Another destination that’s been on my bucket list for quite a while is the Kyu-Furukawa Gardens located in western Tokyo, and last month on one of my days off I finally had the chance to visit! These gardens are very famous for their Western meets Japanese design, and the guest house from Umineko no naku koro ni was actually inspired by the manor that acts a as a centerpiece here. You can walk through the interior of the manor and order tea for an extra cost which was extremely worth it. I really felt like I was Beatrice sitting outside on the balcony and gazing upon everyone that walked by!
If this is in Tokyo then you’re probably wondering why it took so long for me to go, but the gardens have been completely closed for over half a year due to the pandemic. From June 4st, 2021, Kyu-Furukawa Gardens have officially re-opened and now everyone can visit! They are limiting the number of visitors but you can reserve a ticket on e-tix for free. I reserved mine three days before and was able to enter without any problem.
Here is a real life to anime comparison of the Western-styled manor I took with my tripod (click to enlarge the images):
To my knowledge the rooms of the manor are occasionally rented out for meetings because I accidentally walked in on one while I was exploring the interior! But without a doubt the main draw is the rose garden outside of the manor and the traditional Japanese garden in the back. Both of these gardens have a lot of rare flowers and I even saw hydrangeas while they were in season. I can see why ryukishi07 chose this location as inspiration for his visual novel series because it is very beautiful and feels like it has an air of mystery to it.
Kyu-Furukawa Gardens are easily accessible by taking the Yamanote Line to Komagome Station and walking 10 minutes. You can walk around the gardens in 1-2 hours depending on if you explore the inside of the manor or not.
Address: 1 Chome-27-39 Nishigahara, Kita City, Tokyo 114-0024
Garden Entrance Fee: 150 yen Manor Entrance Fee: 400 yen Tea Set Fee: 500 yen~
After exploring the Kaiyukan Aquarium and meeting a fire bender on our first day in Osaka, we decided to take our second day at a more leisurely pace. Or so we thought. Despite all the drinking we did the night before, we surprisingly weren’t hungover so it was somewhat of a miracle. Craving Mediterranean and Halal food, I found a Michelen Star restaurant called Ali’s Kitchen right near our hotel. They have a large assortment of Pakistani and Arabic food that we heartily feasted on.
I ordered the Arabic salad and the Baba Ganoush that tasted like nothing I had ever eaten before. It was clear that a lot of special ingredients were used in this style of cooking to give it such an amazing taste. Plus it was extremely healthy too! My boyfriend ordered the keema curry and I could tell by the look on his face that he thoroughly enjoyed it too. This restaurant definitely deserves 5 stars:
Feeling satisfied, we decided to walk around American Street (also called Ame Mura) to see some of the latest Osaka streetwear and colorful architecture. Honestly, the aesthetics here were off the chart. Some of my favorite things that we found was a coffee shop called W/O Stand with a fake vending machine door, a shoe brand called “Dr. ASSY”, colorful fashion and logos, random shrines, and a giant mall with jungle-like foliage called Big Step. I snagged an ASICS jacket for half-off here and they had neon bathrooms too! Plus free table hockey! The highlight was when my boyfriend lost the game by ricocheting the puck off my side and directly into his goal. Good times.
We then decided to explore the “Kyoto of Osaka” and see Mizukake Fudo, a beautiful Buddhist statue that has been covered in moss. This temple is very small but is surrounded by a lot of unique restaurants and bars. The path is connected by Dotonbori’s central streets but it has more of a Gion feel to it. While we were here a small ceremony was going on. Monks were humming and chanting prayers. We left a donation to show thanks and then quietly made our way to our next destination.
My boyfriend decided we should first see Denden Town (the central otaku hub), and then proceed to the old arcades in Shinsekai. I remember going to a maid cafe in Denden Town years ago while I was interviewing for jobs in Osaka. However, I don’t think I had ever seen Shinsekai before because usually I stay in Dotonbori (for sake of parties). Fortunately the two areas are close enough that you can easily walk between them on foot. I was so happy to experience Shinsekai because it preserves the old 80s feel of Japan with its smokey Mahjong parlors and 50 yen arcades. The claw machines here are absolutely hilarious too.
