you want to travel! Summer is the ideal time to come here in my opinion.
Entrance Fee: 2500 yen (a bit expensive, but this is one of the most interesting museums in Nikko).
Walking in an Edo Wonderland
Since I was already near Kinugawa Onsen where many museums are located, I figured I’d go walking in an Edo Wonderland. As the name implies, this is an amusement park dedicated to the Edo period of Japan. If you’ve studied Japanese history, then you’ll know that this was a revolutionary time for the country. There were samurais, economic growth, and a lot of development across Japan. Many anime and novels are based off this time period. Edo Wonderland plays homage to that and gives visitors the chance to step back into that world. You can visit ninja houses and temples here, dress up in formal Edo clothing, take a boat cruise down the river, and see all sorts of performances.
Since I’ve been living in Japan for while, the most interesting part was simply exploring the Edo town for me. However, there’s a lot more you can do here! There is an archery dojo, countless restaurants, and museums where you can get even further lost in time.
Entrance Fee: 4800 yen before 2pm, 4100 after 2pm (it’s best to come in the afternoon as this is quite expensive)
The best way to access Nikko is from Tokyo’s Ueno Station. At the tourism office, they have often have discounts and deals as Nikko is a popular destination. From Ueno, you can take the Hibiya Line to Kita-senju Station, then the Tobu Limited Express to reach Tobu-Nikko Station. This takes approximately 2 hours and costs 3500 yen.
As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve never stayed overnight at Nikko before but it’s something I’d like to try in the future. Kinugawa Onsen is one of the centrally located and seems like a good option because you can reach the other areas of Tochigi Prefecture quite easily from it.
Welcome to Naoshima—Japan’s obscure avant-garde island full of art museums, beaches, and outdoor sculptures. Since I am a lover of all things aesthetic, I couldn’t pass up the chance to go here while I was traveling through Okayama. This island is very small but has a lot to see. It’s well-known among art enthusiasts and travelers that like to go off the beaten path. The most iconic piece of art you’ll find is the giant yellow pumpkin at the pier designed by Yayoi Kusama, but there’s an artistic sense all around here. Even if you’re not a huge fan of art, it’s really fun to go cycling and swimming here because it’s quite secluded from the rest of Japan. This island is actually part of Shikoku though you can access it from Honshu too. I’ll be detailing my full experience in this article!
Getting around Naoshima
From the net cafe I was staying overnight at (Jiyuu Kuukan), I walked to Okayama Station and rode the Seto-Ohashi Line to Chayamachi Station, then took the Uno Line to Uno Station for 50 mins total. From Uno Station, I walked to the nearby port and rode a ferry for 30 mins to Naoshima island. These ferries are frequent and leave almost every hour (see time table here). It was a very fun ride and the weather was perfect too!
I rented a bike for 500 yen/day because cycling is the best way to see all of Naoshima. The whole island takes about 2.5 hours total to cycle around and is pretty easy to navigate because it’s circular. However, it’s easy to spend a whole day here because there are so many museums to see. There are many hostels and resorts you can stay overnight at too. I didn’t stay overnight here, but I really want to next time!
I started my trip by riding my bike to Gotanji Bathing Beach where the giant yellow pumpkin is. I spent around an hour here swimming and seeing all of the Picasso-esque statues that line the beach area. I met a mix of both Japanese and international travelers who were very friendly. There was a giant raft in the middle of the swimming area where I actually took a nap on! That’s how relaxing it is here~
After feeling refreshed from the ocean, I decided to make my way around to the major museums. Some are free to enter but others have admission fees. I would research them beforehand budget around 3000 – 6000 yen depending on what you want to see.
Exploring the Museums
The main museums worth seeing on the island are:
Benesse House – Museum by the beach with indoor and outdoor exhibits. They combine their hotel with the “coexistence of nature, art and architecture” and are responsible for many projects on the island.
Chichu Art Museum – An ambient museum built mostly underground. The natural light plays a huge role in seeing the artwork here.
Lee Ufan Museum – A contemporary art museum consisting of stones and two-dimensional paintings. His art has a tranquil feeling when paired with the seaside viewpoint.
