After a sublime day of scuba diving on the best beaches in Miyakojima and exploring the pumpkin limestone cave, I was about ready to wrap up my Okinawa trip and fly back to Tokyo. However, before my flight departed at 4pm that day, there was one more island I wanted to see early in the morning. Irabu Island is connected to the mainland of Miyakojima by the appropriately named Irabu Bridge and can be reached by car, bike, and even on foot! It is roughly 11km from the main resort strip of Miyakojima and is extremely rural but has some beautiful beaches, cafes, and resorts to see. I figured it would be the perfect final destination to end my trip and reflect for a bit before taking the 5 hour plane ride home.
I woke up early, rented a regular road bike from my hotel, and set off for Irabu Island! During my morning run I had the chance to see the sun rise and it looked absolutely stunning on Painagama Beach. The blue colors of the ocean that surrounded Irabu were also impressive as I crossed the bridge. I had flashbacks to the Grand Tethe’alla Bridge from Tales of Symphonia as I made my way to the other side. This almost didn’t feel real!
It took me about 50 mins to bike to the main beach of Irabu called “Day’s Beach” but the view was definitely worth it. It looked just like the beach in one of my favorite anime movies Non Non Biyori: Okinawa e Ikukoto ni Natta. Even though this was slightly different from the setting of the movie, it still had the same vibe:
Here are some more photos that I took of Day’s Beach. If I had more time I would have went swimming! I noticed that there were a lot of farms and plantations here. One of the highlights of biking was stopping to see all of the tropical plants on the way:
After walking along the beach and feeling refreshed, I decided to stop by a nearby restaurant called Blue Turtle. Here I tried their signature rum cocktail called the “Blue Turtle”, ate some fried sweet potato and octopus, and drank a dragon fruit smoothie for dessert. The food here was top notch and the view of the beach was even better. Despite not being able to see any turtles during my scuba trip the previous day, this feast sort of made up for it.
Finally feeling fulfilled that I accomplished everything on my itinerary, I went to unlock my bike and set off back off across the bridge. But that is when disaster struck—as I started riding back I noticed I had a flat tire despite not feeling it at all before. I’ve ridden around Tokyo with flat tires on my bike when I’ve been short on time, but having this happen on a rural island is less than ideal. I thought about biking the 11km back or even walking if I had to since I had enough time, but I instead decided to do the smart thing and stop at the nearest resort and ask for help. Fortunately the staff at Azure Villa were more than willing to help me!
Initially I thought it was just a flat tire (パンクしたタイヤ) but after inspection the staff confirmed the tube was damaged too. This is the danger of renting bikes on rural islands—you truly never know what you’re getting and sometimes weather conditions can hasten these damages. Fortunately the staff drove me 11km back to my resort for free (because I don’t think most Okinawan taxis could carry this bike) and were super empathetic. I offered to pay them the normal taxi fee but they refused me. I couldn’t have asked for more kindness than what they had showed me. Okinawan culture is truly amazing!
When we arrived back at my resort on the mainland, Hotel Locus, the staff there was also super kind to me, gave me my bike rental money back, and added 様 to my name which was the greatest honor. I was able to make my flight with time to spare and saw everything on my itinerary, but if this would have happened the first day it would have killed the vibe a bit. However, no adventure is complete without some obstacle, and we all handled this in the best way possible so I’m proud.
Thank you to everyone that has kept up with my Okinawa article series! I am so happy I was able to make this trip safely in between emergency states and have such a phenomenal time. In the future I will be writing a spin-off series of my previous trip to Okinawa in 2016 mentioning all of the heritage spots I visited. This weekend I will be going to Kyushu to have some more island adventures, but they will be more a lot more relaxed than this. Life is never calm for an adventurer but I am loving every second of this life!
Less than a week ago I just narrowly escaped the initial Golden Week travel rush that sparked Tokyo’s 3rd emergency state on my way to Naha City in Okinawa. This policy is currently in effect until May 11th urging residents to avoid non-essential travel, but I arrived in paradise just before it occurred! I was fortunately able to follow all of the corona prevention measures onboard my Jetstar flight from Narita Airport at 7:15 in the morning and felt extremely safe. The flight attendants were very attentive and spaced us out as much as possible. The airport limousine had almost no people riding it either so traveling before Golden Week is a power move that will save you not only money but a lot of hassle too.
I should mention that this is not my first trip to Okinawa either—this is actually my second one! The first time I traveled to Okinawa was in 2016 for my 23rd birthday in October. Honestly October has some of the best weather because it’s the dry season but is still warm enough to go swimming. Despite the first day I arrived in April this year where there was rain and heavy winds, the rest of the days I spent here were pleasant. While my last trip focused on engaging with Okinawan culture and sightseeing, this trip was focused on enjoying resorts and scuba diving in Miyakojima. I plan to start a separate article series for my previous Okinawa trip once I finish this one!
As I arrived at Naha Airport after my 3 hour flight, I was greeted by a sign that said “めんそーれ” which I learned means “welcome” in Okinawan dialect. This greeting went completely over my head on my first trip, but since watching the Non Non Biyori Okinawa movie, I totally get what it means now. Don’t be afraid to use it around the locals because they genuinely enjoy it when you try to speak their language.
To reach the bustling Kokusai Street of Naha where all the bars, restaurants, and action is, you can take a cheap monorail and reach it within 20 minutes. This is so convenient compared to traveling back from the Tokyo airports! The monorail does not go up the whole main island but you can take buses or choose to rent a car to get around. On this trip all I needed was the monorail to reach my Sanrio resort, so I was a happy yuru camper. Since it was raining this day I decided to hit all of the bars and cafes and drink some rosé. Here are some of the best places you can explore in Naha City:
Ti-Da Beach Parlor
Ti-da Beach Parlour is a new smoothie cafe that has some of the most aesthetic vibes on the island. Here you can order delicious dragon fruit smoothies and drink them under neon signs and creative interior decor. They also sell jewelry, soap, and various aromas here. It’s definitely an IG worthy spot because I saw a lot of Japanese girls taking pictures here when I entered. My smoothie was beyond amazing and the owner was extremely kind to me. “We love it!!!” is almost an understatement because the taste of this smoothie was heavenly. This place is also extremely close to Tida Beach which you should definitely check out if you have the time!
