After getting a good dose of cycling and an impromptu dance party on Udo Island, I figured I’d spend my 2nd day in Jeju climbing Korea’s tallest mountain: Mt. Hallasan. It’s actually not just a mountain— it’s an active volcano too! Fortunately for us, it hasn’t erupted in over 1,000 years and doesn’t spew lava so it’s safe to climb. Reaching the summit will give you the best view of the island which is why I wanted to take on the challenge. I’ve climbed Mt. Fuji in Japan which was quite the strenuous hike of 3,776 meters. Hallasan is still challenging, but is only 1,947 meters and has a lovely forest you can see on your way up. I found the hike to be pleasant and surprisingly relaxing.
Hallasan National Park is in the center of the main Jeju island and is quite easy to get to from any accommodation. It only took me around 45 mins via bus from my hostel. The mountain has four main trails, but only two will take you all the way to the top. I decided to start at the Seongpanak Trail then take the Gwaneumsa Trail down. This is the best way to see Hallasan as you can reach the summit and fully experience all the sights on the main trails within 8 – 10 hours. If you want a shorter hike, you can try Eorimok Trail or Yeongsil Trail which only take 2 hours. I did not hike them, but from looking at pictures that others have posted I can see that they have similar scenery to the beginning of the main trails. I never guessed that Korea would have such beautiful mountains, but I was surprised to see how jaw-dropping the views were the further I climbed:
I started climbing around 8:30am and bought a small bottle of Korean Sochu from a convenience store at the base so I could take little shots of it as I climbed up the mountain. Fortunately my hostel provided free breakfast so with 3 pieces of egg toast I knew I would have the energy to go all the way. I listened to all of my favorite music while walking through the forest and had a nice little reflection on life. Here I was in Korea again. I found out there’s way more to this country than K-pop, cosmetics, and partying in Seoul and Busan. These violet flora I kept seeing were absolutely beautiful. Before I knew it, I was walking up the stairs and could vaguely make out the peak. Of course it looked closer than it actually was, but it was still within my sight. This was honestly much more peaceful than my Fuji hike because there weren’t nearly as many people. I could focus on the views and climb with ease in anticipation of climbing my first active volcano.
Initially the temperature was mild so the climb was very easy. I wasn’t sweating or noticing a huge incline so I didn’t need to stop for many breaks. As I started seeing signs that indicated the summit was near, the air felt cooler and I noticed there was snow on the ground. It was then I realized the mistake that I had made—I wasn’t wearing enough layers!! I was only wearing a t-shirt, shorts, and a waterproof Nike jacket so I didn’t have any heatwear. Fortunately the cold didn’t bother me due to the adrenaline that was pumping through my veins. Plus I’ve gone running in the snow in Michigan wearing shorts before, so I suppose this wasn’t the first time I had been exposed to this kind of temperature. The wind started to make my cheeks turn red, but by that point I had already reached the top.
Seeing this beautiful crater lake Baengnokdam (백록담/白鹿潭) was my reward:
The lake at the summit of Mt. Hallasan.
I was so happy to not only have climbed Japan’s tallest mountain, but now Korea’s too!! I actually enjoyed this more than Fuji due to it being shorter and having the crater lake at the top. Not to mention that there were far less people. I would recommend climbing both if you are a nature enthusiast traveling through Asia. The feeling of looking down at the island once you’ve reached the top is one of pure victory. I enjoyed experiencing snow on a sub-tropical island even if I was unprepared for it too.
Here is a video of us climbing towards the top:
After snapping a bunch of pictures, I started my descent on the Gwaneumsa Trail. I was still freezing, but fortunately the further I climbed down the faster my body temperature returned to normal. I was high on adrenaline and knew food was waiting for me at the bottom too, so that was my main motivation!
The Gwaneumsa Trail was initially a bit steep to climb down, but provided me with some gorgeous mountain views. There was also a sign warning us to steer clear of wild boars. Who would have guessed they were native to Korea!! I found that getting down took less time than I expected, so I completed the climb in around 8 hours. Not bad for my first big climb of the year. I celebrated with some Korean seafood pancakes by a place near the trail entrance. I tried to use a map to figure out the bus schedule, but unfortunately I didn’t have any service and was informed that buses are really infrequent here. Despite the language barrier, the store owners were kind enough to call a taxi for me that wasn’t very expensive. I was very thankful for my experience and also that the weather stayed nice!
After my hike I decided to try a hot spring in Jeju, because why not? Tapdong Seawater Sauna (which is now sadly closed) was closest to my hotel so I decided to walk there. Two things about it really amazed me. The first was that you could go swimming in certain baths. Usually at Japanese onsen, swimming is forbidden. However, Jeju has a huge female diving community, so I could see where this makes sense. The second was that Korean people brought water with them into the sauna. That is also not allowed in Japan, but with the super hot temperature I could see why people did it. The culture here was a lot more laid back which I really enjoyed. The concierge jokingly called me an alcoholic because I was still carrying soju around with me, but I laughed and said it’s because I just climbed Hallasan and I was on vacation. It was hard to believe that this was only my second day!!
After two awe-inspiring hikes through the forest that inspired Princess Mononoke and to Japan’s oldest tree, I decided to spend my final day in Yakushima relaxing at beaches and hot springs. Though I went on this trip nearly three years ago, I still remember how breathtaking it was to this day. This island undoubtedly has some of the best nature in Japan because it’s so remote from civilization. This is the perfect place to reflect on life and also do meditation. Please see Part 1 of my adventures in Yakushima for reference.
Day 3: Beach and Hotspring Adventures
Since I didn’t rent a car and was backpacking my way around, I decided to book a private tour through Yes Yakushima so I could see more of the island. The main advantage of doing this is you’ll have an experienced guide to show you around and they can cater the tour to fit your interests. I chose the Island Tour since I had already had my fill of hiking, but there are many other options available. What’s amazing is their guides can take you almost anywhere on the island; even to the most difficult mountains that not many people have climbed. Solo tours start at 27000 yen per person, but the price is worth it for what you get to see. The money you spend also goes to environmental maintenance.