Ando Museum – A traditional wooden house that uses creative architecture to contrast light and shadow and the past from the present.
Teshima Art Museum – This is a famous art museum located on the nearby Teshima Island that resembles a water droplet and is perfect for photography.
Art House Projects – A series of small houses with a variety of different art from different artists. For a full list, please see the Benesse Art Project Site.
*Please note that photography is not allowed at all museums, but is okay outside most places.
One of the most interesting things I saw was the light-up ‘Live & Die’ piece at Benesse House (pictured in the very top photos). The words on the boards all have different associations with life and death. While the lights faded, a Japanese man walked up and spread his arms out, as if embracing the words it had projected. It was one of the coolest reactions I have ever witnessed at an art museum in my life. I also saw a graveyard outside of the Lee Ufan museum. Its juxtaposition with the art made me think more on the concept of life and death. I did a lot of reflecting this day and it was very good for my mental heath. That’s why I’m planning to come back here in the summer again and see all the spots that I missed!
Food & Drinks
There are restaurants, bakeries, and cafes all over the island so you can easily find a place that catches your interest. I had cold soba noodles and matcha bread with anko for lunch at a place called Aisunao. It was all homemade food and tasted amazing! When I got back to Okayama, I drank a drink that smiled back at a Tiki Bar. You seriously can find great selection here wherever you look!
Bathing in a Artsy Bath
Before I took the ferry back, I decided to bathe at the artsy bath called I♥湯 (I love you). The outside of the bath house has an aesthetic mosaic design that looks like no other bath house in Japan. The indoor area has equally beautiful architecture. It was a great way to end the trip. The entrance fee is only 660 yen.
Exploring other Islands
One regret I have is that I didn’t look into exploring the two smaller art islands you can access from Naoshima: Inujima & Teshima. Both islands can be reached from Naoshima in less than 20 mins. Benesse has a nice two-day itinerary where you can see all the major works of the three islands. I will be going back hopefully later this year to see the small things that I missed!
I mentioned the route that I took above, but there are multiple ways to get to Naoshima. Please see the Benesse site for more information.
People always ask me what my favorite place to visit outside of Tokyo is—and though it’s extremely hard to for me to choose because there’s simply so many—one of my favorite destinations of all time is Kanazawa. Kanazawa is the capital city of Ishikawa prefecture and is known for its famous seafood market, historical buildings including samurai houses, and brilliant gold architecture. It has a rustic charm that is similar to Kyoto, but is far less touristy and is surrounded by the beautiful sea.
Kanazawa is also the birthplace of famous musical artist Nakata Yasutaka (producer of Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, capsule, and Perfume), who created his own indie music festival called OTONOKO that was held once a year from 2016-2018 (it currently if unknown when it will be held again). The festival attracted around 200-300 people and created a close community of music lovers that had traveled from all over Japan. It’s one of the best music festivals I’ve ever been to in Japan because it features both the experienced artists of ASOBISYSTEM and the new and upcoming talents too. I was happy to share this experience with many friends I had met at his previous music events held in Tokyo and other cities as well as explore the famous capital that is his hometown. There is so much to do in Kanazawa outside of the festival too!
Here’s a list I’ve compiled of all of my favorite places in Kanazawa. You can easily spend 3 full days doing things here:
Kanazawa Castle & Kenrokuen
Kanazawa Castle is one of my all-time favorite castles in Japan and is located right next to the famous Japanese garden Kenrokuen. This castle is massive compared to other ones I’ve visited and you can tell a lot of detail was put its re-construction after in caught on fire in the 1600s. I first came here in the winter when a light layer of snow had piled on top of the castle’s roof and it was extremely aesthetic. I was glad that it was one of the first places I had visited because it’s a huge part of the city’s history.
Strolling through Kenrokuen and listening to all of my favorite music was also a huge pleasure. It’s considered one of Japan’s “three most beautiful landscape gardens” and is the best garden of Kanazawa so you should definitely check it out if you’re here.
The castle is free to enter, and Kenrokuen’s admission is 320 yen.