Arriving at Kokusai Street & Finding Noteworthy Souvenirs
After having arguably one of the best smoothies of my life, I decided to walk around Kokusai Street until it was time to check into my hotel. The charm of this street is its crazy souvenirs and cozy cafes and bars. You will find everything from bootleg Mario shirts to Habu Snake Liquor to sweet potato flavored curry and everything here is awesome. I found to Okinawa Kirby keychains in the second souvenir shop I entered and immediately bought them. If you know me then you know Kirby is one of my all time favorite characters, and these keychains were only 500 yen so they were a steal! The Pokemon Store in the nearby shopping mall is also worth checking out. It’s smaller than the Pokemon Centers around Japan, but has some custom tropical shirts plus the Okinawan Pikachu plushies that you can only buy here and each season they add new things. You can easily spend 2 hours on this street looking around but everything is accessible by foot.
Access: This street is best accessed by Makishi Station on the monorail.
Hotel Okinawa with Sanrio Characters
Here it is—the main highlight! When this place opened in 2019 the internet exploded with excitement and multiple people tagged me in articles about the Hotel Okinawa with Sanrio Characters located near Kokusai Street so I figured I had to go for the experience. The cheapest rooms here are priced around 7800 ~ 10000 yen per night which is a bit expensive compared to other hotel rooms that are the same size, but who could say no the undeniably cute atmosphere? All 66 rooms here have their own custom design so staying here is definitely worth the price if you are a fan of these characters. After some careful thinking, I chose the My Melody double bed room because it had the most vibrant pink design.
Without further ado, here is video tour of my hotel room:
First of all, I gotta say I deeply appreciated the Sanrio slipper they had laid out for me. I also loved the backdrop of My Melody enjoying the beach. It was so much fun setting up my tripod while drinking wine and taking photos here. I am definitely living the bachelorette lifestyle to the fullest. The room also came with free Sanrio stickers, coasters, and little bags to carry you amenities in. The best part is your room key is made into a membership card with your name on it that you can use again in the future. I loved the VIP status I got here not to mention the huge montage of Sanrio plushies in the lobby. This is definitely the most kawaii hotel on the island and I am completely in love with it.
The only con of the room was that it did not have a bath tub (only a simple shower), but you could fortunately reserve a huge tub on the 2nd floor for free and that is exactly what I did. I felt rejuvenated and relaxed even though the winds were quite strong outside that I broke 2 umbrellas. After the weather calmed down, I decided to walk around town and get some food and drinks!
My Recommended Food Choices
Naha is full of delicious food stands, restaurants, and ice cream stores, but this time I decided to try some of the new vegan restaurants that were added to the island. I am really happy they have added so many healthy options so I can enjoy this food guilt-free!
Vegan Taco Rice at mana
Natural food and snack mana just happened to be the closest vegan restaurant to my hotel so it was the first place that I went to eat. I was delighted to see that they had vegan taco rice on their menu which is a staple food of Okinawa. The rice was full grain and I appreciated the star fruit they added on top! The soy meat was very light on my stomach and overall gave me just the energy I needed to go exploring around the city. I highly recommend this place if you want some amazing taco rice!
Since bars usually close around 8pm due to the pandemic, I called a few on Kokusai Street that struck my interest and was ecstatic to find that the fancy cocktail place Bar Owl was open! I was the only person at the bar but that was actually a good thing because it gave me the chance to have a wonderful conversation with the owner. He asked me if I was a model since I was lowkey cosplaying Tifa that night, and I laughed and told him I’m more of just a general cosplayer! He then proceeded to inform me of various cosplay events in Okinawa, the most famous being MCCS, which I really may consider going to in the future. Who needs Colossalcon when you can cosplay on an island!?
Anyway, onto the drinks! I asked him to make me something cute and sweet with strawberry, so the first cocktail I got was mostly strawberry and high quality vodka. It was extremely easy to drink so I didn’t realize how strong it was! Not wanting to leave without trying another, I asked if I could have one more and to surprise me. The drink I got was so amazing it was almost beyond my comprehension. It was shaped like the Hungry Hungry Caterpillar and made out of the Okinawan superfood goya, which tastes bitter but when paired with fig it creates the perfect blend of tastes that make it out of this world. The base of the cocktail was kiwi and I was in love with its aesthetic design. I thanked the bartender kindly and vowed to come back again. These fancy cocktails are about 2500 but 100% completely worth it. These are some of the best cocktails on the island for sure!
After drinking the almighty potions, I immediately passed out in my Sanrio Hotel but this was a day I would never forget. Okinawa is just so full of adventure that you really can’t go wrong here. Everyone can find something that they appreciate and enjoy here.
Please look forward to my next article covering my 2nd day in this lovely series and thank you for supporting my journey!
As I was doing some last minute Christmas shopping with my best friend in Shibuya, we accidentally stumbled upon the Kingdom Hearts Melody of Memory Cafe on the 2nd floor of Shibuya Loft. I had heard about the new Kingdom Hearts rhythm game that had recently been released, but didn’t realize that there was a new cafe for for it. Additionally, I later read online that the story was told from Kairi’s point of view and featured a new scene at the end that set things up for the next game in the series. Though at first I thought the game sounded like a more theatrical Theatrhythm with KH characters, as someone who has played the series from adolescence and still loved the music I was sold. I bought the game for Switch and made a reservation for the cafe online for the following Monday evening with my friend.
The Kingdom Hearts Cafe in Shibuya Loft is running from December 11th, 2020 – January 11th, 2020, but the featured menu at the Square Enix cafes in Tokyo and Osaka are running until March 12th, 2021. To make a reservation, please see the Cafe Homepage (I highly recommend making a reservation).
The entrance to the Shibuya Loft KH Cafe is adorable and features artwork of the 4 teams and gameplay trailers on several large monitors. To prevent spread of the corona virus, you are asked to sanitize your hands and write down your order at the entrance as well as wear as mask until you are seated. We booked the final slot at 19:20 and were lucky because we almost had the cafe completely to ourselves!