Distilleries, Beaches, Crabs & Hotsprings
My guide Brian was also from the US, but he married a Japanese native on Yakushima and hiked there for years so his knowledge of the island was vast. My tour started off with a bang when we visited a Yaksuhima sake distillery and I knocked back a few samples. Sweet potatoes are very famous here so some breweries use them as a base for sake. We also drove past some mini farms where you could insert coins into a post box and take vegetables. The stores are completely unmanned so it shows there is a high level of trust between people on this island.
After eating a vegetarian bento by the beach, we drove to Hirauchi Sea Spa where you can go swimming and also wade in the tidal hot springs. The best time to visit is during low tide which usually your tour guide can predict. You can come here during high tide too, but the hot springs will be too deep to enter. I spent a good 2 hours here swimming and wading in the hot springs. The hot springs are unisex so you can choose to wear your swimsuit or jump in naked (I wore my swimsuit since I was on a tour).
Hirauchi Sea Spa during low tide.
While I was walking on the beach, I saw some amazing sea crabs chilling in the rocks:
Here’s an extremely old video I took of them. Their eyes are over-sized and adorable:
I will never forget how vibrantly blue the water was here. Out of everywhere in Japan, Iwami and islands in Kyushu like Yakushima have the best beaches. I also saw Yakushima-todai Lighthouse which is painted white and looks like a small chapel.
After having my fill of swimming, we decided to drive to some waterfalls next. The following waterfall is the most beautiful waterfall that I’ve seen in Japan:
Ohko Waterfall
A rainbow is reflected in the emerald pool of Ohko Waterfall.
We arrived at the perfect time of day because I got to see a rainbow reflected in the water of Ohko Waterfall!! This was such an amazing sight to behold! Plus there were hardly any other people around so you could only hear the splash of the water. I sat on the rocks and mediated for a few minutes as cool water droplets splashed my back. As I was meditating, a piece of bark from a Yaku Cedar tree fell from the cliff and drifted towards me. Brian carefully picked it up from the water and held onto it. He informed me that under no circumstances are people of the island allowed to strip bark from trees, but if the bark is removed by natural causes then people are allowed to take it. Since he said he was skilled in instruments, farming, and other outdoor activities, I figured he would think of the perfect use for it. He let me hold it and see it up close which was very special to see. It really is as if the gods were smiling upon us here.
Senpiro Waterfall
Though there were no rainbows here, this was still an amazing waterfall to see. While Ohko is best viewed from sea level, Senpiro is best viewed from the mountains. The granite valleys here were quite the sight. Hiking up to the level where you can see them only takes a few minutes and is way easier than the hike to Jomonsugi. I am continually impressed by the harmony of land and water you can see on Yakushima!
Gajumaru Banyan Tree
After our waterfall treks, we drove to a mysterious forest in Nakama Village. At first glance, it looked similar to the Shiratani Unsuikyo which I explored the other day. However, Brian informed me that this is home of the Gajumaru Banyan Tree—a magical tree that grows by dropping down roots from its limbs into the ground! The roots can also sprout onto existing trees which give this forest its twisted shape. Yakushima is unique because a lot of the island is still uninhabited and these trees can grow wild. Perhaps one day the Gajumaru Banyan Tree limbs will engulf the entire island. No one knows for sure, but it sure was fun to ponder about what could happen in the future.
At this point the journey was gradually unwinding. I felt completely satisfied with what I had seen in the three days that I spent here. On our way back to Miyanoura Pier where I planned to sail back to Kagoshima, we passed by some wild monkeys and a tree that resembles Cthulhu. The more time you spend here, the more aesthetic things you’ll start to notice:
Final Thoughts
Though this may sound a bit hypocritical, any pictures you see of Yakushima online don’t do it justice. The island is extremely vast and beautiful and the only way to truly see this is to embark on the long journey and see it for yourself. That being said, my trip here was absolutely perfect minus not packing enough food during my hikes. The first two days I spent almost entirely by myself hiking and seeing Japan’s oldest tree. This was great because it gave me the chance to create my own personal connection with the island. I didn’t feel lonely because I was on a journey. The last day I reflected with an experienced guide and spent a lot of time relaxing. I realized from talking to him there is still so much of Yakushima that is unexplored. Was three days enough for what I wanted to see? Definitely. Would I want to come back in the future and see more? Also yes! 3-5 days is what I would recommend to most people. Be sure to respect nature and to also treasure your time here.
On my 24th birthday in October nearly two years ago, I decided I travel all the way from Tokyo to Yakushima so I could see the lush island that inspired one of my favorite movies of all time—Princess Mononoke. This journey took nearly 10 hours and involved a lot of hiking, but it was one of the best experiences of my life. Yakushima has so much unspoiled nature and is also home of Japan’s oldest recorded tree in history: Jomonsugi. There are numerous hiking trails and endless adventure to be had here. In this article I will be retelling the tale of my 3 day stay and also my recommended hiking spots and tours. I would plan on staying here for 3-5 days if possible so you can fully enjoy the nature!
About Yakushima
Yakushima is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Kyushu, Japan. The island is mostly mountainous with 16 main hiking trails. Many of them intersect so you can choose the path that best fits what you want to see. There are mountain huts scattered in the forest that you can stay at for free overnight, but it is possible to complete most hikes within 6 – 12 hours. Yakushima is close to Okinawa giving it a subtropical climate (in October I could still go swimming). You can travel here any time of year, but I would recommend avoiding the rainy season (early June-July) as the forest can get flooded.
What’s amazing is that even today many parts of this island remain unexplored. Some areas outside of the trails are so steep it is not recommended to climb them without a guide or special equipment. Fortunately the main trails are marked well enough that you can navigate them without a guide. Just be sure to bring enough food and be cautious when climbing over rocks, steep areas, and places with low visibility.
