Braving the Waters of Itoshima, Fukuoka (Itoshima Summer Guide Part 2)

One of the most famous views from Itoshima’s Totoro Forest.

Continuing from Part 1, this is Part 2 of my Itoshima Summer Guide. This part will feature scenic hikes and more recommended cafes and restaurants. The best hikes are Shiraito Waterfall and the Totoro Forest of Itoshima, which I had no idea existed until I was kindly shown by a local. It’s surreal how there are still so many people in Japan who are unfamiliar with Itoshima, because its beauty is truly unmatched. After spending three days here, I would rank it as one of my top destinations in Kyushu. I can see why locals would rather live here than in the city because you can enjoy the beach from anywhere in Itoshima.

Shiraito Waterfall

Shiraito Waterfall is one of the top attractions in Itoshima due to its natural beauty and festive surrounding atmosphere. If you come by car, the waterfall is only a short walk from the parking lot, but you can choose to hike here too. Depending on the season, you can try nagashi somen (the “flowing” soba noodles you can catch with chopsticks) in the Summer, and also see the large maple tree’s leaves here change colors in the Fall. I always appreciate seeing waterfalls in Japan because they have such brilliant colors. The best time to come here is early in the morning when no one else is around.

Address: 460-6 Shiraito, Itoshima, Fukuoka 819-1154
Admission: Free

Totoro Forest

The true name of this place is “Itoshima’s Genkai-Quasi National Park”, but it is referred to “Totoro’s Forest” by locals. Why? According to Japan Travel:

Because this portion of Shima town protrudes out of the main island and the forest’s location at the very end of this protrusion, the sea breeze hits the forest on all sides, constantly forcing the leaves of all trees found in the forest to grow into the dome shape that resembles the forest found in the famous ‘My Neighbor Totoro’ film by Studio Ghibli.

This park is great because it has a lot of beginner to intermediate level hikes that you can conquer in a short amount of time. It also has the best aerial views of Itoshima; you can see all of the way to Fukuoka Tower on a clear day. If you visit, definitely allow 1-2 hours to climb Mt. Tateishi and take the trail down to Keya Beach. Totoro’s Forest can be seen in a short amount of time and is a great place to catch some shade. Just be sure to pay attention to the signs, or better yet, find a local that will guide you!

Address: Shimakeya, Itoshima, Fukuoka 819-1335
Admission: Free

Recommended Cafes and Restaurants

My top cafe pick in Itoshima was Koko’s Cafe, which is a bakery and sweets cafe ran by a Taiwanese woman who has been living in Japan for a long time. She also has a ceramic art studio and sells pottery and glasses in her cafe shop. The menu at Koko’s changes seasonally based on what ingredients are available, but this time we were lucky to try the strawberry crepe (which was the fanciest crepe I have ever eaten in my life) and the savory peach pastry. These sweets were extremely high quality and artfully decorated so they made me quite happy.

Here are some other recommendations that are also top caliber:

For bakeries, I highly recommend Cafe de Poupee because they have delicious tiramisu croissants, soft pretzels, and affogato. Fore seasonal cakes and morning plates, Cafe Lily is one of the best breakfast places we discovered that is usually open early. If you’re going to Fukae Beach, SALUT is also a great place to stop by and eat toast and basque cheesecake. Last but not least, if you are looking for one of the best authentic Italian restaurants in Fukuoka, then please visit Time @ Ito Highland. This restaurant has the famous Napoli star-shaped pizza and other delicacies. I wished that I could try more of the menu items, but by far the margherita pizzas here were the best.

Thank you for reading my Itoshima Guide! If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments. I may write a music review later this week detailing an event I went to in Fukuoka. This trip was very refreshing and I hope to visit more of Kyushu next summer.

Braving the Waters of Itoshima, Fukuoka (Itoshima Summer Guide Part 1)

Climbing over the rocks and to the brilliant white gate of Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine in Itoshima at sunset.