The menu from this cafe has some magical entrees. We ordered Kairi’s Memories of Cream Stew that came with rice in the shape of a paopu fruit and Mickey’s Tuna Sandwich with his little emblem stamped on the bread. There were also rice dishes that bared a resemblance to the Agrabah and Neverland stages, but we decided to focus on the themed character dishes this time. We ordered the Friendship Strawberry Tea that came with a lot of fruit and a plastic cutout of Mickey, Donald, and Goofy and made a toast. Kingdom Hearts food is not only elaborate but also very good! Please see the full menu on the Cafe Homepage.
There are a lot of neat souvenirs available for purchase here, but some of these things were already previously available for purchase in the Square Enix shop. I would mainly recommend coming here to collect the coasters as they will only be available for the duration of the cafe. And most importantly; enjoy the music! All of the remixed songs in the new game sound really amazing!
My only complaint with this cafe is that they didn’t have a large variety of desserts like previous Square Enix Cafe collaborations. They had seasalt ice cream popsicles which are iconic to the series, but I really wished they had a cute music note parfait that I could order too!
For previous reference, here was the seasalt ice cream I had during the KHIII event at Artnia:
The little star-shaped sprinkles really added to the ambience and it was cool to be served ice cream on a mini platter. Definitely high-class service here.
I also ate Cloud’s sword during the FF7R event. Hilarious how this parfait is banana-flavored, of all things:
Though a lot of fans have mixed feelings about the direction that Nomura is taking the KH and FF7R series, both have been a huge part of my life since childhood and I look forward to going to more events for them now that I live in Japan. I am super excited for the next installment in the World Ends with You and hope to go to that cafe too.
Over the recent three-day holiday known as “Labor Thanksgiving Day” in Japan, I decided to venture to Kyoto once more in hopes of capturing the beauty of the red maple leaves on camera. The previous weekend I traveled to Ginzan Onsen and had a lovely experience there, but unfortunately since it is located in the north of Honshu most of the leaves from the red maples had already fallen. Since Kyoto is more to the south, I figured that mid-November would be the ideal time to visit. Fortunately I was able to do a ton of photography with both my new iPhone 12 Pro’s camera and my trusty GoPro Hero too. I also managed to eat at a lot of cute cafes and meet up with some old friends while experiencing the true Autumn essence of Japan. Yet another great adventure for the archive!
Nanzenji Architectural Temple
I departed from Tokyo immediately after my job on Friday via the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to avoid the holiday rush. After spending a quiet night at a guesthouse near Nijo Castle (read further below), I made my way to Nanzenji Temple, one of the most famous Zen temples in Japan that practices Buddhism. I’ve been to numerous temples and shrines in Kyoto already, but what drew me to Nanzenji was its aesthetic brick aqueduct that is frequently used as a photoshoot location for visitors wearing kimonos and weddings. During the Meiji Period it was actually used as part of a canal system from Kyoto to Lake Biwa in Shiga. Now its colors and architecture have weathered and faded making it look like a beautiful backdrop with the surrounding forest looming behind it.
I spent about an hour here doing self-portrait photography then wandered through the large complex of temples and gardens that are around here. I highly recommend visiting Tenjuan Temple because it has both a rock garden and a pond garden that make it look lovely in Autumn. I finally got to see the bright red maple leaves that I was dying to see here! The entrance fee is only 300 yen.
If you are interested in additional sightseeing, Kinkakuji and the Philosopher’s Path are really close to Nanzenji. But after all of this walking, I was hungry so I decided to grab some dessert!
Kotoba no Haoto
Since my next destination was located in the mountains north of central Kyoto, I decided to stop at a cozy bookshop that also serves adorable parfaits called Kotoba no Haoto. They have quite the impressive collection of books from everything from Kyoto guidebooks to cat-themed novels and are very welcoming to guests. I decided to order the seasonal parfait which consisted of a cat crafted out of vanilla ice cream and chocolate shavings and fresh fruit. It tasted even better than what I had imagined and was completely refreshing. I liked this cafe because I didn’t feel rushed here and could peacefully enjoy my dessert. After feeling fulfilled, I made my way to Mt. Hiei with renewed energy.
Originally I passed by the base of Mt. Hiei while I was on my way to the famed Rurikoin Temple. This temple is situated in a forest and has a pool of water inside that perfectly reflects the surface of its surroundings. The best time to go is in Autumn when the red maple leaves match the same red color of the interior of the temple. However, unbeknown to me entrance required prior online reservation from the months of October to December and I was not able to enter. Since I had traveled an hour by bus to get here, I decided that I would ride the cable car up Mt. Hiei instead and do some photography in the mountains. Fortunately it was only a 5 minute walk from the queue to Rurikoin so I did not lose much time. This is actually the longest cable car in Japan so I’m happy I went for the experience!
Mt. Hiei actually has both a cable car and a ropeway. To ride both roundtrip it costs around 1800 yen which is a bit expensive but the view is overall worth it. At the top you can see Garden Museum Hiei and also hike to see some temples in the mountains. I loved this museum because it had a lot of beautiful oil paintings that were carefully placed around groups of wild flowers and bushes. There was also a pond and you could see all of the mountains surrounding Kyoto and Shiga. The natural lighting and cool mountain air really added to the experience. If you come this far out it’s definitely worth the ascent because it gives you an entirely new view of Kyoto.
I descended around 4pm which was just in time to catch the golden hour when the sun shines through the trees and gradually begins to set. The path around the base of Mt. Hiei started to gleam with the flicker of lanterns and I felt as if I had been transported to a beautiful red world. Luckily I caught it all on camera. I loved how the Eizan Railway train I took back to the city center was marked with a red leaf too. This entire day went better than how I had originally envisioned it despite the minor setback.
Celebrations at L’Escamoteur
After experiencing the golden hour and feeling satisfied with the photos I had taken for the day, it was finally time for celebration! Coincidently one of my friends from Yamanashi was also in Kyoto and invited me to come to L’escamoteur with her. This bar is near Kawaramachi and is named after the French word for “magician” or “illusionist”. As the name implies the bartenders can whip up some pretty mysterious cocktails here. My friend and I have the same taste so we both ordered chocolate cocktails with brandy first. After kicking back the first round, we next ordered matching Kyoto-themed matcha cocktails that kind of look like おっぱい when placed side by side. We laughed at that and shared stories of our experiences in Kyoto. She also tried to go to Rurikoin Temple and could not get in without a reservation. Small world! We vowed to both see it next year during Autumn.