*Maps are courtesy of Yakumonkey (a really handy guide for exploring).
Reasons to go:
Arguably one of the most beautiful forests to hike through in Japan.
If you are a Princess Mononoke fan, exploring Yakushima is a dream come true.
You can see rare wildlife (both plants and animals).
The freshwater streams are so clean that you can drink out of them.
The beaches are wonderful for swimming.
This island is extremely remote and still has a lot of things to be discovered.
The downside is that transportation is limited, and if you are not an outdoors person then you may find some of the hikes a bit difficult. However, people of all ages have completed the hike to Jomonsugi and there are hiking groups available for all experience levels. You can also choose to hike completely alone without a group like I did.
Here are the main spots that I hiked to:
Day 1: Shiratani Unsuikyo
Shiratani Unsuikyo is a dream-like world full of lush green mosses and some of Japan’s oldest cedars that inspired the setting of Princess Mononoke. The lead artist of the movie, Oga Kazuo, spent quite a long time here sketching scenes that were used in the film. You can easily see why this setting was chosen, as it is unspoiled and far from civilization making it the perfect home for creatures of the forest. The water that runs from the stream here is so fresh that you can re-fill your water bottle with it and drink it while you hike. I had never been to a place so clean and beautiful in my life, so this was one of the best places to spend my 24th birthday!
Three of the oldest cedar trees here are: Nidaiosugi, Kugurisugi, and Yayoisugi. Though it’s easy to get lost in the beauty of the forest, there are clear signs and markings around to guide you. Keep your eyes out for deer too! You’re likely run into other tour groups going around but they are easy to avoid. This hike is not particularly strenuous; just remember to watch out for rain that makes the stones and moss slippery.
I arrived on a foggy day, so this was the view I got from the highest point of the forest:
Shiratani Unsuikyo covered in a mysterious blanket of fog.
I was not disappointed by this view because it looked like I was walking through the clouds! The fog gave the forest an eerie glow and you could still make out all of the main sightseeing points. Fortunately my other two days here were completely sunny.
Duration: 4-6 hours of hiking Admission Fee: 500 yen
My Recommendation: There are two main paths you can use to enter, but I recommend entering from the Miyanoura side because there are more frequent buses that lead there and back from the port. You do not need a guide to hike through this area as it is pretty straightforward. I came here by myself and did not have a single dull moment.
Day 2: Jomonsugi (Japan’s Oldest Tree)
Behold, the oldest tree in Japan (around 7,200 years old)!
One of the most magical hikes in Japan is to the oldest tree in this country: The Legendary Jomonsugi. Upon reaching the tree, you will receive its holy blessing and have explored much of Yakushima’s beauty. You can actually access a route to Jomonsugi from the Shiratani Unsuikyo, but it is a strenuous hike so I recommend seeing them on separate days. I enjoyed this hike much more than I did Fuji due to the beautiful cedar scenery. Jomonsugi is quite massive in size (standing at 83 feet) and is like no other tree I’ve ever seen. Besides the tree, there are many other aesthetic things to see on your way there:
Wilson’s Stump: The heart-shaped stump.
The main points of interest on the way there are Wilson’s Stump and the abandoned logging village of Kosugidani. Wilson’s Stump mysteriously formed a heart shape after the tree was cut down. It was discovered by Ernest Henry Wilson who was an English botanist that came to Yakushima in the early 1900s. Little remains of the old village (I thought it was a series of old storehouses when I first saw it), but historically it had a major impact on the development of Yakushima.
The hike starts off very easy. You walk on what looks like railroad tracks into the forest and go through a few tunnels. The hike is 22km but doesn’t get steep until you are much deeper in the forest. I saw some wild mushrooms on the way there. A tour guide told me that there’s a possibility that magic mushrooms may exist here in the wild though I didn’t try eating any. The most difficult part is climbing up the narrow trails that lead to Jomonsugi. Fortunately hiking through the Shiratani Unsuikyo the other day prepared me for that. I reached Jomonsugi in around 3.5 hours and was stunned by its beauty. I turned around and saw people of all ages smiling. We had made the mythical trek!
As I gazed at Jomonsugi, I was reminded of the World Tree from Tales of Symphonia.
As I gazed at Jomonsugi, I couldn’t help but think about the World Tree from one of my favorite videogames of all time: Tales of Symphonia. This tree is what keeps the world alive in the game, and I felt a similar power from Jomonsugi. It is the heart of Yakushima that keeps the forest safe. Or keeps tourism alive. Something like that. I couldn’t think straight because I was so hungry. Fortunately I had some riceballs prepared for me by my hotel:
Riceballs from Suimeiso.
On the way down I noticed I was starting to get fatigued and my legs started to hurt. The last two hours of this hike were the worst. I run every day and am in shape, but I am not used to these forest hikes as I live in the city. At one point I started to get spots in my vision, but fortunately I was not in danger of passing out. I listed to Geofront by Carpainter and focused on climbing down to the rhythm. I vowed if I survived this then I would someday see this artist in person (which I did a month later). When I got back to the train track part of the trail, I was able to sit down and rest for a bit. I think the hike only took me around 7 hours. It was worth it for everything that I got to experience.
Duration: 6-10 hours of hiking (including travel to the trail head by bus) Admission Fee: 1000 yen
My Recommendation: Get up as early as you can (preferably around 4am) and take the earliest bus to Arakawa Trail from where you are staying. Your accommodation can help you as this is the most popular destination in Yakushima. Most buses will arrive around 6am-7am. PACK LOTS OF SNACKS! The bus was full when I returned so I had to wait for the next one back. I killed time with photo editing and it was alright, but I wish I had prepared more. Regardless, this is one of the best hikes you’ll find in Japan and is extremely rewarding. Do it if you get the chance!
