Immortal Heartー I’ve been to Kyoto many times in many different seasons, but this month was the first time I’ve ever been to the remotely located heart-shaped temple called Shojuin in Ujitawara. Amidst the fear of the corona virus, I was worried this temple may be closed like many other facilities in Japan, but I was fortunate to travel during a time when it was still open. Located in a rural area accessible by bus from Uji Station, you will find that the view through the window is well worth the trip. Even though I visited during the winter, I managed to take a lot of quality photos and learn about its history with only a few other Japanese tourists around me.
I arrived to the temple around 2pm when I predicted there would be optimal sunlight. The weather was raining on and off but due to the way Shojuin is constructed, the light always falls through the heart-shaped window. The temple consists of a few small building complexes but everything can easily be seen within 40 minutes. Tea and a light snack are provided with the entrance fee as well as an explanation of the history as the inome window. The word “inome” refers to a heart shape motif commonly found in Japanese temples and Buddhism. The definition literally means “eye of the wild boar” in Japanese (which is said to be heart-shaped so it makes sense in theory). It could also refer to the lime trees with heart-shaped leaves that are closely associated with Buddhism. I have uploaded the English explanation I was given for reference if anyone wishes to investigate it further.
The inome window is also nicknamed the “Window of Happiness” making it the ideal place to pray for peace and love. Though I do not consider myself a religious person, coming to this temple was a truly bright experience to me. In addition to the window, there are also over 160 art tiles on the ceiling painted in brilliant colors. While I was taking pictures, it started snowing for a brief period through the window. This was my first time all year seeing snow in Japan, so it is a special moment I’ll never forget:
Though I was only here for around an hour and a half, I feel like I had the chance to witness this temple during all four seasons. During my time here it rained, snowed, turned overcast, then sunlight came out right before it closed. It was amazing! The people around me couldn’t believe it either. Just like my Quest to the Tower of the Sun, this also felt like an experience pulled straight from a video game. I highly recommend this temple to everyone visiting Kyoto, because it’s not nearly as touristy or crowded as the Golden Pavilion or Kiyomizu-dera.
During the summer there is a wind chime festival here as well. Please check the official Kyoto Tourism website for more information.
Access
294 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0862
Entrance Fee: 400 yen (includes tea and sweets)
Directions: From Kyoto Station, ride the Nara Line to Obaku Station, then ride the Uji Line to Uji Station. From Uji Station, take the Keihan Bus to Ichumae Bus Stop. Please note that Google Maps will suggest you to take a taxi to Shojuin Temple from this point, which I did on the way there for 2000 yen, but there is a “community bus” (which actually a small white van) that I missed which is free. On the way back, I walked with some friendly Japanese girls from Hyogo to the free bus stop. The bus stop looks like a shack that belongs to someone’s backyard because Uji is very rural, but we managed to find it with teamwork. Keep your eyes out for the iconic heart-shaped bus stop that leads you to the magical heart-shaped temple (this is the best travel advice I’ve given anyone):