This bar definitely had the perfect atmosphere for catching up with old friends and I am happy I went here. Next time I would like to try a cocktail with an egg and this mysterious concoction I happened to capture on camera:
Due to the reduced prices of the hotels that are participating in the Go To Travel Campaign, I was able to stay at a backpackers guesthouse called Hostel Mundo for less than 1000 yen for 2 nights. I liked this guesthouse because it was located in a quiet area away from the crowds, but still had easy access to Kawaramachi and Kyoto buses. The rooms had cozy futons and the interior decor made me feel like I was in Thailand, but Hostel Mundo simulates the feeling of staying at a traditional Japanese house. Bike rental is also available and there are many hot springs nearby. Only a few other woman were staying here so I was able to sleep peacefully each night and wake up early for my next adventure. I would recommend this place to most people as it is very affordable and clean.
Thank you for reading Part 1 of my Autumn Adventures in Kyoto! Part 2 is already being drafted so please look forward to reading more from me soon~
A trip to Nagoya is never complete without trying all of the delicious food available. This aesthetic food adventure takes us to many dessert cafes and restaurants that have just re-opened after the emergency state ended. We also drank at Meijo Park near Nagoya Castle which is one of the chillest spots I’ve found in this city with awesome scenery. All of the places I visited this weekend have a lovely atmosphere and I can’t recommend them enough!
I’ll be expanding this list as I find more places, but feel free to suggest any you recommend in the comments! Please see Vol. 1 & Vol. 2 for reference.
When I first saw the pink refrigerator door that serves as the entrance to this cafe, I was already enamored by its aesthetic. Amelia Cafe, located on the 3rd floor of the PARCO building in Sakae, has a large range of fulfilling dishes and beautiful desserts. I ordered the vegetable and seafood salad while my boyfriend ordered the massive curry that had a volcano of cheese fondue in it. I had never seen such a wild combination but it tasted amazing!! We also ordered the strawberry and Orea milk bottles topped with whipped cream and chocolate to go along with our orders. At that point we were already feeling full, but we couldn’t leave without defeating the final boss: The Rainbow Cake Pudding Parfait. It surprisingly had a light texture so we finished it off in now time. Hungry protagonist unite! Next time I come here, I would really like to try the waffles and tiramisu coffee drinks. The portions are huge but the food is actually quite cheap. This is a good place to eat with groups and also the ideal date spot. I’m really lucky that my boyfriend found this place!
Around the time that Animal Crossing for Switch was released, these guys popped up in my recommended desserts feed on Instagram. Though I don’t play the game because I value my free time, who could pass up the chance to try tanuki cupcakes!? Holland is western-themed desserts and confectionery shop near Kanayama Station in Nagoya. They sell individual sweets and customized cakes for a pretty affordable price. The tanuki cupcakes come in strawberry and chocolate flavors. They had both a wafer and cake-like texture underneath the frosting. Honestly they hit the spot after traveling over 2 hours here from Tokyo. I am excited to see what other fun cupcakes they design in the future!
Cafe One in central Sakae delivers breakfast of the champions with it’s signature nekopan. Or should I say breakfast of the champio-nyans? Whatever you want to call it, it’s mouthwatering and delicious. I had ice cream milk coffee that was decorated to look like a cat with a mustache and a cookie tail on the side. I instantly felt energized after consuming all that ice cream and sugar. My boyfriend ordered neko melonpan that had no face but was thicc and tasted amazing. I ordered the nekopan with almond eyes that was covered in peanut butter and marshmallow toppings with chocolate whiskers. Honestly is was a bit overwhelming but was also some of the best bread I had ever tasted. There are many flavors of nekopan available here so I’d love to try more in the future!
Dean & Deluca Deli
After consuming all of that sugar, we walked around for a while and decided we should eat something healthy for lunch. Not too far from Cafe One is the Dean & Deluca Deli where you can order sandwiches and fresh salad for a healthy meal. They offer juices, desserts, and takeout options here as well. I decided to get the vegetable salad with avocado, grilled pumpkin, potato, lettuce, quinoa, and carrots. It was a good balance to what I ate for breakfast and gave me a lot of energy for the rest of the day. My boyfriend had the chicken sandwich and said it had his stamp of approval too. This place is win-win for both vegetarians and people who like meat because it has a number of options.
Poket is a Hawaiin restaurant that just moved to the bottom floor of ASTIR Hotel in Sakae. They are relatively new but have a really vibrant and welcoming atmosphere. Poke Bowls are the specialty here which you can order with salad or rice as your base. I customized my bowl to include sauteed octopus and vegetables. For dessert, I decided to try their one of a kind “banana soft” which is vanilla ice cream that is carefully placed inside of a fresh banana. The result is extremely photogenic and Instagrammable. Bananas sure have evolved a lot! The drink menu has Japanese drinks, Hawaiin beers, and pineapple sours. I definitely felt like we were in a tropical place even though we are currently in the middle of the rainy season in Japan. I would definitely come back here again to try more variety of of Poke and see what other crazy desserts they come up with!
For once I wasn’t the one that found this restaurant—full credit goes to my boyfriend for taking us here. 杏ZU specializes in vegan Chinese food but has a non-vegan menu too. I decided to ordered the vegetables boiled with yuba tofu (vegan option). I also tried some Chinese wine on the rocks. It was bitter but tasted just right paired with the food. My boyfriend got a chicken dish that was served in a delicious rice cracker. What makes this place stand out from other Chinese restaurants is the seasoning they use in their cooking. I tasted a hint of lemon in mine and it was very healthy because they didn’t use any butter in it. I would really like to come back here and try some shrimp dishes in the future. This place will be on my watch list.
This mysterious restaurant popped up in my Instagram feed one day and got me thinking… just what is an Icelandic Market doing in Nagoya!? I looked at their menu and decided I would try their bread bowl with shrimp soup. The other choices were tomato curry and Nagoya spice because that’s totally what people eat in Iceland. Though not completely authentic, this was the best bread bowl that I’ve ever had in Japan! My boyfriend had a hot dog wrapped in bacon which he said was pretty good. This restaurant is about 40 mins from Nagoya Station and is quite small, but it’s worth checking out if you’re looking for something different. I definitely enjoyed the theme.
