Braving the Waters of Itoshima, Fukuoka (Itoshima Summer Guide Part 2)

*One of the most famous views from Itoshima’s Totoro Forest.*

Continuing from Part 1, this is Part 2 of my Itoshima Summer Guide. This part will feature scenic hikes and more recommended cafes and restaurants. The best hikes are Shiraito Waterfall and the Totoro Forest of Itoshima, which I had no idea existed until I was kindly shown by a local. It’s surreal how there are still so many people in Japan who are unfamiliar with Itoshima, because its beauty is truly unmatched. After spending three days here, I would rank it as one of my top destinations in Kyushu. I can see why locals would rather live here than in the city because you can enjoy the beach from anywhere in Itoshima.

Shiraito Waterfall

Shiraito Waterfall is one of the top attractions in Itoshima due to its natural beauty and festive surrounding atmosphere. If you come by car, the waterfall is only a short walk from the parking lot, but you can choose to hike here too. Depending on the season, you can try nagashi somen (the “flowing” soba noodles you can catch with chopsticks) in the Summer, and also see the large maple tree’s leaves here change colors in the Fall. I always appreciate seeing waterfalls in Japan because they have such brilliant colors. The best time to come here is early in the morning when no one else is around.

Address: 460-6 Shiraito, Itoshima, Fukuoka 819-1154
Admission: Free

Totoro Forest

The true name of this place is “Itoshima’s Genkai-Quasi National Park”, but it is referred to “Totoro’s Forest” by locals. Why? According to Japan Travel:

Because this portion of Shima town protrudes out of the main island and the forest’s location at the very end of this protrusion, the sea breeze hits the forest on all sides, constantly forcing the leaves of all trees found in the forest to grow into the dome shape that resembles the forest found in the famous ‘My Neighbor Totoro’ film by Studio Ghibli.

This park is great because it has a lot of beginner to intermediate level hikes that you can conquer in a short amount of time. It also has the best aerial views of Itoshima; you can see all of the way to Fukuoka Tower on a clear day. If you visit, definitely allow 1-2 hours to climb Mt. Tateishi and take the trail down to Keya Beach. Totoro’s Forest can be seen in a short amount of time and is a great place to catch some shade. Just be sure to pay attention to the signs, or better yet, find a local that will guide you!

Address: Shimakeya, Itoshima, Fukuoka 819-1335
Admission: Free

Recommended Cafes and Restaurants

My top cafe pick in Itoshima was Koko’s Cafe, which is a bakery and sweets cafe ran by a Taiwanese woman who has been living in Japan for a long time. She also has a ceramic art studio and sells pottery and glasses in her cafe shop. The menu at Koko’s changes seasonally based on what ingredients are available, but this time we were lucky to try the strawberry crepe (which was the fanciest crepe I have ever eaten in my life) and the savory peach pastry. These sweets were extremely high quality and artfully decorated so they made me quite happy.

Here are some other recommendations that are also top caliber:

For bakeries, I highly recommend Cafe de Poupee because they have delicious tiramisu croissants, soft pretzels, and affogato. Fore seasonal cakes and morning plates, Cafe Lily is one of the best breakfast places we discovered that is usually open early. If you’re going to Fukae Beach, SALUT is also a great place to stop by and eat toast and basque cheesecake. Last but not least, if you are looking for one of the best authentic Italian restaurants in Fukuoka, then please visit Time @ Ito Highland. This restaurant has the famous Napoli star-shaped pizza and other delicacies. I wished that I could try more of the menu items, but by far the margherita pizzas here were the best.

Thank you for reading my Itoshima Guide! If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments. I may write a music review later this week detailing an event I went to in Fukuoka. This trip was very refreshing and I hope to visit more of Kyushu next summer.

Braving the Waters of Itoshima, Fukuoka (Itoshima Summer Guide Part 1)

*Climbing over the rocks and to the brilliant white gate of Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine in Itoshima at sunset*.

It’s been quite a while since my last update due to my international travels, but I’m happy to be publishing a summer guide to Fukuoka’s secluded beach paradise: Itoshima. Unlike the name implies, Itoshima is not an island and is less than an hour by train from Fukuoka’s Airport. Though it is a popular destination for locals and tourists in Kyushu, there are still many people who don’t know about it. The top things to do in Itoshima are see Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine, go hiking to Shiroito Falls and the Totoro Forest, and eat delicious seafood. If you have a car or are willing to walk around, it is easy to find beaches that are almost uninhibited. I will detail all of my recommended places in this post.