We played Street Fighter and Time Crisis 3 here for a long while and walked around the illuminated streets. There were less people around due to the pandemic but this place still had a lot of charm. I could see Tsutenkaku Tower here and snap some really good pictures. I would really like to come back here and try some sushi in the future! Maybe even spend a night here too!
As we were walking back up Dotonbori to go to the famous hammock cafe called Revarti, we came across a completely random, unannounced matsuri here. Gotta love the Osaka life.
Sadly to our dismay the hammock cafe’s hours had been drastically changed due to the pandemic. Instead of staying open until midnight, they now only stay open until 5pm. Closing at happy hour should be a crime but I vow to come back here some day when they are open. We decided to initiate our backup plan which was the 200 yen bar called Moonwalk and drink cheaply to our heart’s content. The entrance fee is 500 yen, but every drink you order after that is only 200 so you can drink like a sultan. They have all sorts of liqueur that you can experiment with too. My personal favorites are the Dalgona Coffee made with Kahlua and the ice cream grasshopper. Each drink has stats like a Jojo character so you can strategically plan out how shit-faced you’re going to get:
After about an hour of this we were tipsy and ready for the next destination. Our friend who owns the best gaming bar in Osaka, Space Station, invited us out and we drank more coffee drinks and an original cocktail called “Ecco the Dolphin”. We then plopped in the most Australian Bomberman (Bomberman 3) and also played some Nidhogg. I enjoyed looking out the Slime-tinted windows and into the night. The design of this bar is iconic.
After chatting for a good while, we were invited to a music party at Sound Garden. The genre was supposed to be house and techno so I was totally down. The best part about this bar was it had a super comfy couch with a pillow that said “Fuck Tokyo. I [heart] Osaka”. We sat on the couch and laughed about this for a good while. It’s really true.
I was talking about music in Michigan and right as I mentioned Eminem, the DJ started playing “Sing for the Moment“. That was our cue to get up and dance. I was completely lost in the moment and let go of my fears and anxiety. I can’t believe how amazing this trip had turned out! Though our initial plans had slightly derailed, I was so happy that we were here together. A sensation of euphoria came over me and after a while I wanted to wander by the river outside. The music ended around 3am and we decided to make our way there. There was a light rain in the air but it felt fantastic on our skin after dancing that long. The river in Dotonbori had the most beautiful reflections that night:
As the sun rose we cuddled and listened to “P.S. You Rock My World” by Eels. There were kids blasting EDM under the bridge and their playlist accidentally shuffled to “Last Christmas”. It kind of felt like Christmas in July, in a way. I really didn’t want for that night to end but eventually we drifted off to sleep. What happens in Osaka stays in Osaka.
We left a few hours later at 11:30am via the Willer Express Bus and headed back to Nagoya. However, we couldn’t leave without first picking up a souvenir:
This was hands down the best trip to Osaka that I have ever had. There was never really a dull moment—all of it was a highlight reel. I hope to travel again with my boyfriend to Kyoto in the fall and hopefully make another trip back here. Thank you all for reading up to this point! Since we are currently unable internationally, this is the best alternative we could have asked for.
Since I published my introduction of Hanoi yesterday, I’m now going to be detailing my experience here in tropical, colorful, Communist Tokyo! I only stayed in Hanoi for 2 days because I spent most of my time in Ho Chi Minh City and Phu Quoc Island, but it actually ended up being my favorite city in Vietnam. Hanoi is super condensed and has a lot to see, so backpackers will rejoice at how easy and fun it is to explore. I made a lot of friends here that I hope to see again during my future trips!