Situated next to Nagoya Castle, Meijo Park is one of the ideal places to drink or have a picnic. Unlike other parks and gardens in Nagoya, it doesn’t have an entrance fee and is open 24 hours. It feels like something out of an RPG because it has a giant windmill that looks like it holds secrets, a sundial that could possibly turn back time, and comically huge sunflowers everywhere. Not to mention the adorable stray cats. You could definitely use this place in a game map. Anyway, my boyfriend and I spent 2 hours drinking here before Final Fantasy VII trivia night at Critical Hit. We also tried the new Blue Hawaii donut at Lyrical Coffee Donut which was better than their matcha series. I later came back here to watch the sunset and see the moon before I left for Tokyo. This place has a wonderful aesthetic because all of the trees block the city lights.
That’s all the aesthetic food finds for this week. I’ll have more to write about when I visit Nagoya again later this month! Thank you for reading.
During Golden Week of 2018 I decided to venture to Korea for the 2nd time and explore its most famous beach resort island: Jeju. This island is extremely unique because not only does it have the best beaches in Korea, but it also has the Nexon Computer Museum with the world’s longest running MMO. There’s also the tallest mountain in Korea (Mt. Hallasan), a folk village with traditional houses, and a fairly famous sex museum. As you can see, Jeju has something for everybody because there is a huge diversity of attractions to see. A lot of people that live close to Korea come here to spend their honeymoons or school vacations, but there are many backpackers like me who travel here too. In this article series I will be detailing my 5 day stay in Jeju in hopes that other people will decide to come in the future.
Traveling to Jeju
The best way to travel to Jeju is to take a direct flight from Seoul. Jeju Air has the cheapest flights that range from $30 – $50 USD roundtrip. The flight only takes about an hour. Jeju is comparable in Okinawa in Japan, but is much smaller and doesn’t have as many islands you can travel to. However, traveling here is much cheaper than most islands in Japan and it has a different vibe. One of the best islands you can visit in Jeju is called Udo which is the very first place I went.
Udo Island Day Trip
Udo Island was my first destination once I reached Jeju Airport. Fortunately you don’t need to fly here and can instead take a relaxing 15 minute ferry. The reason I wanted to go to Udo is because it is the perfect cycling destination. The island was named for its somewhat rectangular shape that looks like cow lying down. I also chuckled because the name reminded me of U-DO in Xenosaga. You can see most of the attractions on Udo within 3 – 4 hours via electric bike. E-bikes can be rented for around $10 per day and are extremely worth it. This was my very first time riding an e-bike, but fortunately it wasn’t scary! You can see the ocean from any point in Udo making it a wonderful spot for photography. Everyone rides slow so they can stop to take pictures.
Since I was starving, I stopped at a local seafood restaurant near the bike rental shop. I couldn’t speak much Hangul but I was able to place an order. They whipped me up some spicy crab and muscle stew which tasted amazing. For dessert, I decided to try the peanut ice cream that Udo is famous for. They placed two adorable teddy bear crackers on it too. The salty and sweet combination makes it worthy of all the praise that it gets. You can find this food literally all over the island and it’s much cheaper than food in Seoul.
Finally feeling full, I decided to make my way down to the beaches. Gwakji Beach and Hamdeok Beach were my two personal favorites. Both can be reached via e-bike in less than 30 minutes and are found on the north side. Exploring these beaches can take up to an hour. I came here in late April so it was a bit cold to swim but the weather was near perfect. Korea’s weather is similar to Japan’s but is slightly more mild.
Besides the swimming and biking, there are many other exciting things to do on Udo. You can go horseback riding for a short time if you talk to someone near the stables. If you like art, most of the buildings are painted in bright colors and there are murals all over the island. The food here never disappoints. The octopus-shaped bread I tried was filled with cheese and absolutely amazing. Just the atmosphere of being on a small beach island is awesome too. I enjoyed walking inside the the giant shells that were near the pier and also petting the store owner’s dogs. Everyone here is extremely friendly so you don’t have to worry about the language barrier.
On my way back to return my e-bike, I stumbled upon one of the best DJ booth turned ice cream shop ever. The chef was spinning some fresh island beats as he was whipping up ice cream. This was an extremely rare vibe that I was not expecting:
The store Udo Prince Story (우도왕자이야기) has both phenomenal food and music. If you come all the way out here, be sure not to miss out. This was the best instant dance party I ran into here and was the perfect way to end my day trip.
After an exciting first day in Udo, I rode the ferry back to the main island where my accommodation “GreenDay” was. There are a few hotels on Udo, but there is much more selection and nightlife on the main island of Jeju.
I chose GreenDay because I thought the name was hilarious and the dorms are only $15 per night. I couldn’t pass up staying in this colorful little house:
GreenDay Address: 251-9 Samdoi-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
I took a cheap taxi to Seongsan Port, then a 15 minute ferry to reach the island. The ferry ticket is only $10 one way. Please see the Udo Ferry Time Table for reference.
In my next article, I will be talking about some of the quirky museums that I explored. Please stay tuned for more!
After two awe-inspiring hikes through the forest that inspired Princess Mononoke and to Japan’s oldest tree, I decided to spend my final day in Yakushima relaxing at beaches and hot springs. Though I went on this trip nearly three years ago, I still remember how breathtaking it was to this day. This island undoubtedly has some of the best nature in Japan because it’s so remote from civilization. This is the perfect place to reflect on life and also do meditation. Please see Part 1 of my adventures in Yakushima for reference.
Day 3: Beach and Hotspring Adventures
Since I didn’t rent a car and was backpacking my way around, I decided to book a private tour through Yes Yakushima so I could see more of the island. The main advantage of doing this is you’ll have an experienced guide to show you around and they can cater the tour to fit your interests. I chose the Island Tour since I had already had my fill of hiking, but there are many other options available. What’s amazing is their guides can take you almost anywhere on the island; even to the most difficult mountains that not many people have climbed. Solo tours start at 27000 yen per person, but the price is worth it for what you get to see. The money you spend also goes to environmental maintenance.