The last time I went to Fukuoka was two years ago to see the Frog Temple in Ogori, and I’m happy to see that the cozy summer vibes of this city haven’t changed. This year I came to Fukuoka to attend tofubeats「NOBODY」Release Party and also visit my friend, who is a local, in Itoshima.

Though Fukuoka is generally a budget-friendly city for travelers, accommodations that aren’t guesthouses in Itoshima can sometimes be expensive, so be sure to book in advance if you are coming here. My friend graciously let me crash at her house and also drove me around to the places mentioned in this post, but please note that there are local buses in Itoshima that you can take if you don’t have wheels. Summer is usually high season for Fukuoka, so visiting before or after Obon holiday in August is recommended.

Itoshima Summer Guide

Here are my must-see places in Itoshima. I recommend spending two days here if you want to enjoy the main beaches and hikes.

Recommended Beaches

If you like Instagram-worthy spots, look no further than Odanohama Beach! Located in front of the restaurant named “Zauo” is a palm tree swing that anyone can freely swing on. This is an ideal spot for taking aesthetic photos with the backdrop of the ocean. There is also a shark head you can climb inside that pays homage to JAWS. Another interesting spot here was a fallen tree that was repurposed into a “bridge” that leads to the ocean. It’s exhilarating to walk the full length of it so you’re positioned just above the ocean’s waves; you can really feel the breeze.

Odanohama Beach was by far the most creative beach in Itoshima mostly frequented by Japanese locals, but please keep in mind there are many more secluded beaches here. If you are looking for somewhere with less people, please check out Fukae Beach. I spend two lovely mornings swimming here without virtually no one else around:

*Mornings in Fukae Beach are completely free from tourists.*

Though I didn’t visit it, my friend also recommends Fujiyoshi Beach. According to the locals, these two beaches are great for all activities you could think of, like swimming, tanning, fishing, or surfing. Next time I visit Itoshima, I would really like to try paddle boarding. It looks like it’s a great way to make new friends!

Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine

The most scenic spot of Itoshima is without a doubt Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine, which consists of a white gate in the ocean and two rocks conjoined by rope, which are sometimes referred to as the “couples rocks” or “married rocks” by visitors. These rocks are said to represent Izanagi and Izanami and their everlasting bond. This is one of the best places to watch the sunset in Itoshima. You can climb into the ocean and walk under the gate to see it up close. It was so refreshing being in the ocean and watching the happy smiles of all of the visitors here. Though many people who visit Sakurau Futamigaura wish for love, you can truly wish for anything here.

Address: 〒819-1303 Fukuoka, Itoshima, 桜井
Admission: Free

Kaisendon at Itoshima Kaisendo

Located right next to Sakurai Futamigaura Shrine is a delicious kaisendon (seafood and rice bowl) restaurant called Itoshima Kaisendo with quite an extensive menu. Being the seafood lover that I am, I ordered the most expensive bowl on the menu that is topped with gold flakes. I loved the fresh shrimp, salmon, sea urchin, and crab in this bowl but truly every piece of fish was delicious. Though I didn’t try it, you can also order Itoshima’s famous egg topping. Apparently not only the seafood, but also the eggs in Itoshima are out of this world.

Address: 2206-21 Kota, Nishi Ward, Fukuoka, 819-0203

Even though I have been to Fukuoka about four times, the beauty and aura of Itoshima really surprised me. There’s just a sense of inner peace here that you can’t easily feel in the city, After living and traveling in Japan for a while, you’ll really start to appreciate Kyushu beaches even more.

Thank you for reading Part 1 of my Itoshima Summer Guide, Part 2 will be published soon!

Exploring the Wonders of the Ghibli Bakery in Fukuoka: Lune Lapin

*Would you risk being spirited away for a taste of this bread?*

On the last day of my vacation, I decided to stop at a Ghibli-themed bakery on the outskirts of Fukuoka called Lune Lapin before flying back to Tokyo. This was yet another place that was recommend to me through my IG algorithms and it was definitely on point. Since this bakery is away from the central Hakata Canal area, it is a place that not many people may know about but it has the reputation for baking insanely delicious bread. After taking a combination local buses and trains, I arrived here at 10am on a Sunday morning when the character bread was just being taken out of the oven. As I entered the bakery I was greeted by a statue of a Laputian Robot and there also was a life-sized Totoro bus stop inside before the queue. Fortunately I arrived just in time to get a table and there was a lot of selection!