What you see here might just be my favorite exhibition in the world. The image of the pool looks like some kind of mirage or frozen frame from a vaporwave music video, but there are actually living, breathing people going about their daily routines under the waters of this pool. You can even “dive in” and join them—but you can’t jump or use the ladder. Instead you must reach the underwater zone from another entrance (which can easily be found by following the signs). In addition to the pool, there are various rooms with simulations you can enter.
This museum is an important part of Kanazawa’s culture because it draws a large number of people to the city. Its design is very modern but somehow fits in the center of Kanazawa’s historic streets because it has a beautiful outdoor park and is near the Kenrokuen Garden. The outside of the museum has free exhibits you can see as well.
The entrance fee is 360 yen for temporary exhibitions (some exhibits are free).
Golden Ice Cream & Sake
Since Kanazawa is the city of gold, you can find all sorts of golden souvenirs here. The golden ice cream is by far the most famous (and delicious too). At a confectionery shop called Hakuichi, you can savor the best gold-leaf ice cream in Japan. I went during October one year and they added an edible ghost topping too! The gold sake is also something I bought back for home. It tastes just like any other sake but the gold flakes inside make it look like a glittery snow globe. My friends joke that I have eaten more gold than anyone they know, and that very well may be true.
Omicho Fish Market
The Omicho Fish Market is where you’ll find some of the freshest seafood in mainland Japan. Kanazawa is most famous for crab, but you can find almost any other kind of fish imaginable. My personal favorites were Kaisen Maruhidon (rice bowls with mountains of seafood on top) and the tiny servings of sea urchin sold in the stalls outside. Most restaurants will gladly customize your orders for you and there are amazing sushi restaurants here as well.
One of my favorite memories was when Nakata Yasutaka’s first solo album Digital Native was announced the night before the festival, so my friend and I split a crab then ordered a pitcher of sangria from a restaurant below the station in celebration. A waiter peeled a fresh avacado for us too, but I don’t actually remember what we ordered in last photo… That just goes to show how much fun I had here!
Higashi Chaya District
The Higashi Chaya District of Kanazawa is where some of the traditional teahouses and upscale ryokan are located so it’s one of the prettiest parts of the city. There are also cafes, souvenir shops, and a lot of interesting architecture here. It’s a lot similar to Kyoto’s Gion district but the crowds are more evenly distributed. I love the winding streets and also the liveliness here. Everything seems like it was built to perfection.
I highly recommend checking out the Nomura Clan Samurai Home here because it has unique artifacts and a beautiful home garden. The Godburger is also a nice meme. Although haven’t eaten there yet, it’s definitely on my bucket list.
Piano of Memories (思い出ピアノ)
As I was walking underneath Kanazawa Station, I noticed a really interesting exhibit. Here sat an ordinary piano that anyone could walk up to and play but it had an interesting concept. People could upload videos with the hashtag “sharepiano” for others to listen to online. I uploaded this video I took to Twitter and the pianist actually found it and was happy I captured this moment!
Kanazawa is a popular destination for both foreign and domestic tourists, but it’s spread out enough so that things like this can be heard and appreciated.
Hotsprings, Hotels, & Other Recommendations
When I first came to Kanazawa, I didn’t have a lot of money so I decided to stay at a hostel called Good Neighbors Hostel (now called Off) near the station for around 2500 yen a night. The 2nd time I stayed at Neighbors Inn (owned by the same people) for around the same price. Both were extremely memorable times.
The first time I met a Perfume fan from Hong Kong who had awesome stickers of all the idols on his laptop. We became good friends during the duration of the festival and the hostel had a Death Note-inspired “Guest Note” that we wrote in (fortunately no one died). The second time the hostel had a ball pit so I took hilarious photos of myself pregaming in it. I always have the best time staying in this city no matter where I am.
If hostels aren’t your style, you can find a variety of cheap hotels on websites like Booking. Additionally, if you are looking for a day hot spring I recommend Terume Kanazawa. The admission fee is only 1100 yen.