Distilleries, Beaches, Crabs & Hotsprings
My guide Brian was also from the US, but he married a Japanese native on Yakushima and hiked there for years so his knowledge of the island was vast. My tour started off with a bang when we visited a Yaksuhima sake distillery and I knocked back a few samples. Sweet potatoes are very famous here so some breweries use them as a base for sake. We also drove past some mini farms where you could insert coins into a post box and take vegetables. The stores are completely unmanned so it shows there is a high level of trust between people on this island.
After eating a vegetarian bento by the beach, we drove to Hirauchi Sea Spa where you can go swimming and also wade in the tidal hot springs. The best time to visit is during low tide which usually your tour guide can predict. You can come here during high tide too, but the hot springs will be too deep to enter. I spent a good 2 hours here swimming and wading in the hot springs. The hot springs are unisex so you can choose to wear your swimsuit or jump in naked (I wore my swimsuit since I was on a tour).
While I was walking on the beach, I saw some amazing sea crabs chilling in the rocks:
Here’s an extremely old video I took of them. Their eyes are over-sized and adorable:
I will never forget how vibrantly blue the water was here. Out of everywhere in Japan, Iwami and islands in Kyushu like Yakushima have the best beaches. I also saw Yakushima-todai Lighthouse which is painted white and looks like a small chapel.
After having my fill of swimming, we decided to drive to some waterfalls next. The following waterfall is the most beautiful waterfall that I’ve seen in Japan:
We arrived at the perfect time of day because I got to see a rainbow reflected in the water of Ohko Waterfall!! This was such an amazing sight to behold! Plus there were hardly any other people around so you could only hear the splash of the water. I sat on the rocks and mediated for a few minutes as cool water droplets splashed my back. As I was meditating, a piece of bark from a Yaku Cedar tree fell from the cliff and drifted towards me. Brian carefully picked it up from the water and held onto it. He informed me that under no circumstances are people of the island allowed to strip bark from trees, but if the bark is removed by natural causes then people are allowed to take it. Since he said he was skilled in instruments, farming, and other outdoor activities, I figured he would think of the perfect use for it. He let me hold it and see it up close which was very special to see. It really is as if the gods were smiling upon us here.
Though there were no rainbows here, this was still an amazing waterfall to see. While Ohko is best viewed from sea level, Senpiro is best viewed from the mountains. The granite valleys here were quite the sight. Hiking up to the level where you can see them only takes a few minutes and is way easier than the hike to Jomonsugi. I am continually impressed by the harmony of land and water you can see on Yakushima!
Gajumaru Banyan Tree
After our waterfall treks, we drove to a mysterious forest in Nakama Village. At first glance, it looked similar to the Shiratani Unsuikyo which I explored the other day. However, Brian informed me that this is home of the Gajumaru Banyan Tree—a magical tree that grows by dropping down roots from its limbs into the ground! The roots can also sprout onto existing trees which give this forest its twisted shape. Yakushima is unique because a lot of the island is still uninhabited and these trees can grow wild. Perhaps one day the Gajumaru Banyan Tree limbs will engulf the entire island. No one knows for sure, but it sure was fun to ponder about what could happen in the future.
At this point the journey was gradually unwinding. I felt completely satisfied with what I had seen in the three days that I spent here. On our way back to Miyanoura Pier where I planned to sail back to Kagoshima, we passed by some wild monkeys and a tree that resembles Cthulhu. The more time you spend here, the more aesthetic things you’ll start to notice:
Though this may sound a bit hypocritical, any pictures you see of Yakushima online don’t do it justice. The island is extremely vast and beautiful and the only way to truly see this is to embark on the long journey and see it for yourself. That being said, my trip here was absolutely perfect minus not packing enough food during my hikes. The first two days I spent almost entirely by myself hiking and seeing Japan’s oldest tree. This was great because it gave me the chance to create my own personal connection with the island. I didn’t feel lonely because I was on a journey. The last day I reflected with an experienced guide and spent a lot of time relaxing. I realized from talking to him there is still so much of Yakushima that is unexplored. Was three days enough for what I wanted to see? Definitely. Would I want to come back in the future and see more? Also yes! 3-5 days is what I would recommend to most people. Be sure to respect nature and to also treasure your time here.
If you’ve ever looked up day trips from Tokyo on the internet, Hakone will be one of the most prominent results. With it being the real-life location of Tokyo-3 from Evangelion and having many hotsprings, temples, and a great view of Mt. Fuji, that status is well-deserved. It’s also home to one of my favorite museums in Japan which has sculptures that resemble vaporwave visuals called the Hakone Open Air Museum. You should also try swimming in the famous red wine onsen at Yunessan to smooth your skin. Wherever you go you’re bound to discover something interesting here because the nature is vast.
I’ve been to Hakone five times by myself and also with friends so I’ve seen all its major attractions. Here are some of the coolest things that I’ve found:
Eva-Ya: The Evangelion Goods Store
As you exit the station and begin your wonderful journey here, one of the first things you’ll come across is Eva-ya; Hakone’s own original Evangelion Store. Here you will find a number of goods from the anime including water bottles based off the characters’ designs, food with the NERV logo on it, and a life-sized Rei Ayanami. Asuka fans don’t fret because she has plenty of merchandise too! One of my best purchases here was Misato’s cross-shaped necklace (not pictured). I also enjoyed the Unit 01-colored ice cream. Of course you can visit the official Evangelion stores in Tokyo too, but this is the one located where the anime takes places and has slightly different merchandise.
Owakudani is Hakone’s volcanic crater that has sulfur vents and hotsprings making it a beautiful mountain getaway. The sulfide causes the rocks to gain their lovely red hue. In order to reach Owakudani, you must take a cable car ride from Hakone Ropeway. There are black eggs sold here that are said to increase your lifespan. I bought a four-pack of them and thought they were very delicious! Only time will tell if their effect is really long-lasting. Unfortunately due to the danger of the volcanic gas some of the hiking trails have been roped off here, but watching the plumes of smoke form from the main viewpoint is an amazing sight. This crater is definitely worth seeing!
Cable Car Fee: See discounts on the Hakone website (I recommend getting the one with the pirate ship fee included too).