Where to Stay: Suimseiso Minshuku
If you came here because of the movie like myself, then staying at Suimeiso Minshuku is your best bet! This backpackers-styled hostel is only 3500 yen a night, includes some meals and snacks, and has signed Miyazaki drawings that are framed and displayed in the common room. That is because Miyazaki was actually a former guest here! The friendly staff are extremely hard-working and will make you feel welcome here. I had trouble initially figuring out the bus routes, but they took the time to assist me.
If tatami rooms are not your style, you can either send an inquiry to one of the Yakushima tour websites or check what’s available on Booking. There are resorts available, but I would recommend saving that money for a more famous beach area like Okinawa. When you’re in Yakushima, you’re going to want to be exploring nature as much as possible so staying inside is not ideal.
Food
To avoid the mistake I made of not having enough food while hiking, I HIGHLY recommend placing an order for breakfast and snacks from your accommodation in advance. Since the majority of people that come to Yakushima are hikers and backpackers, almost all hotels will do this for you. Tours will usually include a meal too.
After being famished from my hike to Jomonsugi, I found a restaurant called Smiley near my hotel that had delicious sandwiches, soup, ice cream, and cookies shaped like the island. Now that was a satisfying meal! There are other small restaurants and convenience stores around the ports too, but usually they are not open in the early morning when it’s recommended to start your hike. It gets dark on the island around 7pm, so be sure to be careful of time. Packing snacks is ideal and will save you a lot of time.
Access & Transportation
From Tokyo Haneda Airport, I flew to Kagoshima Airport the night before I sailed to Yakushima. This cost around 20,000 yen and takes 2 hours. I stayed at a cheap net cafe called Jiyu Kukan by Kagoshima Port which is fortunately close to the station.
A stray cat in Kagoshima that decided to follow me around. Will I become a magical girl now?
In the morning, I bought a roundtrip ferry ticket to Yakushima for 16,600 yen (the return trip must be used within 7 days but I was only staying for 3 days). There are around 8 ferries that go to Miyanoura Port daily. You can choose to stay somewhere here, but more backpackers stay in the Anbo Port area (which is where I stayed).
If you have any questions or would like to purchase a ticket in advance, I would recommend checking out Yes Yakushima’s website because they have updated time tables that change per season. You can also fly here, but I decided to go by boat because I thought it would be more fun. The ride takes around 2-3 hours.
Once on the island, you can get your accommodation to help you book a taxi or take the buses around. I decided to go buy bus because it was extremely cheap. You can rent a car, but some of the roads go deep into the mountains and are a bit dangerous for a driver who is inexperienced. I would leave it to the bus drivers personally.
In my next article, I will be talking about a private tour that I went on during my final day here exploring beaches and hotsprings around the island. Please look forward to it!
Nearly two years ago, I ventured north into the mountainous region of Nagano with two missions to accomplish. The first was to see the famous hotspring-loving monkeys in Jigokudani. Though a lot of monkeys in Asia are known to be feisty, the Japanese macaque (also known as snow monkeys) are said to be pretty relaxed. It’s probably due to the fact that they have their own 24-hour hotspring to themselves. The second objective was to go to a rare event in Matsumoto called Glaass Lounge. This party is a gathering of house and techno enthusiasts that goes all night, and on this particular weekend Carpainter and Seimei of Trekkie Trax were to appear. The stars had aligned for the ultimate weekend and I couldn’t be more excited!
Jigokudani Monkey Park
As soon as I arrived to Nagano Station, I went to the ticket office and purchased a day pass for Jigokudani Park. The park is about an hour bus ride from the station, but you have the chance to see rare scenes of the countryside so it’s not a bad trip. From the bus stop, the walk to the monkey park is about 30 mins through a lush pine forest. When you get to the top of a hill in the mountains, you will see dozens of monkeys running through a roped-off area full of hotsprings:
Though you sadly cannot enter the hotsprings with the monkeys, you can get pretty close to them. Often they will go under the ropes and leisurely mingle with people. It is advised not to look them directly in the eyes because that is a sign of aggression. Also there are notices posted not to feed them and to be careful with your bags (a.k.a. common sense). I would allow yourself at least 1.5 hours to fully enjoy the park. The monkeys are quite fun to observe and the mountain air feels lovely.
Besides the monkeys, the scenery surrounding the park made it worth the trip. The mountain backdrop on the lake looked like something straight out of a postcard. Plus hiking through the forest was an awesome workout and I saw many beautiful rivers along the way. You can see the Japanese Alps from here too:
Admission Fee: 800 yen to enter the park // 3200 yen for admission to the park and roundtrip bus fare (I recommend this option unless you rent a car)
Although I had fun here, the day I went the monkeys weren’t particularly interesting in bathing even though it was cold out and there was snow on the ground. Hakodate in Hokkaido has a better monkey onsen that you can see. The monkeys there seem to love hotsprings more than the monkeys I saw here, but both are worth checking out.
Food
Due to having to catch a train into the city that night, I didn’t have a lot of time to look for places to eat but fortunately Nagano Station had me covered. I managed to find some amazing kitsune udon (noodles topped with a thin layer of fried tofu), and oyaki (stuffed dumplings). I was happy to see they had a number of vegetarian options and were very cheap to order individually. Oyaki are a Nagano specialty so definitely try them if you get the chance! You can find them literally all over the place in a variety of flavors.
Glaass Lounge
I arrived at Studio SONIC around 11pm when Glaass Lounge had just kicked off. The club had a simple setup with a DJ booth in the front and a bar to the side, but since it was compact it was easy to socialize with people. I found my friends immediately and told them the story of the bathing monkeys. It felt great to experience the music scene of Matsumoto out here in the mountains. A number of these DJs come to Tokyo events every once in a while too.