It’s been quite a while since my last update due to my international travels, but I’m happy to be publishing a summer guide to Fukuoka’s secluded beach paradise: Itoshima. Unlike the name implies, Itoshima is not an island and is less than an hour by train from Fukuoka’s Airport. Though it is a popular destination for locals and tourists in Kyushu, there are still many people who don’t know about it. The top things to do in Itoshima are see Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine, go hiking to Shiroito Falls and the Totoro Forest, and eat delicious seafood. If you have a car or are willing to walk around, it is easy to find beaches that are almost uninhibited. I will detail all of my recommended places in this post.

The last time I went to Fukuoka was two years ago to see the Frog Temple in Ogori, and I’m happy to see that the cozy summer vibes of this city haven’t changed. This year I came to Fukuoka to attend tofubeats「NOBODY」Release Party and also visit my friend, who is a local, in Itoshima.

Though Fukuoka is generally a budget-friendly city for travelers, accommodations that aren’t guesthouses in Itoshima can sometimes be expensive, so be sure to book in advance if you are coming here. My friend graciously let me crash at her house and also drove me around to the places mentioned in this post, but please note that there are local buses in Itoshima that you can take if you don’t have wheels. Summer is usually high season for Fukuoka, so visiting before or after Obon holiday in August is recommended.

Itoshima Summer Guide

Here are my must-see places in Itoshima. I recommend spending two days here if you want to enjoy the main beaches and hikes.

Recommended Beaches

If you like Instagram-worthy spots, look no further than Odanohama Beach! Located in front of the restaurant named “Zauo” is a palm tree swing that anyone can freely swing on. This is an ideal spot for taking aesthetic photos with the backdrop of the ocean. There is also a shark head you can climb inside that pays homage to JAWS. Another interesting spot here was a fallen tree that was repurposed into a “bridge” that leads to the ocean. It’s exhilarating to walk the full length of it so you’re positioned just above the ocean’s waves; you can really feel the breeze.

Odanohama Beach was by far the most creative beach in Itoshima mostly frequented by Japanese locals, but please keep in mind there are many more secluded beaches here. If you are looking for somewhere with less people, please check out Fukae Beach. I spend two lovely mornings swimming here without virtually no one else around:

Mornings in Fukae Beach are completely free from tourists.

Though I didn’t visit it, my friend also recommends Fujiyoshi Beach. According to the locals, these two beaches are great for all activities you could think of, like swimming, tanning, fishing, or surfing. Next time I visit Itoshima, I would really like to try paddle boarding. It looks like it’s a great way to make new friends!

Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine

The most scenic spot of Itoshima is without a doubt Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine, which consists of a white gate in the ocean and two rocks conjoined by rope, which are sometimes referred to as the “couples rocks” or “married rocks” by visitors. These rocks are said to represent Izanagi and Izanami and their everlasting bond. This is one of the best places to watch the sunset in Itoshima. You can climb into the ocean and walk under the gate to see it up close. It was so refreshing being in the ocean and watching the happy smiles of all of the visitors here. Though many people who visit Sakurau Futamigaura wish for love, you can truly wish for anything here.

Address: 〒819-1303 Fukuoka, Itoshima, 桜井
Admission: Free

Kaisendon at Itoshima Kaisendo

Located right next to Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine is a delicious kaisendon (seafood and rice bowl) restaurant called Itoshima Kaisendo with quite an extensive menu. Being the seafood lover that I am, I ordered the most expensive bowl on the menu that is topped with gold flakes. I loved the fresh shrimp, salmon, sea urchin, and crab in this bowl but truly every piece of fish was delicious. Though I didn’t try it, you can also order Itoshima’s famous egg topping. Apparently not only the seafood, but also the eggs in Itoshima are out of this world.

Address: 2206-21 Kota, Nishi Ward, Fukuoka, 819-0203

Even though I have been to Fukuoka about four times, the beauty and aura of Itoshima really surprised me. There’s just a sense of inner peace here that you can’t easily feel in the city, After living and traveling in Japan for a while, you’ll really start to appreciate Kyushu beaches even more.

Thank you for reading Part 1 of my Itoshima Summer Guide, Part 2 will be published soon!