Yunessan is my favorite onsen in all of Hakone because of its famous red wine onsen you can bathe in among many other unique hotsprings and pools. This is a mixed-gender hotspring so swimsuits are required in most areas unless you rent a private onsen or pay to enter the gender-segregated bath called Mori no Yu. The plus side is that you can enjoy Yunessan with all of your friends! Last time I went they had coffee, sake, and pearl-water baths too. Some of the baths rotate while others are permanent additions. The outdoor area has water slides, a mystical cave that you can explore, and various hot springs positioned so you can get a clear view of the mountains. This is always the most relaxing part of my trip. During certain times they serve free glasses of red wine too so be sure not to miss out!
Entrance Fee: 2,900 (a bit expensive, but worth it for the variety here)
I’ve already mentioned that the Hakone Open Air Museum is by far my favorite museum here (see my article The Top 3 Most Innovative Art & Technology Museums for more information), but I also want to point out beautiful Hakone Venetian Glass Museum. This forest of glass has beautiful Venetian-inspired designs and adornments like nowhere else I’ve ever seen. Outside you can find trees and a bridge intricately decorated with glass ornaments as well as a miniature pond. Inside there are many hand-crafted glass sculptures and jewels as well. I was very impressed with the aesthetic here:
The Okada Art Museum is also worth checking out. Though I don’t have any recent pictures, they have many beautiful sculptures in the mountains and footbaths you can use too. There are some traditional Japanese handcrafts and artifacts displayed too.
Entrance Fees: Varies on the museum, but I would research beforehand and budget 3000 – 5000 yen depending on what you want to see. Keep in mind these are some of the best museums outside of Tokyo and have that awesome mountain view!
Hakone Shrine & Pirate Ship Tours at Lake Ashi
A trip to Hakone isn’t complete without seeing Lake Ashi and the famous Hakone Shrine along the shores. I first saw it in the winter when snow was on the ground, but the summer is the ideal time to go if you want to experience the lake. My friend and I decided to buy the tickets to ride the pirate ship and drank a bottle of Captain Morgan on it in true spirit. The ship was very spacious and we could feel the gentle breeze of the lake while staring at the view of Mt. Fuji in the distance. It was exhilarating—an experience like nowhere else in Japan! I think the only other place where you can ride a pirate ship quite like this is at Tokyo Disney, but you don’t have the awesome mountain backdrop that you do here.
Cable Car Fee: See discounts on the Hakone website (I recommend getting the one with the cable car fee included too).
From Shinjuku Station, you can take the Romancecar Express to reach Hakone-Yumoto Station in 1.5 hours for 2300 yen.
Once reaching the station, all of the places I listed can be reached via bus within an hour, but I would allow yourself 6-8 hours here at least. It took multiple trips in both the summer and the winter for me to see everything here, but you could probably see these things in approximately 2 days.
If you decide to stay here overnight, Hakone Japan has some good choices. I plan to stay at a ryokan in the future and will write about my experience.
Welcome to Naoshima—Japan’s obscure avant-garde island full of art museums, beaches, and outdoor sculptures. Since I am a lover of all things aesthetic, I couldn’t pass up the chance to go here while I was traveling through Okayama. This island is very small but has a lot to see. It’s well-known among art enthusiasts and travelers that like to go off the beaten path. The most iconic piece of art you’ll find is the giant yellow pumpkin at the pier designed by Yayoi Kusama, but there’s an artistic sense all around here. Even if you’re not a huge fan of art, it’s really fun to go cycling and swimming here because it’s quite secluded from the rest of Japan. This island is actually part of Shikoku though you can access it from Honshu too. I’ll be detailing my full experience in this article!
Getting around Naoshima
From the net cafe I was staying overnight at (Jiyuu Kuukan), I walked to Okayama Station and rode the Seto-Ohashi Line to Chayamachi Station, then took the Uno Line to Uno Station for 50 mins total. From Uno Station, I walked to the nearby port and rode a ferry for 30 mins to Naoshima island. These ferries are frequent and leave almost every hour (see time table here). It was a very fun ride and the weather was perfect too!
I rented a bike for 500 yen/day because cycling is the best way to see all of Naoshima. The whole island takes about 2.5 hours total to cycle around and is pretty easy to navigate because it’s circular. However, it’s easy to spend a whole day here because there are so many museums to see. There are many hostels and resorts you can stay overnight at too. I didn’t stay overnight here, but I really want to next time!
I started my trip by riding my bike to Gotanji Bathing Beach where the giant yellow pumpkin is. I spent around an hour here swimming and seeing all of the Picasso-esque statues that line the beach area. I met a mix of both Japanese and international travelers who were very friendly. There was a giant raft in the middle of the swimming area where I actually took a nap on! That’s how relaxing it is here~
After feeling refreshed from the ocean, I decided to make my way around to the major museums. Some are free to enter but others have admission fees. I would research them beforehand budget around 3000 – 6000 yen depending on what you want to see.
Exploring the Museums
The main museums worth seeing on the island are:
Benesse House – Museum by the beach with indoor and outdoor exhibits. They combine their hotel with the “coexistence of nature, art and architecture” and are responsible for many projects on the island.
Chichu Art Museum – An ambient museum built mostly underground. The natural light plays a huge role in seeing the artwork here.
Lee Ufan Museum – A contemporary art museum consisting of stones and two-dimensional paintings. His art has a tranquil feeling when paired with the seaside viewpoint.
Ando Museum – A traditional wooden house that uses creative architecture to contrast light and shadow and the past from the present.
Teshima Art Museum – This is a famous art museum located on the nearby Teshima Island that resembles a water droplet and is perfect for photography.
Art House Projects – A series of small houses with a variety of different art from different artists. For a full list, please see the Benesse Art Project Site.
*Please note that photography is not allowed at all museums, but is okay outside most places.
One of the most interesting things I saw was the light-up ‘Live & Die’ piece at Benesse House (pictured in the very top photos). The words on the boards all have different associations with life and death. While the lights faded, a Japanese man walked up and spread his arms out, as if embracing the words it had projected. It was one of the coolest reactions I have ever witnessed at an art museum in my life. I also saw a graveyard outside of the Lee Ufan museum. Its juxtaposition with the art made me think more on the concept of life and death. I did a lot of reflecting this day and it was very good for my mental heath. That’s why I’m planning to come back here in the summer again and see all the spots that I missed!
Food & Drinks
There are restaurants, bakeries, and cafes all over the island so you can easily find a place that catches your interest. I had cold soba noodles and matcha bread with anko for lunch at a place called Aisunao. It was all homemade food and tasted amazing! When I got back to Okayama, I drank a drink that smiled back at a Tiki Bar. You seriously can find great selection here wherever you look!