The official after party for the festival was held at an event space called Double with two floors (one bar floor and one music floor). It is here where the strong gather and continue to party until down. In 2018 I managed to meet Nakata-san before he left and get me T-shirt signed. It was on my birthday weekend so it made it extremely special:
Here is a shot of the after-party I recorded in 2018. It truly was a time to be alive and I hope to go again if it resumes in the future:
From Tokyo Station, take the Hokuriku-Shinkansen towards Kanazawa. This takes approximately 3 hours and costs 15,000 yen one way. Nakata Yasutaka actually designed the shinkansen departure melody for this train so it’s extremely special!
You can also fly to Komatsu Airport and take a bus to Kanazawa Station which may be cheaper unless you have the JR Rail Pass.
If you are interested in other day trips from Kanazawa, please see my Shirakawago article.
The pictures you see above look like they might have been shot in the desert—or at the very least somewhere barren like Mongolia in East Asia. However, they were actually taken in Tottori Prefecture on the west coast of mainland of Japan. As a person who loves exploring unusual places, I had to research this place and plan a trip here immediately. I was especially excited to meet the camels (who I naively thought were native to Japan at the time, but one of my Japanese friends informed me that they were likely imported from India). I tried to research the origin of the camels online, but gathered that nobody really knew where they came from or how they got here like some kind of ominous mystery. Regardless of their origin I was extremely stoked to see the!
Much to my delight, I found out that Tottori was the real-life location of the anime Free! and discovered the first ending song was inspired by the Tottori Sand Dunes. This series was one of my favorite anime in college so traveling here was like a dream come true.
Tottori is almost a six hour journey by train from Tokyo, but flying here only takes one hour and is half the price (see the “Access” section for more information). These are the biggest sand dunes open to the public in Japan so I would definitely recommend coming here if you have the chance. This place is just too bizarre not to see and it has a lovely beach! In addition to the camels, there are cable cars you can ride, specialty pear ice cream you can try, and a sand sculpture museum. Sandboarding is also available for the adventurous! Please see the official tourism website for more info.
Climbing the dunes was a bit of a challenge, but was worth it to see the gorgeous beach at the other end. I had never experienced a desert-like landscape in my life and was amazed at how far the dunes go down. Walking from the entrance to the park and climbing them took around a half an hour, but you can easily spend 2-3 hours here enjoying the views that are unlike anywhere else in Japan. The cable car ride is only 300 yen and will help you save energy if you get too tired.
Here is an old video I took of the camels in August of 2017. There were only a few of them around but they seemed to be kept in good care. It costs 1300 yen to ride them and 100 yen for just a photo with them. It was a very surreal sight for Japan:
After camel watching, I made my way to the beach a sip on some specialty sake I bought from the souvenir store. It definitely felt like some kind of weird scene out of an anime:
After fully enjoying the sand dunes and the camels, my last stop was the Sand Museum. Similar to the snow festival in Sapporo, there is a sand sculpture festival in Tottori. The Sand Museum is open year-round but some exhibits change. When I was there a sand sculpture of the detested president Trump greeted me at the entrance. Regardless of my strong dislike of his presidency, I thought it was hilarious to see this here in the “desert” of Japan, of all places. There was also a recreation of the Washington Monument, the Statue of Liberty, and several sculptures with inspiration from Hollywood and outer space. You really can’t miss out on this place because it’s too iconic. The admission fee is only 600 yen.
From Tottori Station, take the Tottori Sakyu Bus to the very last stop which is the sand dunes (you can clearly see them from outside your window). This takes 20 mins and only costs 380 yen.
A roundtrip flight from Tokyo to Tottori only takes one hour and costs around 20,000 yen. However, I didn’t know this at first and road the train one way 6 hours for 18,000 yen (making it almost double the price round trip). Unless you have the JR Pass, I would recommend flying there.
In my next post I will be talking about how to get to Iwami; another bug location from the anime Free! Please look forward to it~
Yesterday I talked about visiting Legoland Japan and Nagashima Spa Land in Part 1, so today I’d like to talk about my expedition to the Ninja Village of Iga. Though the historic practice of Ninjutsu is now considered a dead art, this village houses a large museum showcasing its origin. There are also ninja shows performed by professional actors, shops and shrines, and a large castle you can enter. Since this village is very remote, the number of tourists is usually lower than other attractions in Kansai. Iga is located in Mie Prefecture but the whole city can be seen during a day trip from Nagoya or Osaka.