Hanoi VS Ho Chi Minh
The biggest decision that first time travelers to Vietnam will make is what city they want to see the most. All of my Vietnamese friends in Japan recommended Hanoi because they think it’s prettier, but Ho Chi Minh is cheaper to fly to from most Asian countries so I started there. I researched both cities thoroughly and couldn’t pick a favorite so I decided I’d see them both! Fortunately roundtrip flights between the two cities are only $40 dollars, so you can easily see them both during your trip to Vietnam.
Reasons to go to Hanoi:
The streets are condensed making it easy to get around on foot. Ho Chi Minh has a lot more traffic and you need to take a taxi or motorbike to get to some places.
You can access the emerald waters of Halong Bay from Hanoi. Halong Bay usually takes 2-3 days to fully experience but is one of the prettiest areas of the country.
I found it much more easy to make friends here. Ho Chi Minh is more spread out so meeting people outside of clubs was difficult.
There are more parks and nature around Hanoi. You can also reach Sapa, a beautiful mountain village with terraces, from here.
Reasons to go to Ho Chi Minh
HCM is a huge international business hub which is why flights into this city are less expensive. If you have an international driver’s license and are not afraid of motorbiking through huge crowds, you might save money here.
Though HCM isn’t near any beaches or beautiful waters, Mekong Delta is definitely worth seeing.
HCM has a lot of international cuisine and upscale restaurants. I ate some of the best food I had in Vietnam here.
If you are a history buff, you will enjoy seeing the Cu Chi Tunnels here!
I recommend a minimum of 3 days and 3 nights in each city if possible.
Main Points of Interest
Here are the main points of interest I explored in Hanoi. For food recommendations, please check out my Aesthetic Food Finds article!
Hỏa Lò Prison – One of the most historic prisons used during the Vietnam War. Tickets are around $10.
Ngoc Son Temple – A beautiful white temple located on Hoàn Kiếm Lake in central Hanoi.
Chua Tran Quoc – A pagoda on an islet in central Vietnam. I walked here from my hotel and reached it in 30 minutes. On the way there you can see beautiful parks!
Cat Ba Island – A beautiful island in Halong Bay. I did not visit it because I went to Phu Quoc Island instead, but I would love to go in the future!
Water Puppet Shows – Vietnam is famous for its water puppet shows and my biggest regret is that I didn’t book a ticket in advance to see one. I recommend using a website like GetYourGuide to buy one before your trip because they will deliver it directly to your hotel.
The Obama Combo – You can eat at the same bun cha restaurant as Obama did and order the Obama Combo in Hanoi!
Honestly the highlights of Hanoi were just wandering around the streets and seeing the culture here. This was my first time traveling to a tropical Asian country so it truly felt like an adventure to me. I loved going for morning runs and watching people do yoga in the park. I bargained for a scarf at the Đồng Xuân Market and ate a lot of fresh fruit. Seeing all the different markets influenced by the doi moi policy was eye-opening. This is what I imagined Tokyo would be like if it hadn’t radically reformed after World War II.
However, aside from a few people most residents I encountered in Hanoi seemed truly happy. This made me happy as well!
The Toilet Club
Have you ever dreamed of throwing a Communist party in a toilet? Because at the Toilet Club (formerly known as the IP Club) you totally can! This is where I spent my last night in Hanoi before flying off to the tropical island of Phu Quoc for my 25th birthday. I chose this club because of its meme-worthy name, but the variety of music the DJs spin here is pretty decent. They have regular house and trance nights along with an international selection of artists. You can expect to see a lot of foreigners here, but it’s still a high-class club. Worth the experience in my opinion.
I can’t even remember what I drank here, but I remember coming here on a Monday night so the entrance was free. I met a bunch of backpackers from Australia and we exchanged travel stories. I had so much fun dancing! The club closed around 1am so I ordered a motorbike through Grab back to my hostel because that’s what was most convenient. It was my first time ever riding on the back of a motorcycle, but fortunately I didn’t fall off! What a way to end my night in Hanoi.