Monolith Slip, a duo of two music producers from this area were one of my favorite acts. They create a lot of rave music and were featured on an earlier Haka Gang x Trekkie Trax compilation:
Besides them, I of course enjoyed seeing Carpainter as the featured guest. As always, his techno/house mixes are amazing:
This party went on until 5am and was an experience I’ll never forget. I haven’t been back to Nagano in over 2 years, but if there are more music events like these in the fture then I’ll definitely be tempted!
From Tokyo Station, take the Hokuriku-Shinkansen to Nagano Station. This will take 2 hours and costs 8400 yen one way. From Nagano Station you can take a bus to the monkey forest and the Shinano Limited Express to reach Matsumoto City. All tickets can be purchased on they day you arrive, but if you are coming during a holiday I would book them in advance. I would recommend 2 days and 1 night here to see everything.
Since I didn’t have a lot of money at time, I stayed at a net cafe called Carefree Cafe for a few hours after the party. However, there are a lot of great hotspring resorts and ryokan you can stay in that are better! Booking usually has some great deals depending on what you are looking for.
The snow on the mountains behind Nikko Station give it a scenic winter look.
Yesterday I wrote about the popular mountainous hotspring getaway Hakone, so today I’m writing about Tokyo’s other most popular day trip: Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture. Like Hakone, Nikko is also a famous hotsprings area located in the mountains that has stunning nature, temples, and a lot of parks as well. Between the two of them, Hakone is my favorite because the hotsprings and museums are easier to reach by bus. Nikko is more spaced-out than Hakone and some of the hot springs take over two hours via bus to reach. That is a lot of traveling to do if you’re just coming for the day, but if you really like hiking you may find Nikko more interesting. Both are worth seeing at least once.
I’ve been to Nikko twice (once in the summer and once in the winter for the snow festival) so I will be detailing my favorite discoveries in this article. All of these places can be reached via bus from Nikko Station:
Kegon Falls & Toshogu Shrine
Kegon Falls is one of the most gorgeous waterfalls in Tochigi Prefecture. It was formed by lava that rerouted a river into Lake Chuzenji. We came here in the dead of winter when the surrounding area was covered by snow and slightly frozen, but the waterfall was still freely falling from the mountains. I will never forget how beautiful this scenery was. No matter what time of year you visit you will have an unforgettable view!
In the summer I visited Nikko’s most famous shrine: Toshogu. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a good reason. This shrine serves as remembrance for Tokugawa Ieyasu who ruled the Tokugawa Shogunate for over 200 years. This shrine complex consists of several buildings with the main one being adorned in golden architecture that gleams in the sunlight. The shrines are located in a forested area so visiting each of them is quite a nice hike. I’m glad that I’ve traveled here during both the summer and winter so I can see the lovely change of scenery.
Kegon Falls has no admission fees, but it costs 550 yen to go to the observation deck (which is worth it in my opinion).
Toshogu Shrine Entrance Fee: 1300 yen
Yuba Udon
Nikko is famous for yuba which is literally tofu skin. That might not sound very appealing by itself, but it’s quite delicious when paired with or added to other dishes. I tried Yuba udon with my friend and it tasted amazing! The soft texture of the yuba paired with the noodles and broth gave the dish a unique texture. I also tried some yuba slices on the side just so I could fully analyze the taste. They are not as solid as tofu and are easier to eat. My favorite tofu of all time is fried tofu or spicy tofu since they have the most flavor. Yuba is rather flavorless, but it’s good for your health if eaten in small amounts. We went to the restaurant across from the station called ゆば料理, but you can try it almost anywhere in Nikko.
Yumoto Onsen Snow Festival
Each year in February, Yumoto Onsen has a snow festival in which igloos with ice sculptures are illuminated similar to the Sapporo Snow Festival. However, since this hotsprings resort is secluded, there are not as many people here and you can fully enjoy the illuminations to your heart’s content. It was quite a long journey from Tokyo, but my friend and I managed to arrive here and back within a day. The journey took 3.5 hours one way, but Yumoto Onsen is one of the best hotsprings in Nikko. After doing some photography here, we used the hotsprings for under 1000 yen. Similar to Gero Onsen and Kusatsu, you can choose from a large variety of onsen. Many were available for day trippers like us. The snow festival is free to see.
Here is a video I took in early 2018 of the igloos. I hope to take higher quality footage of another illuminated snow festival in the future:
Tobu World Square
Because I’m a fan of museums and architecture, I had to check out Tobu World Square. This is a theme park at Kinugawa Onsen (another famous hotspring) that has over 100 scales models of iconic places from around the world. My personal favorite was the pyramids from Egypt. If you stand in front of them and take a picture of yourself, it looks like you’re actually in the desert! The coliseum from Rome is also aestheically pleasing to see. I loved the mini recreation of the Dragon and Taiwan Pagoda as well. Now that I’ve been there, it hold much more meaning to me. The more you walk through the park, the more you want to travel! Summer is the ideal time to come here in my opinion.
Entrance Fee: 2500 yen (a bit expensive, but this is one of the most interesting museums in Nikko).
Walking in an Edo Wonderland
Since I was already near Kinugawa Onsen where many museums are located, I figured I’d go walking in an Edo Wonderland. As the name implies, this is an amusement park dedicated to the Edo period of Japan. If you’ve studied Japanese history, then you’ll know that this was a revolutionary time for the country. There were samurais, economic growth, and a lot of development across Japan. Many anime and novels are based off this time period. Edo Wonderland plays homage to that and gives visitors the chance to step back into that world. You can visit ninja houses and temples here, dress up in formal Edo clothing, take a boat cruise down the river, and see all sorts of performances.
Since I’ve been living in Japan for while, the most interesting part was simply exploring the Edo town for me. However, there’s a lot more you can do here! There is an archery dojo, countless restaurants, and museums where you can get even further lost in time.
Entrance Fee: 4800 yen before 2pm, 4100 after 2pm (it’s best to come in the afternoon as this is quite expensive)
Access
The best way to access Nikko is from Tokyo’s Ueno Station. At the tourism office, they have often have discounts and deals as Nikko is a popular destination. From Ueno, you can take the Hibiya Line to Kita-senju Station, then the Tobu Limited Express to reach Tobu-Nikko Station. This takes approximately 2 hours and costs 3500 yen.