Riding the train from Iga-Kambe Station to Iga-Ueno Station is a one-of-a-kind experience because the train artwork was done by Reiji Matsumoto, most famous for Galaxy Express 999. There are also ninjas poised to attack inside the train car, so you are best off practicing your defense techniques beforehand (jokes aside, the short ride through the mountainous terrain in this two-car train is incredible).
When you get off at Iga Ueno Station, you have the option to rent bikes or walk. You can see the major points of attraction within 3 – 4 hours on foot, so I would just recommend walking. You can pick up a map at the tourism center next to the station so navigating the city is self-explanatory. I started my trip by eating some some ninja udon at a noodle place called Kyuan (I greatly appreciated the shape of the toppings) then headed to Iga Ueno Castle so I could get a nice view of the entire village:
After doing some photography, I made my way to the gates of the ninja museum. There are ninja shows almost every hour that you can see for 400 yen. Unfortunately they are not allowed to be recorded, but they are worth seeing if you come all the way out here. I enjoyed seeing the cute tiger mascot of Iga and some of the weapons that ninjas used in ancient times. There is some English guidance so you can read about the history of the city at your leisure. The village museum is designed for all ages and there are some really interesting artifacts there. There are also handmade ninja charms you can buy.
Is it worth it?
Iga is roughly 2.5 hours from Nagoya and is quite a long day compared to the other attractions I mentioned in the first part of my article. The city itself is quite small and can be seen within 4 hours. Some of the attractions seem a bit gimmicky, but like most rural places I’ve visited I still enjoyed my time here. As someone who lives in one of the busiest cities in the world, I have great appreciation for places like this. Much of the now-abandoned ninja culture has been preserved here, so this is a rare chance to see it if you are interested in the history of Japan. Not to mention Iga is a peaceful place with friendly people so your time will be valued here.
If you are interested in reading about the history of the Iga Ninja online before you go, please check the Koka Ninja House website.
117 Uenomarunouchi, Iga, Mie 518-0873
From Kintetsu Nagoya Station, take the Kintetsu Limited Express to Nabari Station, then transfer to the same express going to Iga-Kambe Station. From there you can ride the special ninja train to Iga Ueno Station and get off to reach the ninja village. This costs 4210 yen one way and takes 2.5 hours, but was overall worth it in my opinion.
Throughout my travels in Asia, I’ve managed to stumble upon some pretty awe-inspiring museums. I enjoy traditional art as well as hands-on modern exhibits found in galleries around the world today. My favorite museums are those that combine innovative technology with art and science—shattering perceived ideas and adding a whole other dimension to the viewer’s experience.
I’ve compiled a list of my top 3 favorites museums in Asia that are phenomenal examples of how innovative technology can be used to break the borders of art as we know it (starting from the top):
1. The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (Kanazawa, Japan)
Mana Pool. What you see here might just be my favorite exhibition in the world. This image looks like some kind of mirage or frozen frame from a vaporwave music video, but there are actually living, breathing people going about their daily routines under the waters of this pool. You can even “dive in” and join them—but you can’t jump or use the ladder. Instead you must reach the underwater zone from another entrance (which can easily be found by following the signs).
This pool was constructed with a limestone deck at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa, Japan (shortened to Kanazawa 21). A thin layer of water is contained in transparent glass giving it the look of a real swimming pool. However, underneath the glass is an underground room that is completely empty. From the point of view of those who stand at the surface, you can create the illusion that you are walking underwater by taking a staircase beside the pool. It truly is a vaporwave dream that has been realized by the power of aesthetics and science.
In addition to the pool, there are various rooms with simulations you can enter. My personal favorite was “The Killing Machine”. Photography was not allowed in some areas, so I will leave the contents up to your imagination. I found some neat aviation and space exhibits when I first visited. Some exhibits rotate, so please check the Exhibition page for the most recent ones.