Most accommodations in Hanoi are extremely inexpensive, so I decided to book a private room in the center of the city at Hanoi Golden Hotel for $20 per night. The neon sign outside of the hotel makes it look like the entrance to a brothel, but the rooms were extremely clean and the service was outstanding. They upgraded me to a family room for free because they had extra rooms available which was awesome. The staff called me beautiful (in a respectful way) even though I had been walking for hours and my hair was super frizzy. I couldn’t help but smile even though I know that flattery is cheap. I definitely felt good vibes during my entire stay here.
What I liked about Hanoi was that there was no strange cultural or language barrier here like there is in Japan, so temporarily escaping that was nice. Though I could never live longterm in Vietnam because I’d get tired of all the attention and vendors chasing me down, I do see myself vacationing here. The main advantage is that travel in Vietnam is much cheaper than in Thailand or Japan. Just be sure to watch out for taxi meter scams! And learning how to bargain at markets will also be helpful to you. I’ve learned through trial and error, plus a lot of negotiation (while sometimes buzzed).
Another strong point is people have a lot less in Vietnam but seem happier. Woman seem more liberated too. There’s a lot that you can learn by observing the life style of people here. In my next article, I will be writing about my experience staying in Phu Quoc Island. Please anticipate it, because Phu Quoc is my favorite part of Vietnam!
Korea will always hold a special place in my heart because it’s the first country I ever felt truly “lost” in. When I first visited Japan during my study abroad trip, I already had a basic grasp on the language and had the ability to ask for help and directions if needed. Other Asian countries I’ve been to like Hong Kong and Thailand attract a great amount of foreign business and tourism, so there’s always some English guidance even if you don’t speak the native tongue. Korea also attracts a number of foreigners, but it’s not really a place known for its beaches or resorts so outside of Seoul (and even within the city) there is limited English support.
Korean people are very educated and usually have a basic understanding of the English language, but those who do not go on to higher education usually don’t have much of a reason to study it (much like Japanese people). Knowing absolutely no Hangul before coming to Korea made me experience an initial language barrier for the first time in my life, so I had to learn to think quickly on my feet and also always have my translation app at hand. It was a bit frustrating at first and I regret not taking more time to learn basic Hangul, but not comprehending any of the language also made my trip a fun challenge while learning about a new culture. I am very fortunate that people here were extremely kind to me. An example: When I was too jetlagged to figure out how to get back the deposit on my subway card, a kind Korean man helped me work the machine so I could receive my change. After he suggested we exchange contact information in case I needed help. I sensed now ill will from his actions so I did so. I am happy that I can feel safe at all times in this country.
Getting back to the story, I have visited Korea a total of three times: Once during the new year of 2018 visiting Seoul and Busan, again during 2018 for Golden Week exploring Jeju Island, and once again in 2019 for eye surgery (I will talk more about my operation next year).
In this article I would like to talk about one of my favorite glitches in the human paradigm fashion/avant-garde galleries: Adererror. I stumbled upon this place while hunting for aesthetic things near Hongik University, and boy was I in paradise! From cassette tapes to “Dad fresh markets”–this place had it all!
Dad fresh market!
Dad fresh market?! you ask, wondering if they are selling actual paternal figures at this display. Fear not, because “Dad” actually stands for Day After Day which is popular designer soap brand sold on the first floor of this store. I am sure the English-speaking visitors get a kick out of this when they first see it (I sure did).
Here are more fantastic sights of the latest 2019 display:
The neon blue “THE BLUEST BLUE” sign immediately made me think of in the blue shirt. I opened a closet to find 3 TVs flickering with images of owls. One room was filled with a broken popcorn machine. Another room was completely upside down. Was that an iPhone glued to the bathroom door? And who put the plant in the bathtub!? All these sights made the Dad fresh market seem like a normality.