As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve never stayed overnight at Nikko before but it’s something I’d like to try in the future. Kinugawa Onsen is one of the centrally located and seems like a good option because you can reach the other areas of Tochigi Prefecture quite easily from it.
The ceiling of Enryuin features hundreds of painted yokai by Shigeru Mizuki.
After riding camels in Tottori and swimming in the timeless ocean of Iwami, I set my sights on climbing Mt. Daisen which is about an hour away from Tottori Station. Daisen-Oki National Park is quite expansive and has beaches, mountains, and the remnants of a volcano that is said to be inhibited by the gods. There is also a lot of interesting wildlife you can see here such as salamanders and beautiful flora. I even ran into a herd of cows on my way to the top. Although I didn’t make it all the way up due to fog and visibility issues, I had the chance to explore some temples buried deep in the forest and bathe in a natural hotspring. Though it’s quite remote from the major cities of Japan, Daisen is the perfect place for a hiking retreat or those who want to explore places outside of Fuji. You could spend anywhere from a day to a week hiking around all of the trails here.
Exploring Mt. Daisen
The main trail to Misen Peak takes about 3 hours to climb, making the total climb around 4-6 hours. I came here on a humid day in August, and unfortunately thick fog covered a lot of the trail so I only climbed for about 1.5 hours. However, in that time I was able to make it to all of the temples and attractions that this trail is famous for. I first stopped at the Daisen Farm Home of Milk to gaze at the cows living their peaceful farm life and try some of the famous ice cream here. It was amazing as expected. Next, I ventured to the two famous temples here: Daisenji and Enryuin. Due to the fog I got lost on the way to Enryuin and accidentally walked through someone’s backyard in the forest, but they were thankfully kind enough to point me in the right direction. I arrived in yokai heaven:
Daisenji is classic Buddhist temple that can only be viewed from the outside, where as Enryuin has an immaculate interior design and is designed for meditation. Both are worth checking out to see the history and connection between them. It is said that although yokai are monsters, they are viewed as gods here because they have the power to scare people and drive out their impure desires for the greater good. At Enryuin, you can lay on your back and meditate by looking at the artwork of yokai painted on the ceiling. They were drawn by Shigeru Mizuki, who is also the author of the manga series GeGeGe no Kitaro. The monk here was very nice and welcomed me with kindness.
After having my fill of yokai watching (punny), I decided to seek out some food. Hinokami Goen Yuin is a really handy place because it has hotsprings, guesthouses, food, and campground access. I bought a soba set there and also bathed in the hotspring for an hour. It started raining on the mountain so I came at the ideal time. It was relaxing to watch the rain fall off the plains of the mountain while I relaxed at a sheltered outdoor hotspring. This is peak mountain life (/end pun).
For a full list of attractions you can see in Daisen, please see their official website. Usually the weather here is quite pleasant, but unfortunately I came during a rainy time. If I come back I definitely want to explore the beaches and more of the volcanoes.
The Ghost Town of Yonago
Once the rain cleared, I decided to head to the ghost town of Yonago to see what it had to offer. Since I prayed at Enryuin and survived the storm, I figured I could get through this. Yonago is only an hour away from Daisen and is said to have a spiritual influence. It is also the hometown of previously mentioned manga artist Shigeru Mizuki, so you can find his yokai artwork all over the place by walking around the streets from the station. Did I see any ghosts here? Many. Take a look for yourself:
The design of this town is extremely aesthetic which is why it initially attracted my attention. Everything from the streetlamps to the outdoor gardens to even the vehicles have some kind of strong yokai influence. Though these are anime versions he created of the scarier yokai depicted in old Japanese folklore, they have an artistic sense that attract a number of visitors to the town. I have never watched or read GeGeGe no Kitaro, but I can see why it’s so popular in Japan. It’s a good way to get younger audiences interested in studying the myths behind these strange creatures. Now I want to study more too!
I should also note that there is some amazing aesthetic food here including eyeball mochi, yokai oden, and all sorts of spooky sake:
This town is somewhat touristy, but visiting a yokai town is something that not many people can say they’ve done. I had a lot of fun doing photography here and can gladly say that it was worth my time. During this trip I learned that ghosts can definitely be your friends.
Access
From Tottori Station, I road the San-In Line to Yonago Station. This took about one hour and cost 1600 yen.
Daisen has three main points of access. I came here from a bus from Yonago Station. Please see the Daisen Guide for more information. Getting here should only take 40 mins – 1 hour, just be sure to watch the time tables. You can also take a taxi.
After making my pilgrimage to the real-life village from Your Name, I decided to take the Hida Express down to Gero Onsen; a popular hot springs town and resort destination in Gifu Prefecture. I arrived at the perfect time in early April when the cherry blossoms were in full bloom and nearly everything in nature looked picturesque. The town is pretty straightforward to navigate with a river that surrounds a free public outdoor hot spring and several buildings with more hot springs and saunas available for day use. There are more secluded resorts up in the mountains. Even if you’re not interested in hot springs, there are still a number of parks and shrines that you can see. I spent around three hours exploring Gero Onsen and it was very aesthetic day trip.
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When I got off at Gero Onsen Station, I first walked to the Funsenchi outdoor hot spring so I could see the beautiful park next to it. This is the best place to view the sakura in Gero making it a wonderful spot for photography. You can walk across the rocks that surround the hot spring to see the Hida River and mountains too. Walking across the bridge will give you a great view of the town as well.
Funsenchi is free to use for all visitors as long as you wear a bathing suit but it’s quite small. If you are here just for the day I recommend the following hot springs:
Sachi no Yu: My personal favorite that has an indoor hot tub, waterfall bath, and outdoor hot spring. Entrance is only 350 yen.