Bathing in a Artsy Bath
Before I took the ferry back, I decided to bathe at the artsy bath called I♥湯 (I love you). The outside of the bath house has an aesthetic mosaic design that looks like no other bath house in Japan. The indoor area has equally beautiful architecture. It was a great way to end the trip. The entrance fee is only 660 yen.
Exploring other Islands
One regret I have is that I didn’t look into exploring the two smaller art islands you can access from Naoshima: Inujima & Teshima. Both islands can be reached from Naoshima in less than 20 mins. Benesse has a nice two-day itinerary where you can see all the major works of the three islands. I will be going back hopefully later this year to see the small things that I missed!
I mentioned the route that I took above, but there are multiple ways to get to Naoshima. Please see the Benesse site for more information.
Right before Japan declared its widespread emergency state in response to the COVID-19, I took a final trip to a place that has been on my travel list for quite a long time: Hida-Furukawa. Located in the mountainous region of Gifu, this town is the real-life location of the fictional town “Itomori” in the movie Your Name.Like its fictional counterpart, it is removed from the city and has a lot of wonderful nature you can explore. In this post, I will be detailing my experience here and all of the main places captured in the movie.
Please see my photo documentary for detailed side-to-side comparisons with the anime!
The major points of interest are:
Hida-Furukawa Station (so you can see the cattle mascot Hida-gyu)
Hida City Library
Ajidokoro Furukawa (the same restaurant where the characters eat mochi)
旧落合村バス停 (the infamous bus stop)
Hie Shrine in Takayama
But there are many other museums and hot springs to see during your trip!
Traveling to Hida-Furukawa Station
I woke up at 6am and rode the shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Toyama Station which took around 2 hours but was a scenic trip. From there I switched to the Hida Limited Express and traveled 1.5 hours to reach Hida-Furukawa Station—the main location of the movie outside of Tokyo. The journey takes 3-4 hours and costs around 14,000 yen in total, but is worth it for the amount of things you can see. Even if you’re not a diehard fan of Your Name, Hida has a rustic charm that you won’t find in other places in Japan.
As soon as I got off, I was greeted by a cute cutout of Hida-gyu. Hida is famous for its beef so it would make sense that its mascot looks like this:
Dining in Hida
Since I was starving I decided to stop by a local eatery called Fab Cafe Hida. This restaurant is not in the movie, but it’s definitely worth trying because they have sweet sake chai and delicious salmon sandwiches. I came here in early April so it was still snowing a bit even though there were some cherry blossoms in bloom. I was happy to see that they had space heaters scattered throughout their cafe so I could stay warm.
A restaurant that is in the movie however is called Ajidokoro Furukawa, where the characters feast on glutinous mochi. You’ll know this place when you see it because it has posters of the movie hung up around it. The staff is extremely friendly and will give you a guestbook to look at and draw in while you wait for your food. I was amazed by all the detailed drawings that people had sketched inside. In addition to mochi, there is a lot of Japanese food here that you can order too. I’m not a huge fan of mochi, but this was exceptionally delicious. I can see why the place was featured in the movie now!
Hitting the Library and Local Shrines
One of the early scenes in the movie takes place at the Hida City Library which you can easily reach on foot from the station (almost all the major attractions I listed are within walking distance from here). It’s quite an expansive library with multiple floors, toys and reading circles for children, and a number of classic titles. This is the biggest library I have ever been to in Japan so I will always remember my experience here. It brought back the memories I had renting books as a child in the days before ebooks existed. What a time it is to be alive!
In addition to the library, you can check out the Hida Tourism Center for a free map and also stop by some of the city’s local shrines. There are three shrines that are said to bring good luck in love if you visit them: Enko-ji, Shinshu-ji, and Honkou-ji. Every January 15th there is a festival here that celebrates them. Though the festival had long ended since I arrived here, I still had a lot of fun checking them out!
One of the major shrines in the movie (called Hie pictured above) is actually in Takayama. Fortunately, Takayama is very easy to reach. From Hida-Furukawa, you can take the Takayama Line to reach Takayama Station in 30 mins for 290 yen. Hie Shrine is around a 25 min walk from the station and is free to enter (or you can take a taxi).
There’s not much else to see in central Takayama, so I would recommend coming here after you fully finish exploring Hida-Furukawa.
The Infamous Bus Stop
This bus stop is arguably the most difficult place to get to, but is totally worth it for the comparative picture. It’s literally out in the middle of nowhere—forests and a single vending machine are the only things that surround it. Only a few number of buses stop here per day making it a real challenge to get here and back (you may be waiting for hours). The nearest train station is Tsunogawa Station, but since this area is somewhat remote the trains are infrequent too. But if you come all the way out to Hida, you might as well go for the gold. I opted to pay a taxi driver 6900 ($60) for a round trip from Hida-Furukawa Station to here and fortunately he cut me a deal.
Inside the bus stop are more sketch books and posters of the movie. It’s amazing to see how many people have made it out here!
Address:旧落合村バス停 (If you show this to any taxi driver in Hida, they will know).
Other Points of Interest
While walking through Hida, be sure to look out for the Setogawa Canal! This street is lined with beautiful buildings and you can also see koi fish swimming around. It’s extremely picturesque:
There are also a number of sake distilleries you can walk in and see. I found a sculpture of a life-sized robot near one of the shrines too! It truly surprised me how much there is to see in this little town.
Though I didn’t have enough time to visit any museums, here is a list of some I’d want to visit in the future:
Traveling to Hida and Takayama was definitely a great excursion out of the city for me. I had the chance to relive some of my favorite parts of Your Name and also create my photo documentary so I will forever remember this trip. However, even if you’re not a fan of the movie you will still enjoy this area if you like exploring rural Japan. I did this entire trip in one day, but you could easily expand this into a 2-3 day trip if you stay at an onsen resort or ride the Hida express all the way to Nagoya or Osaka. The local train that runs through Gifu is considerably less expensive than the bullet train.
In my next article I will be writing about Gero Onsen which is between Hida-Furukawa and Nagoya so it makes the perfect side-trip for those who are traveling here. Please look forward to my future adventures!