Though it was truly a tough decision on what to order, here is the bread that I chose to eat:

In my opinion, the bread filled with chocolate tasted the best! The Totoro and Jiji pieces had a lot of chocolate in them and almost tasted like freshly baked cookies so I would highly recommend them to everyone. The Catbus and Porco Rosso ones were filled with honey which wouldn’t be my first choice of filling but was also very sweet and addictive. The Calcifer one was filled with red jelly which I am not always a fan of, but it was only a small amount and the quality of bread was very high so I was able to enjoy it. I had probably consumed a lot of calories this morning, but I was going to a rave this night so I wasn’t particularly worried. This choice was 100% worth it.

The fun part about choosing the bread is each piece has a slightly different design so they are all very unique. For example, some pieces of the Totoro and Calcifer bread had their eyes and mouths open while other pieces didn’t. I liked the careful detail that went into preparing each one. Most pieces range from 200-400 yen so you can eat a lot for a small amount of money!

Here are some more photos I took of the interior decor. I was impressed with all the cells of Kiki’s Delivery Service they had hanging on the wall, plus the custom-made Laputa robots. Though this is not an official Ghibli Cafe, with all the merch they had I wouldn’t be surprised if they didn’t have some kind of connection to the studio. Their collection was extremely immense and I am excited to see it grow:

Getting to Lune Lapin

From Fukuoka’s Hakata Station, take the Kagoshima Line to Ongagawa Station. Then you can either take a taxi or ride the local bus from the front of the station to Hakusaoki and walk to the bakery. This journey takes about 1.5 hours and costs 1200-1700 yen. It is a bit far from the city center but is worth the journey in my opinion.

Address: 1 Chome-22-5 Denen, Onga, Onga District, Fukuoka 811-4343

Though the bakery is quite popular, people come and go a lot so no reservation is required. I would only recommend making a reservation if you are coming during a busy holiday or have specific bread that you wish to order. If you come in the morning there is much more selection available too!

Final Thoughts

Thank you for reading my latest article on one of the best bakeries that I’ve ever been to in Japan! In my final article in this series I will be talking about my trip to Sakurajima, a volcanic island in Kagoshima. This weekend I will be going to Kobe and Awaji so I will be starting my next article series next week. It sure feels good to be on the road and writing about my adventures again! I am excited to do a reflection post at the end of the year and look back on all of my progress. Thank you for all of your support!

A Flawless Day in Fukuoka

*Sunset at Momichi Park in Fukuoka, Japan.*

Given the nature of my project-based job plus the economic effects of the pandemic, this Golden Week I found myself with more free time than ever before. After returning to Tokyo from Okinawa and checking my work email, I learned that I had three extra days to kill before I returned to the office. Not wanting to waste this newfound vacation time, I looked at places on my travel destination list and decided that Fukuoka and Saga had the best weather so I spontaneously booked yet another plane ticket to Kyushu from Narita Airport for around 17000 yen. By this time most people had returned to Tokyo from their long holiday so tickets were slightly cheaper than they were the previous week.

I left at 8:45am and landed at FUK Airport (Fukuoka Airport’s brilliant abbreviation) at 10:50am. One of my friends texted me and told me they didn’t know anyone else who travels as much as me and it really is true. I am highly determined to make the most of my life here and explore lesser known regions of Japan so I can better understand the culture of this country. I also love the thrill of going somewhere new and trying delicious food on my journeys so I can recommend it to others. I am happy to say that this trip was another huge success! Fukuoka is a tropical city with beaches, temples, amazing hot pot, and plenty of memes. This was my sixth time going after over 2 years and fortunately there still was a lot to see!

Hedgehog Pastries for Breakfast

My first stop from the airport was a small bakery called Patisserie Pas De Deux which is uber famous for its adorable hedgehog-shaped pastries. They also make custom cakes and and cute cookies that resemble animals. The first morning that I went they were already sold out of their hedgehog pastries so the owner profusely apologized for me and asked if I wanted to reserve one the next day. I filled out a form and was able to try one the following morning as soon as the store opened. Inside of the pastry was custard cream that tasted way better than anything that you could buy in stores so it was definitely worth the wait. I also bought a hedgehog cookie because it was irresistibly cute. If you come here, be sure to arrive in the morning so you have first pick of the pastries!