Curegarden Open-air Bath: A large collection of outdoor hot springs with amazing views. I wanted to go here, but it was sadly closed due to the COVID-19. I will go again if I get the chance. Entrance is 700 yen but likely worth it.
Shirasagi no Yu: This is a western-styled bath with no outdoor hot springs, but reviews say it’s good. If you go, please tell me how it is. Entrance is 360 yen.
*For a full list of resorts, please see the official Gero Onsen Guide.
After bathing for an hour at Sachi no Yu and feeling completely refreshed afterward, I decided to visit a temple called Onsenji and pray to the hot spring gods. This was about a 15 minute walk on an incline but it was extremely fun because I got to see more of the town while listening to all of my favorite music. When I reached the shrine, the sun was setting and I saw an amazing view of it behind the mountains:
Another thing I love about Gero is all of the frog motifs. “Gero” is a noise that frogs make (like ribbit in English) so obviously a frog was the ideal candidate for a mascot here. I tried the Gero Manjuu from a local sweets shop and it was very delicious. I also saw frog stuffed animals in a liquor store and frogs painted on the street. This is truly a Frogger-themed onsen village and it’s kind of awesome.
After spending a good amount of time here, I decided to ride the express train down to Nagoya. I debated about spending the night here because there are cheap hotels and guest houses, but I opted to go to the city instead so I could spend time doing photo editing at one of my favorite 200 yen bars called Moonwalk. Gero Onsen is the ideal day trip but there isn’t much to do at night besides more hot springs. The quality is definitely worth it though!
Access
From Nagoya Station, take the Hida Limited Express to Gero Onsen. This takes around 2 hours and is 4700 yen one way.
I combined this with my trip to Hida-Furukawa, so from there it only takes 1 hour and 2900 yen. If you wake up early enough, you can experience Gero Onsen and the Your Name town in one day. For me, that was the ideal choice.
Last August during the Mountain Day holiday weekend, I ventured to the riverside village of Kibune in Kyoto to try their legendary floating noodles. These somen noodles are very unique because they float down a bamboo shoot directly to your table and are chilled to cool you down during summer season. It’s definitely a dining experience worth having if you enjoy Japanese food! In this article I will be highlighting my summer experience in Kyoto and will hopefully inspire more people to travel here.
*For reference, Mountain Day is a relatively new national holiday that was announced in 2014. It honors the mountainous terrains of this country and most Japanese companies give this day as paid holiday (making it a three day weekend most years). It occurs August 11th. Be aware that this weekend is usually travel-heavy, but you can still see and do a lot if you plan your trip accordingly.
Floating Noodles at Hirobun (in Kibune)
Kibune is a popular resort destination that attracts large numbers of Japanese couples and families each year (which I didn’t realize beforehand), but is also home of the famous Hirobun restaurant that serves floating somen noodles from a bamboo shoot. As the noodles float to your seat, you can stealthily grab with your chopsticks and eat them with soy sauce. Though people make it out to be a challenge, it’s actually not that difficult and the restaurant staff will adjust the speed if they see you are having trouble. The last batch of noodles is marked pink so you know when your course is over. We paid around 2000 yen for a noodle course with dessert and enjoyed the experience thoroughly.
The main con of this was the three hour wait time… Unfortunately this activity is so popular in the summer that it attracts hundreds of people per day and there are limited seats at the floating somen table. There is no reservation system, so you must show up in person to write your name on a wait list in order of who arrived first. We arrived around 12pm and already there were many people ahead of us. However, the plus side is that there are so many things to see in Kibune that you can easily leave and come back when it is close to your turn.
While we waited, we walked around the river, tried some ice cream from a local confectionery, and hiked by the Kibune Shrine Okumiya so we could test our luck. There is also the nearby Kurumadera Temple and hotspring that you can visit to kill time. If you think about it, three hours in nature really goes by quickly. It would be a lot more mundane if we had to wait that long for a restaurant in the city. At first I hesitated about waiting, but now I’m so happy that I did because I got to experience pretty much everything Kibune has to offer.
Getting to Kibune
From Kyoto Station, take the Nara Line Rapid Miyakoji to Tofukuji Station, then the Keihan Main Line Semi-Express to Demachiyanagi Station Station, then the Eizan Main Line Local to Kibuneguchi Station. From here you can take a local bus to the shrine. Though it involves a few transfers, the journey only takes about 1.5 hours and costs 1020 yen making it the perfect day trip from Kyoto.
Arguably one of the best views this forest has to offer.
With its vast nature including a bamboo grove, the Oi River which you can go sailing on, and a monkey park, Arashiyama is hands down one of the most popular day trips from Kyoto City. Though this area attracts a large number of tourists each year, it’s easy to avoid them by taking side trails off the bamboo grove trail. I was able to find complete bliss in solitude while hiking to several areas and listening to my favorite music. I originally traveled here in 2018, but came back to try the delicious chilled soba noodles at a famous restaurant last year. In this article I will be writing about the highlights of my Arashiyama hiking adventure and hopefully will inspire more people to visit!
Floating Down the Oi River
When you get off at Arashiyama Station, one of the first things you’ll notice is the gently flowing Oi river. There are several shacks where you can rent boats and go on tours down the river and into the forested area. This is one of the best ways to explore Arashiyama, so I opted for a private boat tour for 3000 yen. Group tours are also available for a lower price. The wooden boat has padded seats so its quite comfortable, and you can see beautiful scenes from floating down the river that you can’t see on foot!
While we were sailing a food boat (food truck but in boat form) sailed up to us and offered to cook me something. I decided I wanted grilled squid and they made it right in front of me. It was truly and amazing experience! I’ve explored a floating village in Cambodia before which was quite large, but this river is much smaller and more relaxed. If you love boating then there are a lot of amazing places in Asia that are worth checking out. I aim to explore as many as I can.