This museum is an important part of Kanazawa’s culture because it draws a large number of people to the city. Its design is very modern but somehow fits in the center of Kanazawa’s historic streets because it has a beautiful outdoor park and is near the Kenrokuen Gardens. The outside of the museum has free exhibits you can see as well.
Here is my pool-walking video that I took in 2017. The Swimming Pool is a permanent exhibit that can be seen year round so I hope to return and take better quality videos in the future.
1 Chome-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-8509 Entrance Fee: 360 yen for temporary exhibitions (some exhibits are free)
2. Nexon Computer Museum (Jeju, Korea)
Over Golden Week I traveled to the island of Jeju in Korea, but instead of the beaches (which are by far the best in Korea) I was most drawn to the iconic Nexon Computer Museum. Nexon is the company responsible for creating Maple Story and the longest running commercial graphic MMO in the world: Baram, also known as Nexus: The Kingdom of the Winds. I was really surprised to see that a modest company in Korea had this award; which makes me think that Nexon is seriously underrated so naturally I wanted to learn more.
When I entered the museum, a wall full of lockers shaped like keys greeted me. Instantly I was impressed with the on-point aesthetics here. The cafe also had keyboard-shaped waffles, or what you’d call “sticky keys” which was another reason I had to travel all the way out here.
The museum is split into 4 floors; starting with the history of computing, then videogames and educational programs, and finally arcades in the basement! I felt a strange sense of nostalgia but also was fascinated with some of the original things that Nexon had worked on. From fantasy MMORPGs to EA Sports, there was quite a repertoire of games you could play here. They also had collections of old Apple computers and the infamous Nintendo Power Glove on display here.
Here is the Guinness World Record for The Kingdom of the Winds on display which was originally launched in 1996:
3198-8 1100(Cheonbaek)-ro, Nohyeong-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea Entrance Fee: ￦8,000
3. Open Air Museum (Hakone, Japan)
While day tripping to Hakone from Tokyo, I discovered the loveliest museum with a stained glass cathedral, Persona-esque sculptures, and even a foot bath outside of the cafe! The Hakone Open Air Museum is almost entirely outdoors and is close to Mt. Fuji so you have the perfect mountain backdrop for your viewing experience. Right as I entered I was greeted by a marble head floating in an empty pool that gave me massive リサフランク420 vibes. There is an indoor Picasso Exhibition Hall as well, but the main draw is the abstract sculptures and mysterious moats on the outskirts:
These sculptures are said to symbolize the balance of harmony and art, but some of them are warped beyond belief and seem to represent a feeling of discord or solitude. I personally thought they looked a lot like shadows from the Persona series; especially the ones wearing masks. However you interpret it, you’ll definitely have a good time here. Especially if you bring some good music.
Here is one of the best shots I captured by climbing up the cathedral with my old camera:
Mori Art Museum (Tokyo) – This museum is one of the most frequently visited ones in Japan due of its upscale art and central access. I visited it once and thought it was nice to see, but the exhibits change frequently so it’s hard for me to gauge it. There wasn’t a piece that really stood out to me like in other galleries I’ve visited, but it is worth seeing if you’re interested in modern art.
Benesse House (Naoshima) – An contemporary art museum on a remote art project island in Shikoku, Japan. There is a beach nearby that you can go swimming at, and it’s absolutely gorgeous! I will be writing more about this quirky art island in a future article.
teamLab: Everyone is talking about this “borderless” art museum, and it is undoubtedly one of the most high-tech in the world. I’ve been to both the Planets and the new museum that opened up in Odaiba. Both have blown me away with how much work was put into the lighting with the interactive exhibits. It almost feels like you’re living in a neon hologram when you walk through some rooms. However, due to this museum’s popularity, you can only see some exhibits for a short period of time. Unfortunately due to the crowds it is sometimes difficult to fully enjoy things here, but it is worth seeing.
*I will be expanding upon these honorable mentions in future articles. My travel plans have been slowed due to the COVID-19 pandemic so I am currently digging through my archive to create more content.