Address: 2 Chome-1-38 Takamiya, Minami Ward, Fukuoka, 815-0083

FUK Coffee

The second stop on my itinerary was a local coffee shop that was geniusly named FUK Coffee. Not only is the name hilarious but the mango smoothie I had was above the average quality of smoothies that I had tried in Japan. I’ve been to Fukuoka around five times but this was the first time that I had ever seen it. But I had to admit the concept was truly original and unique. Look at these guys, capitalizing on memes! My friend who lives in Kyushu came here to meet me and ordered their latte. We were both giggling at the artistic latte art they used all day. Definitely come here for the laughs—it’s a great way to kill time and meet up with friends since it’s near Tenjin Station. This is also one of the few places in the world where you can say “FUK” and have it be non-offensive.

Address: 3 Chome-21-17 Haruyoshi, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka, 810-0003

Tochoji Temple

After our hilarious meme coffee, my friend drove me to a local temple called Tochoji in central Fukuoka. At first glance I already loved the contrast of the bright red pagoda against the city skyscrapers. Once entering the temple, you can go through a pitch black tunnel underneath large golden Buddha that will lead you to enlightenment. The journey is really fun because you lose all of your senses in the darkness, but you can hold on to the walls to guide yourself. As I emerged I was greeted with bright sunlight arising from the parting clouds, so I definitely felt the after effects! I would happily recommend this temple to all of my friends because even if you’re not religious, exploring it is quite the adventure.

Address: 2-4 Gokushomachi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka, 812-0037

Atago Shrine

After finding enlightenment, we decided to go to Atago Shrine because it has a great view of the skyline of Fukuoka. The climb to the top only took around 5 mins but there was so much to see! We took pictures of the mountains and the ocean as well as the tall city buildings that really didn’t look so big from up here. Near the shrine is a tea house that serves delicious sweets. I ordered the deluxe mochi set with macha while my friend tried their giant dango. We both couldn’t believe how delicious it was! Outside of the tea house was a forested garden that had smooth green leaves. Once again I was blown away by the architecture of the city—it really did feel limitless!

The best thing about Fukuoka is that even without a car you can take local buses around to see all of these aesthetic shrines. Everything is extremely reachable and you can relax and enjoy your day without being strict with time.

Address: 2 Chome-7-1 Atago, Nishi Ward, Fukuoka, 819-0015

Lunch at Bistro Shirokuma

Continuing the theme of animal-shaped meals, we stopped at Bistro Shirokuma for lunch. Their most famous dish is their Shirokuma Pasta which features creamy Italian carbonara topped with fluffy bear-shaped foamy cheese. It was almost a cheese overload compared to my regular diet but fortunately wasn’t too heavy on the stomach. Since I wasn’t driving, I also ordered a high ball. This restaurant was cheaper compared to ones found in central Tokyo and I was definitely taking advantage of it!

Address: 810-0023 Fukuoka, Chuo Ward, Kego, 1 Chome−15−50 アークタウン 2F

Watching the Sunset at Momichi Seaside Park

After saying goodbye to my friend who lives a bit outside of the city, I decided to spend the remainder of my evening at Momichi Seaside Park. Similar to Aoshima in Miyazaki where I traveled to a year ago, this beach is one of the best places to watch the sunset on central Kyushu Island. When I arrived there were a number of people playing volleyball and drinking on the benches near the beach. I was happy to see that even amidst the pandemic that the island culture I loved so much here was still alive. While sipping on some sparkling sake I bought at Bic Camera, I watched the sky turn vivid colors and Fukuoka Tower light up. This was truly the life. I will never grow tired of watching the sunset on the beach in Asia!

Accommodation

In my previous trips to Fukuoka I always stayed with my friends in Hakata, but since they sold their house I decided to try a city hotel with an onsen so I could fully relax This time I stayed at Candeo Hotels Fukuoka Tenjin because it was central to the city and looked like it had amazing facilities. Every time I went to the onsen I had it completely to myself so I was lucky. This hotel is also close to the bars and night club district so the location is pretty amazing too. Rooms are around 4200 yen per night, but you can find way cheaper options around. Some hostels in Fukuoka are less than 1500 yen so I would recommend looking for what suits you best because there are a lot of places to choose from.

Thank you for reading the first article in my new Kyushu series! In my next article I will talk about exploring Saga from the hit anime series Zombieland Saga! Please stay tuned for more updates.