I didn’t have the best camera on me at the time, but here is some footage of me sailing down the river on a wooden boat. It was a pleasant trip that only takes about 30 mins:
Sunset at the Kimono Forest
If you come to Arashiyama, then you definitely need to stay and watch the sun set slowly on the mountains before you leave. First the sky will flash to a bright gradient of red, orange, and yellow, then fade to a gentle magenta and pink hue. Afterwards there is a garden of kimono-patterned pillars near Randen Arashiyama Station that becomes illuminated at night. I had a fantastic time walking through here and taking pictures—it felt as if I had slipped into another world with all of the colors! These memories still burn very bright in my mind today.
Bamboo Forest and Monkey Mountain
The main tourist attraction of Arashiyama is the bamboo forest which is about a 10 min walk from the station. The massive stalks of bamboo that surround you are truly astounding. Back in America I had never seen anything like this before, so I was very impressed by this area. There are normally a lot of tourists on the main path, but you can find paths that lead into the mountains like the one pictured on the right to avoid them. If you aim your camera towards the sunlight that is partially blocked by the bamboo stalks you can get some really nice pictures here.
When I hiked up the path shown above, I spotted a very interesting building structure from afar and zoomed into it. It looks like either a shack with clothes hung out to dry or small shrine. Climbing to that area seems like quite a feat because it is not connected to the main path of Arashiyama. “Who lives here?” I wondered 2 years ago, and I still think about it to this very day:
After exploring the paths around the bamboo forest which really don’t take that much time to climb, I recommend checking out the Monkey Park atop a small mountain called Iwatayama. The climb takes about 10-15 mins and you can see a nice view of Kyoto from the top as well as several enthusiastic monkeys. Be sure not to make direct eye contact with them as they can be quite aggressive! However, a barrier will protect you from being attacked my them.
Compared to the monkeys in Thailand, the ones in Kyoto are actually quite nice. However, if you are in Japan for a long time and are able to go to Hokkaido, the Monkey Park in Hakodate is actually much more fun to see. You can watch them bathe in a hotspring and have a clearer view of them with less tourists around you.
Chilled Soba Noodles at Tempura Matsu
While searching for aesthetic food in Kyoto (which is not that difficult to find), I stumbled upon a tempura restaurant that serves soba noodles in a one-of-a-kind bowl made out of ice. As far as I know, no other restaurant besides Tempura Matsu serves soba quite like this. The egg topping mixed with soy sauce gives it an amazing taste. It is best eaten in the summer because it will cool you down. Amazingly even in the warm temperature the ice bowl will hardly melt. I was impressed with the craftsmanship of this dish:
Since I had a long journey here, I decided to reward myself with the course meal that was around 12,000 yen at the time. This is quite expensive, but I believe you are able to order individual items off the menu if you request them. From my experience, it was well worth the price. Carefully prepared seafood, soup, rice, vegetables, soba, and dessert were served to me in this course. Vegetarian options are available as well.
Getting to Arashiyama
Kyoto Station take Sagano Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. This takes about 15 mins and costs only 240 yen making it an extremely cheap trip.
Please note that accommodations here are quite popular, so you might want to book 2 months in advance if you want to stay in a nice onsen resort.
If you are a solo traveler or are on a budget, I recommend day tripping here from Kyoto City since accommodations there are cheaper. If you want to use a day hotspring in Arashiyama, consider trying Fufunoyu. It is only 1000 yen to enter and has a lovely outdoor hotspring that you can use.
I will be writing more about my adventures in Kyoto and accommodation options in my next few posts. Please stay tuned for more info~
View from atop the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas in Kaohsiung, Taiwan.
After fully exploring Pier 2 and Cijin Island, I decided to spend my 2nd day in Kaohsiung seeing some of the major landmarks. Since I rented a bike for 24 hours, I biked 8 km from where I was staying at the pier to reach the famed Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. It was a little scary biking on the highway for the first time in Taiwan, but I managed to survive and catch some neat sights on the way there. The pagodas are surrounded by a lotus pond and are seven stories high, so visiting them is quite the experience. Once you climb all the stairs, you will get the perfect view of the Zuoying District of the city:
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The symbolism of the dragon and tiger is a bit ambiguous, but they both represent a balance of power although they have contrasting characteristics. According to Shaozhi, in Chinese culture dragons are said to control water and have great strength, whereas tigers symbolize righteousness and harmony. I was amazed at how both entrances were designed to fit their appearances. Here is some footage I took from atop the Dragon Pagoda:
According to a sign outside, if you walk through the dragon’s mouth and walk out the tiger’s, it is said to bring good luck. So that’s exactly what I did! It still has yet to come, but it’s only the beginning of the year. Inside you will find illustrations of various Buddhist and Taoist characters:
Surrounding the pagodas are other temples and Buddhist statues that you can easily reach on foot. I didn’t stop to see them all, but you could easily spend a few hours in this district of the city seeing them all. People are very laid-back and friendly too.
Next, I biked to Formosa Boulevard Station so I could see its famous murals. From what I read online, it’s one of the most beautiful stations in Taiwan. It did not fall short of my expectations:
The Dome of Light within the station is the largest glass work in the world and was designed by Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata. I was amazed by how beautiful it was! Various astrological figures are depicted in this glass (some human-like and some creature-like), as well as very intriguing patterns. To me it looks like a galaxy riddled with the mysteries of our origin:
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Another amazing part of Kaohsiung City is its hyper-realistic dog ice cream:
I made a separate post on Aesthetic Food Finds in Taiwan, so please check it out if you are interested! This is my last article in my Taiwan series, but I will be writing a bonus article on the nightlife I experienced here.
From what I’ve experienced, most cities in Taiwan only require 2-3 days of time to see all the major sightseeing spots. I spent around 5 days total in Taipei doing day trips and other activities, but 2 days of full activity worked for me in all the other areas I visited. I hope that everyone can visit this beautiful country and have the same wonderful adventures that I did!