The 2018 display also raised some questions:
FLOWRS. IN. URINALS. SOAPINTOILET. Using tissue boxes as wallpaper? Plants climbing ladders. Mattresses chilling with speakers. More neon signs and pressed pink rocks. What is the true meaning of “Day After Day” anyway? Add all of these questions with my inability to comprehend Hangul, and you have complete sensory overload. The best part was that I was enjoying every second of this. Being in a foreign country without having any idea how to speak the language, and stumbling upon a place as unique as this–it was like a fantasy come true.
Clothing aside (which I was almost too memorized to look at, but I did do some browsing), Adererror is a masterpiece. And to think this was just the beginning of my wild adventures in Korea. TO BE CONTINUED…
Since I decided to cosplay a swimsuit version of Michiru Kaioh/Sailor Neptune for a photoshoot, I wanted the most suitable nails for this character. I looked at various nail catalogs online, but no design fit the one I had in mind so I decided to create my own. Fortunately, most nail salons in Tokyo are able to create original nail designs using stencils, hand-drawn art, studs, and various gradients of polish.
I booked an appointment at Nail Salon Glory through Hot Pepper, and these were the amazing results I got:
My nails were absolutely gorgeous! Since I have short nails, I requested the scalp nail course that will extend your tip to a custom length. The nail artist used a combination of beige and turquoise glitter polish to create a gradient that looks like an ocean. After painting a shiny coat over it, she added sea shells and pearl studs, as well as hand-drew the insignia on Neptune’s mirror that I requested. I was almost speechless when our session ended because I was so impressed!
Most fancy nail courses start at 10,000 yen ($93), but they are worth the price for the amount of detail and effort that is put in. There are various coupons that can be used to lower the price, like the ones featured on HotPepper.
Scalp nails last for typically 3 weeks and are perfect for every occasion. Not only did I use them for my photoshoot, but they also matched the color of the ocean when I was swimming in Thailand. I’m sure I’ll be back in the future once I think of more anime-based designs!
Traversing through the streets of Harajuku–one of Tokyo’s most iconic fashion districts famous for pastel, lolita, goth, and designer street wear clothing–one would not be surprised to see bright-colored styles in all sorts of unique forms. However, one piece of clothing in particular caught my eye. It was a bright pink sweater with a green dinosaur on it and felt strangely nostalgic:
Upon looking at it closer, the dinosaur had a very unique expression on its face. Its lips were parted in an extremely derpy way, and it looked liked it was trying to say something. Not “roar” like you would expect a dinosaur to say, but perhaps something less intimidating… like “rawr”. When I noticed this, I immediately thought back to the Rawr xD memes that plagued the internet in the early 2000s. And it got me thinking… Is Scene Kid Fashion Forever Iconic in Tokyo? Or does it just coincide with Harajuku fashion?
Similarly to how Harajuku fashion is influenced by music (especially Visual Kei), scene fashion was originally influenced by rock and other subgenres. Both styles feature brightly colorful attire that is sometimes paired with excessive hair clips, intricate makeup, big bows, and sometimes piercings as well. Just like scene lingo exists, Harajuku gyaru lingo exists too. When you compare pictures of the two fashions side by side, they are slightly different but fundamentally the same:
Although Harajuku fashion started in the 1980’s, the gyaru and lolita subcultures started from 99′ – 00′, which was right around the time when scene kid fashion was starting to form as well. Though it wasn’t until the late 2000s when the term “scene kid” was coined, a lot of people were wearing the style before then. Regardless of when exactly they were formed, both fashions express a statement against conforming with societal normsandare designed to express individuality.
Though both styles have received both praise and cringe-worthy reactions from the public, I find that their connections are quite interesting. Japanese fashion continuously uses inspiration from the west, and western countries often import and find Japanese fashion quite alluring. I don’t think I’ll ever be a scene kid or a Harajuku girl, but I can appreciate both fashions for the uniqueness (and weirdness). At the end of the day, I am extremely grateful to whatever influenced my derpy dinosaur sweater!